Wheel studs (again)

[lostagain]

My bus has to be inspected because we recently moved to Alberta from BC. It is an "out of province inspection" before registration, and it is quite rigorous. The PO put on aluminum wheels and never got longer studs on the steer axle. They are flush with the outside of the nut. That was good enough for me, but not for the DOT inspector. No surprise there, but now I am looking for longer studs.
There was a thread here not long ago about this, that I cannot find, and there was a Canadian, Jim Eh maybe ? in Winnipeg, that had a source at a good price.
I will also ask at Fleet Brake, and Fort Garry Industries.
And right hand thread on both sides would be ok they tell me.
TIA.

JC

[luvrbus]

JC, if all else fails just call Luke he was about $13 bucks each not $32.00,watch them sometimes there are 2 to a package and they will try and charge you double the outfit in Vegas tried it .

[Tom Y]

I put new on mine and they where not 13 each. I searched by by size and bought from a truck supply. Good luck. 

[luvrbus]

I put new on mine and they where not 13 each. I searched by by size and bought from a truck supply. Good luck.

How long a ago you buy yours Tom now even the standard Mertior 20x305 front studs for MCI are over 12 bucks MCI wants wants $38.00 for a package of 2.Everything now is hub pilot I shopped for 2 months for mine,I got a few from Canada for less than 8 bucks ea which is what they should cost IMO      

[luvrbus]

JC, you can get the Mertior number from the Mertior site,you can buy direct from Mertior also but they want $28.00 ea.
Since I am so heavy on the front axle with 9" wide 315 tires I didn't shop for anything but US made Mertior studs after market studs were not in my plans YMMD 

[Raymond smith]

For that price I would pick up some used steel rims and switch back after inspection. Just my 2 cents worth. Raymond

[Jim Eh.]

Can't remember (oldstimers desease) which exact stud was discussed earlier but if it from a stud piloted wheel assembly (old style "BUDD" nuts w/o the attached washers) you should NOT use RH on both sides. The design was LH and RH for a reason. I believe it was due to dynamic forces would cause the nuts to loosen if the thread direction was not proper. Here is a link to a Euclid catalogue that is very good for both identifying and selecting alternative wheel studs http://truckhub.us/yahoo_site_admin/assets/docs/Euclid100DWheelAttachingPartsX-Ref.96161249.pdf
Prices may be better in MB but the freight would kill that. Although it is a good idea to replace both nuts and studs at the same time, you can get away with just the studs. 20 shouldn't break the bank.
NOTE: Make damn sure you re-torque!!! Take along proper equipment to re-torque your wheel nuts in 100 and 500 miles. If you find any coming loose on the second check then continue to check until you don't find any come loose.

[lostagain]

Clifford where in Canada did you get your studs for $8 each?

JC

[luvrbus]

Joe, found them for me but they only had 5

[lostagain]

Thanks I'll call Joe. I found the studs I have in the Euclid catalog that Jim Eh linked, but I cannot find the same only longer for alum wheels anywhere. The truck parts stores in Calgary aren't much help. I'll call Luke too tomorrow.

JC

[eagle19952]

put the nuts on a lathe..

JK.

[Jim Eh.]

Post or PM me any part# you have found and I will check here.

[lostagain]

Thank you Jim. What I have is Euclid E-5922-L and R. I need the same stud, but a bit longer at the wheel end, like another 1/4" or more so it sticks out of the nut when mounted. I don't see anything other than E-5922 in the Euclid catalog.

JC

[Dave5Cs]

JC would the wheel maker possibly have them?

[lostagain]

"Put the nuts on a lathe". I thought of that LOL. Making the nuts thinner would solve my problem...

JC