32 volts?

luvrbus · July 17, 2016, 09:01:18 PM

$1099.00 till you return the old alternator,$500 till you return the regulator is what my price sheet is showing,they maybe cheaper now Prevost does that to move old stock but there will be a core charge if you don't have the right alternator and regulator to exchange

eagle19952 · July 17, 2016, 09:14:06 PM

do you have over the road air conditioner ?
no ... you don't need, nor want the 1000$ alternator.

and you don't need exchange with freight. any reputable Alternator shop can solve you needs for under 500$.

i get mine here

http://www.arcomarine.com/xhtml/More_about_ARCO_Marine.html

Bryan · July 17, 2016, 09:25:30 PM

no I don't have over the road air... all air units are powered by generator.

I wish I could find the regulator LOL.

luvrbus · July 18, 2016, 08:04:41 AM

Quote from: Bryan on July 17, 2016, 09:25:30 PM
no I don't have over the road air... all air units are powered by generator.

I wish I could find the regulator LOL.

The regulator for the alternator in the photo is integrated in the alternator that is where you will find it.That should work if you can figure out if they have the house system and chassis system isolated from each other using the 1 alternator

Bryan · July 18, 2016, 09:13:40 AM

Ok gotcha! I have recropped the picture... Is this this regulator? And does this come with a new alternator or are these 2 separate pieces to purchase?

brmax · July 18, 2016, 09:40:46 AM

If you had time available, this looks like the 25si delco and may have to be removed after some battery disconnections.
Then taken to a local alternator rebuilder if available, hopefully. I believe it would take something like this as reference if "just" the

http://www.ebay.com/itm/B676-NOS-24-Volt-Neg-Ground-Reg-for-Delco-Alt-/261886701792?_trksid=p2352135.l4275

24v regulator problem but without more checks and tools it would be best having someone do some more checks.

eagle19952 · July 18, 2016, 10:50:49 AM

finding the regulator is not really going to help you.. I am not a good word person ..but based on what I read here...you need to find a diagnostician and bite the bullet here.

if they would ..CarQuest could analyze your situation in about five minutes......and any shop could remedy it in 30-60 minutes.

Anyone who can't identify a regulator needs to not be the one solving the problem.

I said before ...is the center axis of the alternator magnetic ?
If not and knowing you have an integral regulator...99.9999999999999999% likely you need and alternator.

BUT... have you even checked for a loose/slipping belt ?

Jon · July 18, 2016, 11:22:46 AM

Who converted the coach? From what I saw that alternator is non serviceable regarding the voltage regulator which is internal to the alternator.

Bryan · July 18, 2016, 11:54:48 AM

I wanna say "ECM"

Did the conversion

Jon · July 18, 2016, 12:04:38 PM

Never heard of that converter, but that does not matter. Without full coach AC the typical conversion uses a 50DN alternator for house purposes and goes to a smaller 145 amp alternator as show for chassis purposes. If that is the only alternator you have I admit to being surprised because that suggests whoever converted it may have planned on running a generator and keeping the coach house batteries charged via the inverters.

I seriously doubt if the house and chassis systems are merged, but are they? And then when are you seeing 32 volts? When driving or when the generator is running?

luvrbus · July 18, 2016, 01:12:02 PM

It's going to be interesting when he starts digging around I bet the 2 systems are charged with the 1 alternator how they are separated is going to be a guessing game

Bryan · July 18, 2016, 01:55:03 PM

The generator that powers the house portion of the bus has it's own alternator.

brmax · July 18, 2016, 02:23:30 PM

I hope your not stranded, if so please say so.
That alternator in the pic I'm pretty darn sure is 50 or 75 amp and just for basic charging 24v engine and the running of the bus.
I need to ask what else is using its power?
Far as buying a rebuilt one on the intranet I haven't a problem with 250.00 probably, though its the shipping and returning core that can be tough.
Do the batteries stink like acid and are they sweating or leaking from boiling over from high charge, possibly they have been hot and or have warped sides.
I would get the 17 dollar DVOM with min-max ability and hook it up to battery and verify a few times.
That's 40 + feet of wire to gauges so checking in the rear carefully is called for.

good luck

Floyd

luvrbus · July 18, 2016, 02:36:38 PM

If he has a factory motorhome shell from Prevost they used the 270 amp 50D for house battery charging and a 140 amp for the chassis. I don't know what he has but the part numbers he posted Prevost was going to sell him a 50D they used his serial number and that is what it left Canada with not the setup he has now

Oonrahnjay · July 25, 2016, 05:11:41 AM

Quote from: Bryan on July 18, 2016, 01:55:03 PMThe generator that powers the house portion of the bus has it's own alternator.

Bryan, let's be careful here. I think you're talking about the separate battery for the alternator. In that case (and if you have one, it's a good thing because it will be independent of the other batteries in the bus - if your house and start batteries are dead when you're boondocking, you can start the generator, have electricity to run "house" functions and also charge up the start batteries so you can get the engine going without a service call), there is a battery charge function in the generator assembly that keeps that one (on my bus, it's a separate small Group 29 battery - I think - about the size of a car battery, mounted right next to the generator housing itself.
Don't let this one confuse things, it's entirely on it's own and the chassis (starting) battery system and the house (camping) battery system will have nothing to do with it and it can't cause problems with the alternator or charging system on your bus engine.
HTH, BH