Rusty 1988 MCI-102c3: advice?

[aaronjweiss]

Hello everyone,

I'm brand new to the forum & a novice in the world of buses. I recently paid $4,500 for a 1988 MCI 102c3 from a quasi-dealer in New Jersey after visually inspecting it and taking it for a test drive. I only saw a bit of surface rust, it shifted smoothly, and had a lot of power (esp. compared to my previous mci-8) and what I considered an acceptable occasional burst of dark smoke, e.g,. after idling. When I brought it for PA state inspection was told it had the following issues:

*Needs plating over some rust on frame by lower torque rod in front of front axle
*Needs work on ALL brakes (some need pads, some are "lifting")
*Leak in tag axle passenger side wheel seal
*Worn upper Torque rod bushings
*Brake lights out, reverse lights and license plate lights repaired

My main concern was the rust, and have attached the pictures here. I have little frame of reference--wondering how serious this rust looks in comparison to what you all have seen...can repairs on this kind of rust really fix the problem, or would you expect this to be a serious ongoing issue? If this is manageable, any suggestions re: products or strategies to minimize future corrosion?

I'm planning to convert this coach into a tour bus/motor home, primarily for my band, and of course hope to avoid pouring too much time/money into something that's not structurally sound in the long run. Any thoughts or advice?

Thanks in advance! Aaron W.

[brmax]

Are you sure you want advice

  Aaron let me set this up a bit and if you would remember I'm on your side.
First if this inspector was your brother, trained professionally and carried this out for you prior to the licensed inspection resulting in the same. I hope you would consider this actual first pre inspection very much the same and serious.
Lets try to refer to each other that these are as I remember measurement inspections that are required minimums.

In looking at the photos you could use some qualified friends and an area for this frame work.

So its a project:
first task assessments; these photo jobs, whatever else topping the list, not minor detail.
budget from assessments: separated
task follows
frame scrape, grind, patch, weld: $
brake pad issue? is this one wheel, fine then repair that wheel and inspect and move on.
other items-

This is a first, basic professional way to look ahead, in my opinion and with added concerns pertaining to commercial and weight expectations of vehicle performance.

I know your well ahead on that stuff, just a great reminder for everyone.

Rock On!
Floyd

[eagle19952]

Are you sure you want advice

  Aaron let me set this up a bit and if you would remember I'm on your side.
First if this inspector was your brother, trained professionally and carried this out for you prior to the licensed inspection resulting in the same. I hope you would consider this actual first pre inspection very much the same and serious.
Lets try to refer to each other that these are as I remember measurement inspections that are required minimums.

In looking at the photos you could use some qualified friends and an area for this frame work.

So its a project:
first task assessments; these photo jobs, whatever else topping the list, not minor detail.
budget from assessments: separated
task follows
frame scrape, grind, patch, weld: $
brake pad issue? is this one wheel, fine then repair that wheel and inspect and move on.
other items-

This is a first, basic professional way to look ahead, in my opinion and with added concerns pertaining to commercial and weight expectations of vehicle performance.

I know your well ahead on that stuff, just a great reminder for everyone.

Rock On!
Floyd

wanna try this again in English...

[brmax]

Ok, not sure where or what ya mean Don what can I help you with exactly!
The bus is purchased, its been basically inspected, needs some work so a cost for some of these job/task needs figured. So then an area and who's doing it can get lined up.
Hope that's covering it!
If not with some "ramps" n "wrenches" its always possible

Floyd

[bobofthenorth]

wanna try this again in English...

I'd like a translation too.

That's some serious perforation. I'm sure it can be fixed but I wouldn't want to have to pay someone to do it. I think this repair is in the "if you have to ask you don't want to do it" category.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

[lostagain]

I would cut my losses now before spending anymore money on this rust bucket. Try to sell it again. Even if you scrap it, you  would be ahead. Then look for a bus that isn't rusted. You know where to look now.

JC

[lostagain]

When inspecting your next bus prospect, look for rust around all the suspension components, but also at the engine cradle and frame/supports, above the engine in the radiator and air charge cooler compartment where a lot of salty moisture corrodes everything up there. Also at the electrical panels below driver on outside, near the chassis batteries and at the back. They are susceptible to corrosion as well. Also the clearance lights get rusty. Look behind the bumper in the spare tire compartment for rust on the frame. If any of these areas have significant rust, the frame below the windshields and the windows will be rusted from the windows leaking. When looking at a bus to buy, spend a couple of hours crawling under and over it. Then go back the next day and look some more. If you are not a mechanic, pay one to inspect the drive train for you.

Good luck,

JC

[brmax]

Bob sorry what part of the post isn't clear, my motto was never give up anyhow 
But to be real clear as none other responded clearly to the post.
Its was to promote help moving forward as the purchase has been made to buy the product for penny's on the dollar of it original cost, this purchase could be made with other available personnel either hired, friends or related.
I simply meant and thought I said respectfully don't blame the wrench for pointing out items that to him or her are faults required to be noted and so take it a bit serious.
Now getting on with my intent was to start a list safely to deal with the task at hand as I did.

The follow up of my post was to put a list of these items/task needed done, as task are not Projects rather parts of a the project and in a project is a budget.

This is pretty close to the answers I believe, on a side note guys I was out sand blasting this morning and responding to the post was my first coffee and of course an excuse to have more.
After completing that I head out to see a package delivery with more parts for the pickup, them projects are done and cleaned up for the day.

steady ahead whatever the job
good day
Floyd

[kyle4501]

Aaron,
The best advice I have ever gotten concerning any purchase is to get the best you can afford - a fixer upper is gonna cost more than you think in both time & money.

That said -
What are your skills & abilities? What about your friends? (Some can do anything, others are only good at drinking your beer.    )

If you don't have the tools or skills, it may be cheaper to write this one off as the cost of higher education & start over with a better unit.


Sometimes, the hardest decision is when to stop & start over. I stopped on my Scenicruser dream & bought a Newell.  Was tough at first, but now, I am sure it was the right choice for me.

Good luck with whatever path you choose.

[gumpy]

Don't they have laws in NJ prohibiting the selling of unsafe vehicles? 

Take it back and get your money back. That bus should have never been allowed to drive off the dealer's lot with the suspension in that condition.

If the suspension is this bad, the framing in the walls are probably worse.

With a leaking wheel seal, it would not have passed a DOT inspection.

Brake work will run $1200 - $1500 per axle, if you're lucky.

Unfortunately, you should have posted this question to the board before you make the purchase. It can be fixed, but your $4500 could be a $15000 bus very quickly.

See what you can get for scrap. May be better to cut your loses now and start over.

[kyle4501]

I have the receipts where the previous owner of mine spent over $14,000 on mine for brakes & tires on his way home from purchasing it.

Big toys = big costs

[eagle19952]

.... brake blocks are $150 per axle
.....seals..outside cost 100$ per axle
rust prep....4-6 hours....cost 0$ if you do it your self
plates fabbed/sourced...couple 100$ max plasma cut etc.
plates welded...300-400$...unless you do it yourself...
miscellaneous bulbs wire and BS....$50.00

I am certain that the PA. DOT would not have said plate it if it was a scrap case...

[RJ]

I recently paid $4,500 for a 1988 MCI 102c3 from a quasi-dealer in New Jersey after visually inspecting it and taking it for a test drive.

Aaron -

I hope you didn't buy this from Luke at US Coach. . .  Can't imagine him selling one in this condition. . .

[luvrbus]

Not a bad report card on C IMO the stands are a easy repair the MCI rot there.Before you dump a bundle in it I would check the radiator,blower area,bulk head and engine cradle close
Then drill a couple of holes in the floor close to the floor and wall braces and use a camera to take a look you can buy a cheap camera from Harbor Freight that will work fine   

[TheHollands!]

Hey Aaron, Lots of good folks and good resources on here, I'm not very mechanical and have relied on lots of info here to fix up my MCI. Iv'e met you a few times over the years in another space, good luck with your project. Craig