Mini-split two heads and Transformer

brmax · July 14, 2016, 06:37:58 PM

I think that part of the topic here is a great discussion, and I would be interested in a bit more info.
Heck if one can and has room on top or even in the spare tire area if that's an option, no doubt a concern of mine for its placement.

Floyd

Oonrahnjay · July 14, 2016, 07:14:33 PM

Quote from: DoubleEagle on July 14, 2016, 01:36:30 PM... If someone has the space for them, they might work well. ...

Not in my experience. The missing and missed Sean W. once pointed out that they pull their condenser air from inside the room. So basically, what they do is cool some air and then run it through the condenser and dump it overboard. I have a small-medium unit I use in a very small bedroom and in NC heat and humidity, it can hardly keep up.
The instructions clearly show the area that's the intake for the condenser so I've been thinking about adding a reverse-nozzle with a hose that will draw condenser air from the outside.. But I kinda got my hands full with other stuff right now. BH

DoubleEagle · July 14, 2016, 07:36:38 PM

Quote from: Oonrahnjay on July 14, 2016, 07:14:33 PM
Not in my experience. The missing and missed Sean W. once pointed out that they pull their condenser air from inside the room. So basically, what they do is cool some air and then run it through the condenser and dump it overboard. I have a small-medium unit I use in a very small bedroom and in NC heat and humidity, it can hardly keep up.
The instructions clearly show the area that's the intake for the condenser so I've been thinking about adding a reverse-nozzle with a hose that will draw condenser air from the outside.. But I kinda got my hands full with other stuff right now. BH

That is good to know. It looks like their BTU ratings might not be as effective as the numbers imply. Roof-tops remain more practical at this point. It would seem that the engineers who developed them would have taken the condenser air source into account.

Oonrahnjay · July 15, 2016, 04:49:16 AM

Quote from: DoubleEagle on July 14, 2016, 07:36:38 PMThat is good to know. It looks like their BTU ratings might not be as effective as the numbers imply. Roof-tops remain more practical at this point. It would seem that the engineers who developed them would have taken the condenser air source into account.

"Make it cheaper .." It's the curse of trying to buy anything that works well. As I said, when I get that tuit, I'm going to try to rig up and outside air feed for the intake for the condenser air. As it is now, my unit's most important product is noise, followed by cool air. It is better than nothing, I guess, but I just can't say that it's very good.

robertglines1 · July 16, 2016, 06:56:31 AM

I have 3 mini-split in bus. One condenser in spare tire compartment intake thru front bumper area exit thru compartment floor to rear. One in old evap bay for orig over road air and one in condenser bay again orig over road air. both intake thru floor and exit thru side. Inverter type total elect draw 20 amp @ 120 volt Max. They put out allot of water--so plan ahead for getting it drained outside bus. 1 ea 12,000 above driver one 9000 mid ship and 9,000 in bed room. 3 is a overkill when parked but if one craps out the other two can run. This is for info only and has worked for me. I have a friend that has both of his condensers in one condenser bay set on angle with a box fan helping pull intake air in thru floor. Ben doing a fine job for 10yrs.This is much harder that the plug and play roof tops. sort of outside box.

robertglines1 · July 16, 2016, 07:01:47 AM

Most of the guys here that have done it will not speak up because of chance of misleading some one. you must pay attention to details. I use them as my primary heat source also.

tbfisher · July 16, 2016, 07:40:39 AM

Quote from: robertglines1 on July 16, 2016, 06:56:31 AM
I have 3 mini-split in bus. One condenser in spare tire compartment intake thru front bumper area exit thru compartment floor to rear. One in old evap bay for orig over road air and one in condenser bay again orig over road air. both intake thru floor and exit thru side. Inverter type total elect draw 20 amp @ 120 volt Max. They put out allot of water--so plan ahead for getting it drained outside bus. 1 ea 12,000 above driver one 9000 mid ship and 9,000 in bed room. 3 is a overkill when parked but if one craps out the other two can run. This is for info only and has worked for me. I have a friend that has both of his condensers in one condenser bay set on angle with a box fan helping pull intake air in thru floor. Ben doing a fine job for 10yrs.This is much harder that the plug and play roof tops. sort of outside box.

Thx for the info and ideas. Since I don't have the basement storage area in my 42ft Monaco that one has in a typical bus conversion, I think I need to limit my system to one condenser and three ceiling cassettes. So far I am thinking somewhere in the rear or right rear area. This makes it easier to run the refrigerant, power and control lines up the rear of the coach into the ceiling channel which runs the length of the coach. I might even fabricate some sort of bracket to mount the condenser externally on the rear of the coach just to make sure everything works well before I go further. This would allow me to use and evaluate the system without making any irreversible mods to the coach.

I really appreciate everyone's ideas especially since so many here have already "been there and done that"

luvrbus · July 16, 2016, 04:27:22 PM

Has any mini split manufacture ever approved one for mobile or rv use yet ? I have never helped with the install of one, I have only helped on the removals those things are sorta cheap made and the boards are expensive.I still maintain they should work if parked but are not going to last driving much the copper tubing is so thin on those units

tbfisher · July 16, 2016, 05:01:43 PM

Quote from: luvrbus on July 16, 2016, 04:27:22 PM
Has any mini split manufacture ever approved one for mobile or rv use yet ? I have never helped with the install one, I have only helped on the removals those things are sorta cheap made and the boards are expensive.I still maintain they should work if parked but are not going to last driving much the copper tubing is so thin on those units

Do you think that the quality of a typical RV roof unit is any better? I bet not. My thinking is that the mini-split units are now so mainstream that parts and service will be much better and more readily available than RV roof units. IMHO, it is the same with propane RV refers. They are way overpriced and perform very poorly when compared with residential refers that are readily available all over N. America. I replaced my Norcold(aka NotSoCold) 1200($2400!!!) refer with a GE residential model($700)from HD that is far superior to the NotSoCold. It was one of the best mods that I've made to my coach so far. My gut feeling is that the mini-split mod might be the same

luvrbus · July 16, 2016, 05:11:57 PM

My son in law is a HVAC contractor in Bullhead City he says all mini splits are cheaply made lol he loves them they keep his trucks and employees busy, then he does feel sorry for people that need to wait 10 days on board with temps of 110F

tbfisher · July 16, 2016, 05:22:06 PM

Quote from: luvrbus on July 16, 2016, 05:11:57 PM
My son in law is a HVAC contractor in Bullhead City he says all mini splits are cheaply made lol he loves them they keep his trucks and employees busy, then he does feel sorry for people that need to wait 10 days on board with temps of 110F

All of them? Does he have any thoughts/preferences about the best or worst?

eagle19952 · July 16, 2016, 05:28:15 PM

I am considered by some to be a little slow...i now understand...stuffing most of these suggestions in a MH is virtually impossible..
i understand your dilemma. sort of...

luvrbus · July 16, 2016, 05:44:41 PM

He said he has better luck with parts from Senville he can get most parts overnight,it's not that easy with most Chinese units Carrier (made in China) is the worst for parts he told me

DoubleEagle · July 16, 2016, 06:31:21 PM

I went through a lot of comments on Amazon by a lot of buyers of several brands as a result of this thread. One area of complaint was that the circuit boards can fail more quickly in more humid and salty air areas, and that they were relatively expensive and slow to get. There were a lot of mystery names for brand names, which suggests Chinese origin. The inverter splits are more energy efficient than conventional on/off units, but a failed circuit board can throw that way off. I don't know that being energy efficient is important in our situations because we often pay a flat rate for hookups whether we use a lot or not, and when on a generator the difference might not be greatly noticeable in fuel use, and it is not healthy to run a generator with light loads. Running off batteries might be where they would shine in comparison, but if they are a cheap product that does not last.... $:-\$

robertglines1 · July 16, 2016, 06:55:07 PM

Really do suggest the safest and most dependable are roof tops. I accept the risk of a failure. that is why I have 3 separate units. Performance is far above roof top units and noise is so much less. I hate the roof top noise is why I ventured another way. I can also do my own repair any keep repair tools and 410 with me. have not used yet. Do suggest for the non HVAC guys go the roof tops!! Make your own choices!! I have been watching for the inverter type roof tops to come to USA. Would like to try one on Andy's toter home.