Our bus is now spray foamed PHOTOS

[sledhead]

the spray foam is amazing ... the best money you can spend on a coach . only problem we have found is when it is raining cats and dogs out it is load inside
but we can put up with that for all the good it dose .

dave

[Scott & Heather]

Dave got me thinking a little bit more about cold and heat transfer through the metal studs. So I think I'm going to add one more layer of foam board to separate the wood from the metal. I was doing some research on reflectiX and I'm not very impressed by what I've been reading.


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[robertglines1]

big heat transfer thru metal ribs. Heat sensing thermal gun in full sun= 85 on foam and 135 on steel ribs. outside about 90 at time. Think  of toaster elements. Just need a thin thermal break to make big difference. Also on ceiling we used batting(quilt) over insulation with marine vinyl for ceiling= really quieten down.   Bob

[Tikvah]

I glued/screwed 3/4" boards across all my wall/ceiling studs and leveled the foam to the boards.  This gave me 3/4" more foam plus all my metal was hidden.
Then I added 1/2" plywood to the boards.

But, I wish I had thought of the camera trick...

[Jim Eh.]

Wonder if you can get a sun tan sitting in front of a monitor?

[eagle19952]

Wonder if you can get a sun tan sitting in front of a monitor?

you won't get one looking out the window in Manitoba

[zimmysurprise]

Since Gary loves his system so much, maybe we should all get them and he can network them into this website so we can change our views to what the others are seeing! Even Manitoba...

[ArtGill]

Scott and Tikvah,   How did you'll level the foam to the top of Your furring strips?  Does painters tape keep the foam from sticking to the face of the furring strips?  I plan to drape everything else with plastic drop cloths including the sides under open windows.  Any other suggestions?

Art

[Seangie]

Dave got me thinking a little bit more about cold and heat transfer through the metal studs. So I think I'm going to add one more layer of foam board to separate the wood from the metal. I was doing some research on reflectiX and I'm not very impressed by what I've been reading.


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Scott - I used reflectix between the metal and my furring strips.  It worked great.  Zero heat transfer.  Previously the wood screwed directly into the metal ribs would get very hot on a sunshiney day.  You could run your hand across the wall and it was very obvious where the ribs were.

Here is a pic showing a furring strip with the reflectix as the thermal break


What dont you like about the reflectix?

[thomasinnv]

I used reflectix between the metal and the furring strips as well and I can definitely notice a huge difference.

[Scott & Heather]

Art, we have 2lb density spray foam. It's incredibly tough stuff. Nothing like the can foam. We had to use a vibrating multi tool to shave the foam down. Or pay the foamer to do it. Heather spent about 12 hours doing this. Shanks, I have been reading more about the real science behind radiant barriers and for them to really work properly, you need an air space. I know that reflectiX works because we used it in our 9 and it made a difference. But, for direct contact with metal squished down by wood screwed to said metal, it just didn't quite prove worthy of its cost versus the thick sill seal foam rolls we bought. I can't justify the cost for almost $600 worth of reflectiX when it has the same or less r value than the sill seal foam roll. The radiant barrier part would be nice, but there's more science to this and the more you research the more you'll find that insulation and radiant barriers are a little more complex to make work than I originally thought.


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[Scott & Heather]

We installed plastic backed felt to dampen sound and provide a soft quiet surface for the interior wood to sit on. If the wood was installed against the foam, it would squeak. Now it will be acoustically quiet.


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[Tikvah]

Scott and Tikvah,   How did you'll level the foam to the top of Your furring strips?  Does painters tape keep the foam from sticking to the face of the furring strips?  I plan to drape everything else with plastic drop cloths including the sides under open windows.  Any other suggestions?

I used a 4" grinder with a wire type wheel (like heavy cable looking wires)  rather easy, but time consuming.  I didn't tape the studs but the foam will certainly stick to everything.  So be sure to protect EVERYTHING that could be touched by foam (windows, roof vents, etc).  This stuff won't clean off - ever.


I had some wires dangling here and there that I taped.  My roof vents were already installed, so I covered the wires with hose, then just trimmed the hose when we were done and had nicely protected wires.

Scott, our foam wasn't super hard.  They actually played with a couple different mixtures during our process.  They started with a hard product, but switched to a more common foam.  It would be interesting to know the pros and cons of various mixtures.  The guys who did mine didn't know what they were doing.  They really made a mess, but I worked out okay.

[Scott & Heather]

My foam guy has been actually spraying for 18 years. He used two pound density which is a very dense hard foam. The upside is that it has really good insulating qualities and it's very very strong, the downside is that it does reverberate sound probably a little bit more than a softer foam would.


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[Jim Eh.]

My foam is rock hard as well. Supposedly 2lb density. I used to spray back in the 80s and it was called 2lb back then but was much more pliable. Maybe specs have been re-written n the last 30 years.