Removing A/C condenser

[RJ]

On my MC-5C, the factory A/C has been disabled.  I know lots of busnuts use this bay for the genset, an I'd like to also, but unfortunately, my genset is 3" too wide to fit, so I've got a different idea/plan: I'd like to use the old condenser bay for the house batteries in order to free up some room in the front baggage bin.

My question is actually a request for suggestions on how to remove the condenser coil from the door it's mounted on.  A non-thorough examination makes it look like I've got to bugger up the screen a little to get to the screws holding the coil on, which I really don't want to do.

If worse comes to worse, I suppose I could use a hot wrench, but want to avoid that route if possible.

Ideas, anyone?

TIA,

RJ

[Lin]

Although we did remove the original AC components from our 5a, I don't seem to have clear memory of the condensor coil.  It could also have been different than your 5c.  Could you post some pictures of what you are looking at?

[Bill B /bus]

Block  the condenser coil to remove weight from the door. I don't remember a major problem. Just heavy.

Bill

[gumpy]

I took one out of a 9 and replaced the one in mine. I didn't have to mess up the door screen, though that was 10 years ago and I honestly don't remember how. But it wasn't bad.

Look again.

[Raymond smith]

Take it to the scrap yard. I got $300.00 for the one out of our MCI. Raymond

[TomC]

This sounds a bit weird, but since the MC-5 is 96" wide, and 102" wide is allowed, you could just build a bulge in the A/C door to mount your generator inside. Good Luck, TomC

[RJ]

This sounds a bit weird, but since the MC-5 is 96" wide, and 102" wide is allowed, you could just build a bulge in the A/C door to mount your generator inside.

Tom -

Interesting thought, problem is that there are two triangular support braces on either side of the condenser door that the exterior stainless is riveted to, as well as a fresh air duct from the side of the coach going into the HVAC blower compartment that's in the way.  My genset's already installed in the LR bay, not going to mess with it.

Take it to the scrap yard. I got $300.00 for the one out of our MCI.

Raymond -

I will, once I figure out how to get the darned thing off the door!

Block  the condenser coil to remove weight from the door. I don't remember a major problem. Just heavy.

Bill B -

Good point, I don't need any injuries from surprises!  Thanks! 

Could you post some pictures of what you are looking at?

Lin -

Will do this weekend.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions so far, keep 'em coming!

RJ

[jackhanow]

I'm a 1000 miles from my manual and I'm not sure where I hid my disc. I'll see if I can find it tomorrow.

[bevans6]

I just went out and looked at my door.  Just 7 bolts on each side, no indication I had to take the screens off or do any damage to them to get the coil off.  The holes in the door are oval, for adjustment and wiggle, and no captive bolts or any indication of clips.  I just remember it wasn't hard to take off.

Brian

[TomC]

RJ-How're Doin? Are you keeping the 6V-71? Or are you going to turbo it (with N80 injectors and an air to air intercooler could get 300hp and 900lb/ft torque). Or perhaps just pull it and replace with a 6V-92TA and HT740 (350hp and 1000lb/ft torque)? 6V-71 with N60 injectors is 210hp and 550lb/ft torque. With N65 would be 228hp and 600lb/ft torque. Not bad, but a bit slow on the hills. I am thankful my bus has a turbo. I would gotton stuck several times in the mountains. But of course, you have another lower gear than me. The V730 is like starting in second. Good Luck, TomC

[Dave5Cs]

RJ, Look in both my maintenance and parts manuals and neither one say anything about removal of it from the door except to remove any hoses and electrical wires then remove all bolts. And that was it. other than how to steam clean it. Sorry
No weird holes or problem looking areas on either. door other than  6 big 2 inch holes in lead shield on back side or it for venting.
Dave5Cs