Question about MCI windows?

LowTide · February 01, 2016, 04:04:11 AM

After a long stent away I finally recovered from a year of illness and several hospital stays and am back to getting our coach completed.

I have a question about unlocking the windows:

I am getting ready to install the inner walls over some of my windows and want to leave them unlocked so the window can be opened from the outside in case one of the windows cracks or breaks.

I figured if I drilled a small countersunk pilot hole on the bottom of the window frame (where there is no glass) and use a stainless screw that would screw through the window frame and into the body of the coach in three places which may be enough to hold the windows in place.

Does anyone have any other ideas of achieving what I am trying to accomplish?

Thanks for your help, it's greatly appreciated!
Mike

ol713 · February 01, 2016, 06:14:10 AM

HI;
Have just one suggestion, remove the windows that are not needed
and skin over the area with sheet metal. That is what I did on my
MC-7.
Good luck, Merle.

luvrbus · February 01, 2016, 06:50:44 AM

Sorry to hear about your health Mike I tried calling a few time when we were in Phoenix and was never able to reach you and wondered if you where ok or still working on the border signs in the remote areas

bevans6 · February 01, 2016, 08:17:15 AM

My MC5 has probably similar windows, hinge at the top and emergency latches at the bottom. Previous owner put walls up inside a number of windows. I figure if I ever need to get them off I will pop out the hinge pins at the top, tip them out and figure a way to trip open the latches at the bottom. Or not. Problem for another day... I would say your plan has merit, you will have to judge the structural issues and how many screws, but the windows are completely supported from the top hinge, all the bottom latch does is keep them from swinging out.

Brian

Scott & Heather · February 01, 2016, 08:41:38 AM

I am trying to sort out an answer to this question too. One thing I would take note of, is the fact that the original MCI windows are very prone to leak. So I would make sure before you skin them over on the inside that they are silicone shut or sealed permanently shut

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TomC · February 02, 2016, 03:08:01 AM

When I removed my unwanted windows, I lucked out that exactly 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood glued together filled in the window. Then just glued and screwed the aluminum sheet to the outside and the 1x2 fir strips on the inside to anchor the inside plywood. I used Peninsula Motion windows. They were custom made single pane to work in the existing window cutout. They screw in from the outside and technically are too wide since the windows protrude about an inch beyond the bus. But that gives that much more roomy feel to the inside of the bus. The windows are so tight, I have my bathroom Fantastic Fan cracked open all the time so my ears don't pop everytime someone goes in and out. Good Luck, TomC

LowTide · February 02, 2016, 11:15:00 AM

Quote from: luvrbus on February 01, 2016, 06:50:44 AM
Sorry to hear about your health Mike I tried calling a few time when we were in Phoenix and was never able to reach you and wondered if you where ok or still working on the border signs in the remote areas

Thanks Clifford. Hopefully we will be able to meet up one of these times. I am still interested in that tranny, just got waylaid for a while.

LowTide · February 02, 2016, 11:18:00 AM

Quote from: bevans6 on February 01, 2016, 08:17:15 AM
My MC5 has probably similar windows, hinge at the top and emergency latches at the bottom. Previous owner put walls up inside a number of windows. I figure if I ever need to get them off I will pop out the hinge pins at the top, tip them out and figure a way to trip open the latches at the bottom. Or not. Problem for another day... I would say your plan has merit, you will have to judge the structural issues and how many screws, but the windows are completely supported from the top hinge, all the bottom latch does is keep them from swinging out.

Brian

Brian, that seems like a good idea until you need to lock them after replacing the damaged window. Thanks for the idea

Mike

LowTide · February 02, 2016, 11:22:38 AM

Quote from: Scott Bennett on February 01, 2016, 08:41:38 AM
I am trying to sort out an answer to this question too. One thing I would take note of, is the fact that the original MCI windows are very prone to leak. So I would make sure before you skin them over on the inside that they are silicone shut or sealed permanently shut

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Scott, If I permanently shut them, how would I be able to replace a possible broken window?

From what I have been told, the entire window frame has to be removed to replace the glass. If I have misunderstood, please feel free to let me know.....I am learning

LowTide · February 02, 2016, 11:30:51 AM

Quote from: TomC on February 02, 2016, 03:08:01 AM
When I removed my unwanted windows, I lucked out that exactly 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood glued together filled in the window. Then just glued and screwed the aluminum sheet to the outside and the 1x2 fir strips on the inside to anchor the inside plywood. I used Peninsula Motion windows. They were custom made single pane to work in the existing window cutout. They screw in from the outside and technically are too wide since the windows protrude about an inch beyond the bus. But that gives that much more roomy feel to the inside of the bus. The windows are so tight, I have my bathroom Fantastic Fan cracked open all the time so my ears don't pop everytime someone goes in and out. Good Luck, TomC

As much as I would like to keep the windows that are going to be covered over, your idea is not a bad one.

I went out and did some measuring and (2) 1" pieces of plywood cut to the shape of the window....using the same scenario you mentioned above would work.

I could skin the outside with .125 aluminum. I think that thickness would not oil can on me.
I am going to call my supplier tomorrow to see if I can get a 16' piece of aluminum. It may cost a bit, but in the long run it could pay for itself by not having to replace any windows.

Thanks for the info!

Mike

LowTide · February 02, 2016, 11:31:47 AM

Thanks for the ideas everyone, I really do appreciate it!

Mike

Scott & Heather · February 02, 2016, 01:23:27 PM

Mike, call Ryerson. They just quoted me 35' long .125 aluminum 6 feet wide for both sides literally $2000 delivered. They can make it 40' if you want it

they are priced very well right now cause metal price is dropped. I'm ordering .125 aluminum sheet for our new bus.

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oldmansax · February 03, 2016, 04:07:08 AM

Mike,

If there is anyway you can swing it, replacing those windows with insulated ones is a REALLY good idea. I lived in that bus & know how cold those windows can get!

TOM

Scott & Heather · February 03, 2016, 05:28:58 AM

Mike, I didn't clarify, if you decide to cover over the windows, seal the frames really well and replace the rubber seals for the glass. They are known for leaking and many a coach had bad rust below the windows for this reason. You do not need to remove the frames to replace the glass on my 9. Just remove the pin at the top and pull it out. Maybe different for your coach?

LowTide · February 03, 2016, 10:33:51 AM

Quote from: oldmansax on February 03, 2016, 04:07:08 AM
Mike,

If there is anyway you can swing it, replacing those windows with insulated ones is a REALLY good idea. I lived in that bus & know how cold those windows can get!

TOM

Hey Tom,

That might have to wait for a bit, although it is a good idea.
I plan on heavy insulation behind the walls. The sides have been covered with reflex and 1' high density foam and I will also be adding the insulation I picked up from Clifford.....hopefully that will keep it somewhat warm or cool until we look at some new windows.

Thanks!
Mike