Door locks/air locks?

[scanzel]

On my Prevost the door is opened from the outside by pressing the air operated door release. But while camping you eventually run out of air to operate the release so then you can't lock it while away. Does someone sell a kit where I can convert the door with a lock and latch assembly like you see on rv's or trucks and get rid of the air lock. Or should I put in a suplimental air compressor to keep air for the door. I read somewhere that a converter had added a small air compressor and seperate air tank just for the door release instead of converting it over. What have the rest of you done on your doors? Thank You. Steve C.

[rip]

Steve: I have a 85 and didn't have an outside switch for the airlock,but I added one. When I built my coach I wanted a seperate air compressor so I just ran a seperate line from the air lock and it works great. I have the air compressor on a timer so it will not come on at night. Don

[H3Jim]

for now, all I did was remove the shock absorber that slows down the door.  When I run out of air it allows the door to move quite freely.  When I do run out of air, I lock the door.  When I push it closed, it locks and styas closed, it an be opend form teh inside withhte slider, or the outside with a key.
It works, although I'm not exactly happy with the way it works, but here aer so many other priorities, for now its ok.  The main downside is when it does have air, the door swings violently fast.  If I'm opening it, I press the open switch, then immediatley give it a little burst of close so it doesn't hurt itself by swiging too far too fast (or an innocent bystander). Same with closing.  

Its out of air most of the time, so the manual works fairly well.

But you are right, there must be a better way.

[Jeremy]

I have a similar problem to overcome, except in my case even with air the front door cannot be locked or even latched from the outside (the rear door can, but it obviously isn't very convenient to have to use the rear door if you're coming and going a lot on a campsite).

I cannot see myself installing either a 'house' type or a big, ugly, 'RV' handle/latch/lock assembly, so I see there being two options - either fit a neat, modern 'car' door handle / lock, or rig up a system to operate the existing air-powered door opener from outside either with a remote control or a hidden switch (and with an additional compressor to provide air).

The idea of fitting a car-type handle / lock is one that came to me after reading an article in a custom car magazine where they fitted a modern handle and lock to an old hot rod body - fitting the handle and lock assembly simply involved  cutting the whole section of sheetmetal containing door handle from the 'moden' car door, and welding it in place in the skin of the hot rod's door; the point being that on a car door the handle/lock and latch are two different assemblies connected together by metal rods, so you have great flexibility to install the handle wherever you want in the new door, and just bend up new rods as required. You can use additional connecting rods to also actuate the latch using an internal handle (again, in any location), and to activate the lock by a central-locking solenoid if you wish.

However, of the two options I think the first is still my favourite, as there is probably less work in fitting a compressor and adapting the existing door-closer to operate remotely. I also like the idea of confusing potential theives by there being no visible handle or lock or any kind on the outside of the door - and I must admit that being able to impress bystanders by being able to remotely open and close the door appeals to me too!

Jeremy

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Hi Scanzel,

This is what I used on my coach, It's made by TriMark.

http://www.trimarkcorp.com/zplatform.aspx?Hidden2=%253ca%2Bhref%253dzCategory.aspx%253fintcategoryid%253d3%2B%2Bclass%253d%2522headerWhite%2522%253e%2BProducts%2B%253c%252fa%253e%2526nbsp%253b%252f%2526nbsp%253b%253ca%2Bhref%253dzCategory.aspx%253fintcategoryid%253d11%2B%2Bclass%253d%2522headerWhite%2522%253e%2BHandles%2B%253c%252fa%253e%2526nbsp%253b%252f%2526nbsp%253b%253ca%2Bhref%253dzCategory.aspx%253fintcategoryid%253d12%2B%2Bclass%253d%2522headerWhite%2522%253e%2BPaddle%2B%253c%252fa%253e%2526nbsp%253b%252f%2526nbsp%253b&imgid=6&id=22&skuid=

I'll try and post a picture.

Nick-

[Tony LEE]

"The main downside is when it does have air, the door swings violently fast.  If I'm opening it, I press the open switch, then immediatley give it a little burst of close so it doesn't hurt itself by swiging too far too fast (or an innocent bystander). Same with closing."

I don't know your exact set up, but if the control valve has a centre off position and the door is closed (but the aircylinder is not pressured on the close side) then just putting it in the open position will apply pressure to the open side. Since there is no air on the close side that needs bleeding off through the valve and so act as a cushion, the door will swing open violently. From first start up, put the door manually in either open or closed position, and then put the control valve in the same position as the door is in.  Then it will operate in a much more controlled manner. If you have separate open/close buttons then operate the button that matches the position of the door first and let the pressure reach normal operating pressure.

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Hi Tonylee,

When I removed the air cylender from my entrance door, I fabricated brackets to mount a

hydrolic hatch cylender. This keeps the door opening at a steady rate and provides resistance

when closing the door to keep your fingers from getting caught. Theese doors are pretty heavy...

Nick-