A better plywood floor
 

A better plywood floor

Started by Darkspeed, September 21, 2015, 10:27:21 AM

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Darkspeed

So I have been doing a lot of research and getting scraps and testing them and have settled on AdvanTech waterproof plywood. Anyone use it before?

Locally it is $22 for 3/4 T&G sheet which is cheap!

My plan is to use 3/4 on the bottom then a couple inches of closed cell foam board then a 1/2 on top. > http://www.rmax.com/products/wall-products/thermasheath-3/#tabs-2

Any advice from anyone who has done a plywood foam sandwich floor?

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLD4DABC7254437F2D



something like this > http://winterfarmbus.blogspot.com/2011/01/insulation-and-sub-floor.html
4106 6V92TA MUI + V730 8" Lowered Floor & Polished > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=24673.0 QuietBox > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=29946.0
It's all math and metal...

TomC

I lucked out, my transit has 1" plywood with 1/4" rubber mat bonded to it. No additional insulation. Plywood in itself insulates well. I would stay away from a sandwich floor. If you want insulation, spray foam from underneath. Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

chessie4905

GMC h8h 649#028 (4905)
Pennsylvania-central

Iceni John

I second Tom on this.   There shouldn't be any need for additional insulation if you have an inch or more of good plywood, unless you live somewhere really really cold.   However, good is the operative word here  -  crap plywood probably won't hold up or will be so knotty as to be worthless.   FYI, I have 3/4" of marine ply, a layer of what looks like tar or bitumen, another 3/4" of marine ply, and 1/8" Armstrong rubber flooring, and it insulates just fine.   You'll also lose headroom with unnecessary floor thickness.

John
1990 Crown 2R-40N-552 (the Super II):  6V92TAC / DDEC II / Jake,  HT740.     Hecho en Chino.
2kW of tiltable solar.
Behind the Orange Curtain, SoCal.

Scott & Heather

Plytanium here. Waterproof coating on the luggage bay side and we coated thick with poly on floor side


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Scott & Heather
1984 MCI 9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise (SOLD)
1992 MCI 102C3 8v92-turbo with 8 inch roof raise CURRENT HOME
Click link for 900 photos of our 1st bus conversion:
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Darkspeed

Well part of the reason I dropped the floor in my 4106 8" is to allow more room for serious insulation ( as well as I like the feeling of the taller ceiling and I have tall relatives)

The two rear bays will be insulated the rest will be uninsulated. I have allowed for 3" of closed cell E85 icynene spray foam ceiling , walls, which will give me around R19.5

Plywood only has 0.95 R per inch on a good day so it could be a big loss of heat/cool without something isolating it especially conducting to the metal floor supports.
4106 6V92TA MUI + V730 8" Lowered Floor & Polished > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=24673.0 QuietBox > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=29946.0
It's all math and metal...

luvrbus

I sandwiched 1 inch blue board between 2- 5/8 pieces of plywood it made a lot warmer floor in Wy and Idaho,I was told it had a R value of around 9 the floors can get pretty damn cold in a bus.

The next bus had a Nuheat floor heating system I loved that gadget   
Life is short drink the good wine first

Darkspeed

Quote from: luvrbus on September 21, 2015, 12:41:05 PM
I sandwiched 1 inch blue board between 2- 5/8 pieces of plywood it made a lot warmer floor in Wy and Idaho,I was told it had a R value of around 9 the floors can get pretty damn cold in a bus.

The next bus had a Nuheat floor heating system I loved that gadget  

+++Clifford, That is what i was hoping to hear. I should be at 14 R with my current plan.
4106 6V92TA MUI + V730 8" Lowered Floor & Polished > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=24673.0 QuietBox > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=29946.0
It's all math and metal...

Jeremy

The stuff shown in those photos isn't plywood - OSB is cheap and has it's uses but I'd never use it as an alternative to proper plywood for a floor myself, except perhaps if I was just sheeting-out a domestic loft or something

Jeremy
A shameless plug for my business - visit www.magazineexchange.co.uk for back issue magazines - thousands of titles covering cars, motorbikes, aircraft, railways, boats, modelling etc. You'll find lots of interest, although not much covering American buses sadly.

chessie4905

   I would only use marine plywood.That stuff is basically flake board and moisture "resistant". Don't cheap out now with all the work you're doing. Plywood retains fasteners better also. jmo
GMC h8h 649#028 (4905)
Pennsylvania-central

luvrbus

If you sandwich I was told you need the screws long enough to go through both pieces of plywood and the foam to what ever you were attaching to that is what I did I had no squeaks and was rock solid 
Life is short drink the good wine first

belfert

I like AdvanTech.  I want some for a project, but I can't find anyone locally who seems to carry it.  I would compare weight between AdvanTech and plywood subfloor.  Plywood might be lighter.

You seem like you are totally re-engineering and rebuilding your bus.  I hope you don't end up spending 10 years on it and never get it done like some.
Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN

Darkspeed

Quote from: belfert on September 21, 2015, 03:51:10 PM
I like AdvanTech.  I want some for a project, but I can't find anyone locally who seems to carry it.  I would compare weight between AdvanTech and plywood subfloor.  Plywood might be lighter.

You seem like you are totally re-engineering and rebuilding your bus.  I hope you don't end up spending 10 years on it and never get it done like some.

These guys have it in your area> http://www.shawstewartlumberco.com/about-shaw-stewart

Regular plywood absorbs water and supports mold, no way I would use it as a floor with out several coats of sealer = too much work

Im doing my best to finish it, I am in the process of ebaying my previous lifestyle to buy materials to build the bus.
4106 6V92TA MUI + V730 8" Lowered Floor & Polished > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=24673.0 QuietBox > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=29946.0
It's all math and metal...

Jeremy

If by 'regular plywood' you mean cheap interior grade stuff then yes it does, but that's obviously not what you'd use for a floor. I don't know about the American market but here 'flooring and roofing' grade plywood is widely and commonly available and would be much better (stiffer, stronger and more durable for a given thickness) than OSB. The reason that OSB is cheap is that it's basically bits of scrap wood squashed together with glue - but lots of joins and no long fibres mean poor structural properties

Not to labour the point, but if cheap OSB was satisfactory for a bus floor then the manufacturer would fit them as standard. But they don't, they use plywood

Jeremy

A shameless plug for my business - visit www.magazineexchange.co.uk for back issue magazines - thousands of titles covering cars, motorbikes, aircraft, railways, boats, modelling etc. You'll find lots of interest, although not much covering American buses sadly.

Darkspeed

The AdvanTech is more like plywood than OSB and from what i have seen it is stiffer than plywood. I refuse to use regular OSB for anything. The AdvanTech also is formaldehyde free which i think is important for indoor use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ceFc-02r9J8
4106 6V92TA MUI + V730 8" Lowered Floor & Polished > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=24673.0 QuietBox > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=29946.0
It's all math and metal...