Need some banter on where to install propane furnace

[Scott & Heather]

Installing a propane furnace and not sure where exactly to install it. I want to be able to run it while driving down the road. Not really needing any advice on using OTR coach heat cause it's currently stripped out and not going to build a new system in the next 3 weeks before baby arrives. So the propane furnace is my project right now. Is placement important in terms of using the furnace while driving down the road? Don't want to snuff out the flame nor cause draft issues while driving at 90 mph.    Just need some help with where to install this thing. Also, need to build a small battery bank to run this thing overnight. We are boondocking at a National Park that has genset restriction from 10PM to 6AM. Can I get away with two deep cyclers to run it all night?

[leland1950]

The cover that is on the front is just that but the furnace mounts in a hole in the side of your coach, You then duct it where you want the heat to come out. This is the usual RV set up. Propane must be run to it also. Two deep cycle batteries will last all night and then some. I have four, but have had the two in the past with no problems.

[Scott & Heather]

Thanks Leland.  Good info...so the hole I have to drill on the side of the coach, is it just a small hole for the vent that I see there or a big square? I haven't picked up the furnace yet. Still trying to meet up with the seller...

[skihor]

I personally don't like the Atwoods because of the big hole you have to cut out. Suburbans you only have to drill 2 small holes. 26 K isn't much unless you are very well insulated either. I put a 40K under the kitchen cabinets because it's fairly central. I ran 2 ducts through the floor across the bays and back up to where I needed the heat, and 1 behind/under the couch, and the last one in the kitchen. You should try to keep the runs a similar length. Short runs will exhaust the most and the long runs have the least air volume. I would also use a furnace that has 4 outlets. 2 just isn't enough. Catalytic heaters, while they heat nicely, will produce a rain forest effect on your windows, and can condensate in the walls. If in below freezing temps that condensation will freeze. Then doors and windows won't open or close depending. Also get a carbon monoxide detector. It could save your life if the "heat box" cracks.   

[Scott & Heather]

Excellent info skihor! Thank you! I will not use any kind of ventless heater. Major major condensation. BTDT.


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[somewhereinusa]

Link to installation instructions
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCcQFjAAahUKEwid9cng8fPHAhWFBZIKHYN7BE8&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.atwoodmobile.com%2Fmanuals%2Ffurnaces%2FMPD%252033179%2520SP%25201.08.pdf&usg=AFQjCNF9571jB-Dp-K2N3IKVXrvWCcMcdw&sig2=Keg3easvKYKDUAl559ckmQ

[Scott & Heather]

Thank you for that link! Already been studying it


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[dbldragon]

 I also need to add a heat source to our bus (102a3) and have thought about using a fan forced lpg furnace mounted in first bay and blowing into OTR air box as my OTR heat and ac are still intact and working.Has anyone else thought of this ? Would it work or why not .

  Chuck

[lvmci]

hi Scott, I'm putting a inside propane furna e in the hanging closet, with the wiring 110 & 12V, which is right above the 3 water tanks and house batteries, a 2" vent hole, should keep everything warm & above freezing, tom, lvmci...

[Scott & Heather]

Lvmci, I think I'll plumb some air to head down into the luggage bay too for just that reason.

Chuck, I'm considering mounting the furnace in a bay too. Seems like a waste to blow that warm moist exhaust air into the open. Wondering if I can vent it into the bay to keep it warm or if I really need to vent it to outside.


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[Debo]

Hey Scott!

Something that I read while doing my research may be helpful. The exhaust air that comes out of the vents is really hot, so make sure when you mount it that the exhaust air isn't pointed at something it's going to destroy. Examples might be bay doors in the open position, air bags, etc. (I've heard of some people mounting the furnace in the bay.)

I'm thinking of mounting mine near the middle of the coach front-to-back so my duct runs are roughly equal. The unit will be under the pantry on the passenger side. I'm planning on mounting it so that the exhaust blows into the gap between the bay doors when they're in the open position outside. Hope this helps.

[sledhead]

if you are using propane the exhaust has to be vented out side

dave 

[scanzel]

Exhaust air wether it be propane,oil, gasoline or natutal gas, diesel produce carbon monoxide when burned. Do you want this when you will have a baby arouind. It MUST be exhausted to the outside. You could put a duct from the heat side into the bay to keep it warm.

[skihor]

I put 2 furnaces in our coach. The 4 duct 40K under the kitchen cabinet, and a 20K 2 duct under the rear bed. I ran 1 duct from each one to the rear bay where all of the fresh & waste tanks are. I have kept water flowing down as low as -16* F, (minus 16* F),  One of the ducts I split and ran to each side and one is near the water pump. We live in our coach full time so I had to figure something out that was simple and works. Our bus has the stock insulation, Penninsula single pane windows, and non insulated bays. Winter propane use can get a little spendy, but no more that apts. that I have lived in. In the summer we use about 6 gallons a month for water heater/cooking. Overall we go through about 350 gallons a year
Don

[Scott & Heather]

Dave and scanzel,

Help explain a couple things to me cause we've never had a propane furnace so I'm honestly coming into this uncertain.

I have used propane ventless heaters in the past in the bus. I have a CO detector and it's never gone off. Ever. That being said, the  propane through off a decent amount of moisture that inevitably found its way to our glass and made for wet window sills. We also have. 16,000 BTU 4 burner stove/oven and frequently cook all day long in the winter or fall months baking cookies, granola, etc. the thing never gets turned off...plus using burners to cook gravies etc. CO detector never even shows any levels. I know the alarms work (I have two) because I've tested them with our genset exhaust.  My propane furnace will now be drawing in outside (bay) air for combustion so we won't have oxygen level issues inside, and it will be exhausting combustion air back into the bay. I have holes in the bay for sewer and water lines that are large and not sealed so it will have plenty of air. My coach is completely sealed off from the bays. My plytanium floors were cut and laid by me with a tight fit side to side plus a urethane caulk down the side. They are tongue and groove front to back with a bead of urethane in the groove also. All plumbing was caulked and sealed tight....zero air will get from my bay into the coach. The furnace would be located in the center water bay with the exhaust pointed safely so as not to burn or melt anything, and that bay is my wet bay with the flooring stained and polyeurethaned and completely waterproof. I designed it that way so that bay could be rinsed out with a garden hose. Someone tell me if my plan is still flawed


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