Water Pump for DD S-40

[Lostranger]

I've been having to add some coolant for the past several weeks, and yesterday the water pump went south. The engine is a '99 model. I've found this pump on eBay, and I've talked with the seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/INTERNATIONAL-DT466-WATER-PUMP-DT530-1817687C92-1817687C94-1817687C95-1817687C96-/261694768661?hash=item3cee394615&vxp=mtr

Does anyone know ANY reason why this pump will not work on my engine? The seller says they've been selling them for four years without returns. The price is right, and I'm about to pull the trigger, but I covet the collective wisdom.

TIA

Jim

P.S. We were just driving cross town when the pump quit. No problem to limp back to base. Color me thankful.

[azdieselman]

I would not risk ANY aftermarket pump.

How did yours fail? You may have a much bigger job ahead.

[luvrbus]

I have bought that pump before no problems it's made in USA not a piece of made in China junk

[Lostranger]

How did yours fail? You may have a much bigger job ahead.

Sprung a leak around shaft. What bigger job might that involve?

Jim

[azdieselman]

If the bearing fails, the belt tension will cock the shaft and the impeller will machine out the rear gear housing. The housing then needs to be replaced or it will overheat at highway speeds. This is not a rare occurance and at one point they fitted the housings with a replaceable wear plate. Any time I get an overheating complaint and see a new WP, I pull it and check the housing. I almost always find damage.

[Lostranger]

Thanks, Dieselman. I'll check for that. I've not yet pulled the pump, but I did not notice play in the shaft while I removed the pulley.

Jim

[Lostranger]

So....

I left degreaser soaking while we went to supper and then got back to it. I noticed immediately that one of the bolt heads was too large: 10mm rather than 8mm. The other six came out without trouble, but the larger-head bolt loosened and then just kept spinning. It obviously has a nut on the inside. That hole was stripped during a previous water pump job, and the solution involved putting a nut on the inside.

I know little about this engine, but my impression is that everything on the end of the engine has to come off in order to get to that nut. I'd love advice on how to proceed. I'd also love to know options on fixing it correctly next time: helicoil? weld and redrill? new end plate?

Looks like the bumper has to come off to remove the balancer. Any special tools involved in this job? How many hours can I expect to spend?

On the positive side, i clamped a pair of vice grips to the shaft and did not get any play when I tried to rock it. Maybe I don't have damage to the inside of the plate. On the other hand, maybe that plate is already toast.

Thanks again for any help.

Jim

[azdieselman]

The nut is on the backside of the rear cover, Not  between the covers. Please don't pull the balancer. It can be hard to see the nut if you have a coolant filter.

[Lostranger]

Thanks for the reply, A.D. Man. I confess to confusion, however. The bolt which has a nut is the top, right one in this photo:



Actually, TinyPic, as is so often the case, rotated my photo 90 degrees left. The hole showing a bolt head SHOULD be at top right.

I see no way to get behind this thing without removing something. The coolant filter is nowhere close in this application. I'd be thrilled to not have to remove the balancer, but I need input to know exactly what needs to come off. Can you give me further instruction?

Jim

[azdieselman]

Some engines had the coolant filter mounted on the rear gear housing. Just reach around the gear housing and hold the nut.

[Lostranger]

Turns out that no nut is involved. Finally got that bolt out with vice grips and determination. I have no way to measure the bolt right now, but it appears to be 8mm by 60 mm. It obviously threaded into the housing that holds the water pump, but those threads are stripped. Surely some rethread option exists. That one hole is considerably larger than the other six. They are short and thread into the surface adjacent to the pump. The one, larger bolt is 60mm long and its threads were deep. Back when they existed. I can feel what's left of the old threads by dragging the bolt through the hole, but not enough thread is left to engage the bolt.

My engine has no place to reach behind this bolt. It threads into the large plate that covers the end of the engine.

What's the solution here? I'm stumped.

Jim

[uncle ned]

Jim they make kits to rethread holes. used many of them on aluminum heads for spark plugs.

just check at napa

uncle ned

[Lostranger]

Jim they make kits to rethread holes.

I'm familiar with Helicoil kits, but this is an unusual situation. The first 30mm or so of the hole is not threaded but is about the same diameter as the stripped threads. Maybe it's okay to cut threads the entire depth of the hole and then use a Helicoil in the bottom of the hole, but I want input from someone who is familiar with this situation.

Jim

[eagle19952]

I'm familiar with Helicoil kits, but this is an unusual situation. The first 30mm or so of the hole is not threaded but is about the same diameter as the stripped threads. Maybe it's okay to cut threads the entire depth of the hole and then use a Helicoil in the bottom of the hole, but I want input from someone who is familiar with this situation.

Jim

Maybe off here...is the bolt to short/wrong one ?

Could you find a thin rod and gauge the depth of the "hole" vs. the length of the bolt ?

[Lostranger]

Bolt in question is 8mm x 1.25 x 60mm. Appears to be stock. Original threads start about 30mm into hole. My plan is to drill and thread all the way for Helicoil but only put insert in part originally threaded. Waiting for new pump first.

Jim