Dead Roof AC. Need Advice....

OneLapper · July 10, 2015, 06:31:45 AM

The "new" Dometic Penguin LoPro died last weekend. I bought it 3 years ago as a new takeout, but it's over 5 years old because the camper it came out of was a leftover. This AC has annoyed me from the start. It's loud. It's "low" fan speed isn't low. It will ice up. It will dump freezing cold water on you every several hours. I have to keep towels under it!

I know it can be fixed, I'm sure it just lost the freon because it started cold and over an hour it stopped cooling and then the compressor shut off. Fan runs but compressor won't. I will likely fix it and sell it, or install it in my car trailer, or whatever.

I know we've all beaten this dead horse a hundred times, but I need a real solution for AC in my bus. Can anyone suggest a good quality roof unit that is quiet and reliable? Can anyone suggest a good basement AC solution? I have read everything there is to read on Mini Splits, I'm not opposed to them, just don't have the interior wall space to mount the units but have considered floor mounting the air handlers.

I'm also considering TomC's solution of using two house AC units ducting them up into the bus.

Edit: I have a 4106 and I don't like the looks of roof units, original insulation, all the OEM windows, and 70amps 120VAC diesel generator. I figure I need 30k btu at a minimum. I don't need it 70 inside when it's 100, just livable. I'm usually in the North East part of the country.

Thanks

Scott & Heather · July 10, 2015, 07:08:12 AM

I'm no expert, but two thoughts:

1. Coleman roof a/c units (Mach models) in my opinion and experience are the most reliable roof units out there. But if you don't want roof units, proceed to thought number 2:

2. If you want to try a mini split, you don't have to use the large interior unit. They make ductable units. They are smaller and you just need to create a way to duct them

if your compressor on your current broken roof unit isn't working, it might just be your capacitor. I would check that first. You can remove the shroud and swap capacitors with your other roof unit and that will immediately tell you if its the capacitor

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TomC · July 10, 2015, 07:17:59 AM

The easiest to replace, and is most effective are roof airs that are not ducted. Course, they are noisy. My converted Penguins are nearly silent from the vent.
I would suggest just getting another Penguin since you already have the ceiling fixture. On my 40ft'r, I have three Coleman's that have been great-but are noisy. Personally, I would have at least two on a 35ft'r. Good luck, TomC

OneLapper · July 10, 2015, 07:29:25 AM

Scott, I'll look into a ducted mini split. I know that Sean eventually gave up on his, but others have made them work and last.

Tom, I thought you were using a house AC unit. I really don't want to give Dometic any of my business. I can't really explain, but this unit has left a bad taste in my mouth from day one. I have an old Coleman Mach ?? that works fine. When both units are running, it's usually enough cooling in the bus except while going over the road.

TomC · July 10, 2015, 07:36:59 AM

The two 15,000btu Penguins I converted have metal fans and plastic fan shrouds. I understand (like many of the A/C's) that they have been cheapened up to have plastic fans and styrofoam fan shrouds. I don't know if there are any real quality roof airs still made. Good Luck, TomC

luvrbus · July 10, 2015, 08:28:28 AM

Mark,the mini splits still require air movement me personally I would prefer the ugly roof tops over holes and screens on the bay doors and floors.

I have a friend he didn't cut the doors he opens his doors to run the AC units to me it is can of tacky but it works for him when parked.

I would check out the package unit made for mobile homes and duct it from the floor either way you are going to lose bay space.

OneLapper · July 10, 2015, 09:15:04 AM

Quote from: luvrbus on July 10, 2015, 08:28:28 AM
Mark,the mini splits still require air movement me personally I would prefer the ugly roof tops over holes and screens on the bay doors and floors.

I have a friend he didn't cut the doors he opens his doors to run the AC units to me it is can of tacky but it works for him when parked.

I would check out the package unit made for mobile homes and duct it from the floor either way you are going to lose bay space.

Hi Clifford! Got your package, btw. Again, thank you very much!

I will look into the mobile home units. I don't mind cutting a hole or two into the bay floor, but I'm not willing to cut into the siding. I may have no choice on going with roof mounts, I just hate them.

robertglines1 · July 10, 2015, 09:40:26 AM

Inside measurement on newest 9,000 mini-split is 25 inches wide by 9 inches tall and deep. I do believe a 9,000 is equal to a 13,5 roof top or even more. My front condenser unit is behind front bumper and exits out floor. It is sitting (the bus) with bags down now about 6 inches off ground. I will not tell anyone to use them! Will however share experiences plus my friend who has a mci8 has been using them well before I tried. he is a Hvac professional Mostly heavy factory/industry. His condenser is in a bay that he added a box fan to to get adequate air flow. I use existing bus condenser bay for my condenser unit/have removed bus air. A point of intrest many cruise-air units I have seen have evaporators under couch/cabinets. Just paid 640$ delivered for a 9thousand unit ,inverter type ,heat and air,only pulls 6.5 amps @120 Volt. That about it.

luvrbus · July 10, 2015, 10:04:00 AM

That must be the evaporator measurements the condensers I see on the minis are a lot larger than that.I think the BTU's rating are all calculated the same way I have a hard time figuring out how a 9,000 btu could be more than 13,500. The btu's can be made more by a simple upgrade in the HP of the condenser motor most of the time you can add 1500 btu to 13,500 btu roof by a simple motor change

LuckyChow · July 10, 2015, 10:20:23 AM

For what it's worth, I've got a new Coleman 13,500 and an old Coleman 13,500. The old unit is a 1996 model. I've had to replace the capacitor and the fan motor on the old unit. The old unit is a little quieter than the new one. They seem to cool about the same. I don't like either one of them because they are both too noisy. These are non ducted units. If someone would make a quiet roof mount I'd pull both of them out and replace them.

luvrbus · July 10, 2015, 10:28:31 AM

Duct the units and you cannot hear them I am still a big fan of Cruise Air units if installed right

Iceni John · July 10, 2015, 11:56:09 AM

Quote from: robertglines1 on July 10, 2015, 09:40:26 AM
Just paid 640$ delivered for a 9thousand unit ,inverter type ,heat and air,only pulls 6.5 amps @120 Volt. That about it.

What make and model is it?

John

robertglines1 · July 10, 2015, 01:46:40 PM

Anything can have capacity(roof top) but lack efficiency. I have not seen a seer on a roof top. That said I have had good service from several brands of Mini-split. I look for Toshiba compressor, Inverter technology,410 refrigerant,120 volt,and seer above 15. Again do not as I do but make your own mind up. The roof top is simple install. Pretty well straight up. I wish The rv industry Air Conditioners had a more modern solution. No need for them to upgrade as demand is not there. This is for info only..Outside box. Bob

Lin · July 10, 2015, 04:26:46 PM

Rooftops are loud due to the high air volume needed to throw the air a distance in open space. Ducted Rooftops are quieter.

chessie4905 · July 10, 2015, 04:50:45 PM

Coleman just came out with a super low profile completely redesigned unit around 15k btu with or without heat pump. After reading up about it, I'm going to give it a try to replace my older 13,500 Mini Mach which has a leak. Clifford mentioned it a couple of weeks back on another post.