mci-9 eletric wiper conversion with part # - Page 3
 

mci-9 eletric wiper conversion with part #

Started by doublee, May 28, 2015, 05:41:20 AM

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biff

If you use ss acorn nuts it gives it nice look. theres a guy on you tube showing how to use delayed wiper switchs off 1980s ford trucks.lot cheaper than aftermarket and smaller to boot.if you want the delay option. ;D

doublee

the local hardware store has chrome ones that I used on the wipers I just need to remember to get 2 smaller ones.
  but that was the reason I did thread my new idlers instead of the hole and cotter pin.
well 34" looks pretty good do you know what yours sweep is?


biff

34"worked for me.have you opened up the drives side yet LOL. :o

doublee

 no I looked under the dash last night. I don't know what to think about it yet
I wasn't going to do the driver side until winter but I may start sooner
this weekend it took the driver side about 3 miles of fiddling with before it took of working
do you know if you put the r&m fiberglass front on it you can still use the fresh air duct

biff

Sence i don't know what that is.I haft to say i dont know. ??? are you going to drill and tap for grease fittings. or are the bushings you used run dry? :)if i were you ide do the drivers side now wile everything is fresh in your head.and you will be so happy when it is behind you.i think your going to be impresed with your new wipers. ;D i know i love mine. ;D

doublee

The r&m fiberglass Renaissance front end kit, no grease fittings I'm just going to use green marine grease those bushing do not need hardly any thing.
Well I bench ran it last night with the arm on and it looks way to fast in low and high but ran really smooth.  I'm going to try to install it tonight and run it at the same time as the driver side air unit to see about the speed. and as far as controls go I'm using a plc and a touch screen to run the wipes and everything else.
  this is what my drives interface program is looking like so far



doublee

well had a little problem on the first fit up. I will have to cut a 1/4 chamfer on the upper rh corner of the bracket so it will fit the radius on the cutout off the bus.
I was not able to bolt it all the way down because of that  but I did get to run them. I'm hoping that is why my stock connecting rod was rubbing a little on the inside rail of the bus, worse case I will have to make a straight connecting rod.
  the motor speed was good and had no problem running the wiper.
so the wiper motor I ran was
motor no. e-008-163
assy. no. e-006-213
those  numbers  where for a paccar and I purchased them on ebay for $35.00 + shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/Windshield-wiper-motor-assemy-Paccar-E-008-163-E-108-010-12v-Peterbilt-New-246-/221474857693?hash=item3390ee22dd&vxp=mtr

when I move the paccar sticker I found another number  14sw60-12v a search result show a early 2000ish Volvo vnl
I will modify the bracket corner and try it again tonight





doublee

well it worked. the connecting rod is close to rubbing the bus frame about a 1/16" to 1/8" in one spot a little grinding on the connecting rod will get more
and the door handle rod is about as close. if I rotate the motor down a few degrees that will get more clearance for the motor.
but that rod is leaving as soon as I get my door latch mounted anyway
  the motor arm needs to have a 1 3/4 throw with the stock pivot linkage to get you a 34" sweep

biff

Looks like you got a good handle on it.fun job just time consuming.  you got most of the enginering out of the way.so the drivers side SHOULD go smother. lol looks like your going to be under 200.00 bucks also. good job."love it when a plan comes together"lol ;D

doublee

If work wood just quit getting in the way I could play more.
  I do have the drivers side bracket done (by accident) but  we are going to be using the bus way to much in the next 6 weeks to start on it.
the drivers side acting up anyway and I don't want to make it worse and not able to leave because I broke it completely right now I just plug the hole  in the pass side
and go.
I will post the drawings for the pass side next week when I finish detailing  them.

I'll  probably  jump to my door latch, that way I can just leave the inner panel off and work on it as I have time and can leave when ever I want I just wont have a trim panel for the summer.
should I do a thread on that latch retrofit?

doublee

fuse box just showed up for my wipers/door lock. this is a neat little box fully configurable. littlelfuse   http://www.littelfuse.com/products/dc-power-distribution-modules/hard-wired-pdm/hwb60.aspx

doublee

 I got a breakdown of the factory wiper if anybody needs them