Hate them!
 

Hate them!

Started by tuccitown, May 22, 2015, 09:48:04 AM

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tuccitown

You know those straight slot screws that hold the brake drum to the hub.  :)

I finally got to the working on the brakes on the Scenic in hopes to get it usable for the summer. I have started with the drive axle and have managed to get three of the five off the passenger side. Been a slow process of spraying penetration oil and impact screw driver.

I haven't been able to get any from the drivers side off yet and it came to me that they may be reverse threaded as the lug nuts are. Does anybody know if this is the case? Does anyone know of a good method of removing these screws.

I found that the brakes are seized on the drive axle and have not operated in some time.

Thanks in advance,

Jack
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1979 GMC H8H649-053 Conversion in progress.
1955 GM PD 4501-377 Converted.
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John316

Jack,

You have probably already done this, but just in case....

When I was in your position, I found a cold chisel that fit the entire head exactly. It was TIGHT! Then I found a socket to fit over the other end, and used my impact on those suckers. I pushed really hard on the impact, so it wouldn't slip. It worked slicker then a pig in mud.

Ours were not reverse threaded. Then again, it was a 95  ;D

Have fun,

John
Sold - MCI 1995 DL3. DD S60 with a Allison B500.

luvrbus

Take a torch and blow the heads off or drill the heads off, remove the drum and you can then unscrew those suckers with little effort and you are not going to hurt the drum just watch for grease fires if using a torch
Life is short drink the good wine first

Debo

I did what John did with the cold chisel and impact gun. Mine came right off without a single hitch.
1981 MCI MC9
Detroit 8V-71N
Spicer 4-Speed Manual
Outer Banks, NC (Kitty Hawk)

lostagain

I replaced mine with the same size screw,  but with an Allen head, and lots of antiseeze, so they will be easier to remove next time. You can find them at a bolt supply type store.

JC
JC
Blackie AB
1977 MC5C, 6V92/HT740 (sold)
2007 Country Coach Magna, Cummins ISX (sold)

bevans6

Do what Clifford suggests, flame wrench is your best friend.  I've done the drill them out thing and it's a PITA.

Brian
1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
Allison MT-647
Tatamagouche, Nova Scotia

Gordie Allen

I agree! These are boogers to remove. I did as Clifford suggested. I drilled a small pilot hole to get a good center, then went to a bit that took off the rest of the flathead. I like that over the torch, because you don't wind up blowing more of the screw away than you intended. I had a couple that just would not budge with heat penetrating oil over night, whatever. I drilled them out to the ID of the threads then cleaned out the remaining thread material with a tap. To my horror, the shoes (what was left) had not touched the drums in years!
Augusta, MI
1956 4104
DD 671

eagle19952

torch....heat till they melt out. let them drip, unless you are very good with a torch, don't want to nip the drum :(
Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 N, DD, Allison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.

Jriddle

Quote from: lostagain on May 22, 2015, 11:20:47 AM
I replaced mine with the same size screw,  but with an Allen head, and lots of antiseeze, so they will be easier to remove next time. You can find them at a bolt supply type store.

JC

Why replace them?
John
John Riddle
Townsend MT
1984 MC9

lostagain

Because I had to use brute force and ignorance to remove them. Some I drilled, some I burnt.

I thought about not using any at all, as the drum is held on by the wheel studs, but those screws do  hold the drum centered on the hub before the wheel is put on.

JC
JC
Blackie AB
1977 MC5C, 6V92/HT740 (sold)
2007 Country Coach Magna, Cummins ISX (sold)

Jriddle

Quote from: lostagain on May 23, 2015, 06:14:40 AM
Because I had to use brute force and ignorance to remove them. Some I drilled, some I burnt.

I thought about not using any at all, as the drum is held on by the wheel studs, but those screws do  hold the drum centered on the hub before the wheel is put on.

JC

I'm sure they serve the purpose to keep the drum on when removing the wheel. I'm not sure they are that important for how many times I will be taking off the wheels with my RV use.

Just my thoughts
John :)
John Riddle
Townsend MT
1984 MC9

tuccitown

Thanks all!!

The torch did the trick and I have gotten all four drums off. All shoes look good, however it appears only one brake out of the four was functioning.

I would like to disassemble and clean grease and reassemble to get them working smoothly, however I can't seem to figure out how the shoes are removed. My manual doesn't seem to have the brake section in it.

What's the best way to get the shoes removed?

Thanks,

Jack
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
1979 GMC H8H649-053 Conversion in progress.
1955 GM PD 4501-377 Converted.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

eagle19952

Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 N, DD, Allison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.

eagle19952

Referring to the picture above... what i do is back the s cam off until the rollers are on the low spot.
Take your foot or a bar and pry down the lower shoe.
pull out the roller
lift the upper shoe
pull out the roller
knock out the anchors if they are closed..
that's the basics.
not exactly sure what anchors you have...could be a bent pin, knok it out with a punch if it is...Q BRAKES
the whole mess should (with a little bit of juggling) fall on the floor.

Reassembly...is a different story.
Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 N, DD, Allison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.

Jim Eh.

The return spring is a breeze with this tool.



Just insert the spring tool (bottom left in the picture) turn and poof - on or off it's a snap (figuratively speaking of course).
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Jim Eh.
1996 MC12
6V92TA / HT741D
Winnipeg, MB.