Super excited to go get my bus next week and drive across the country

[Dlsnow]

My MC7 has been in storage over the summer/fall/winter (9 mos) in Tucson
I am going to get it and drive it to NW Georgia (about 1700 miles)
I have a laundry list of things i need to take care of
-slap on a couple new tires
-charge up the batteries
-oil change
-new filters (fuel,fuel,oil)
-air filters were done before winter
-check for air leaks
-tire pressure
-air box gear oil level

I am surre when I get there I find and remember more.  Always a surprise.

I did NOT put any stabilizer or additive in the fuel tank before leaving it.  Am I in for trouble in this regard?  I know it will gel in cold weather - any issues with being left in the desert over summer?

[luvrbus]

The desert is good for fuel we don't get the bugs here

[PP]

Hey Dave, I've had major issues with the "new" gasoline corroding everything from fuel tanks to carbs on our bikes and quads. But I've never had an issue with diesel fuel so long as it doesn't have moisture or algae in it and I've never used an additive or stabilizer in it. That's based on my personal experience for what it's worth. HTH
Will

[Dlsnow]

Thanks for the info guys - fingers crossed that all goes relatively well
-cant wait to hear that 2 stroke 8v71 up and running

[digesterman]

Bet you're excited, have a safe enjoyable trip, worry about any problems after they may appear, life's to short.

[lostagain]

http://www.icbc.com/driver-licensing/Documents/drive_commercial_veh_10.pdf

This is the pre-trip inspection in British Columbia. Similar to any province or state. A good reference.

JC

[Oonrahnjay]

Hey Dave, I've had major issues with the "new" gasoline corroding everything from fuel tanks to carbs on our bikes and quads. But I've never had an issue with diesel fuel so long as it doesn't have moisture or algae in it and I've never used an additive or stabilizer in it. That's based on my personal experience for what it's worth. HTH
Will

   I live in an all-diesel family (2 TDI's, farm tractor, and the bus) and have for 10+ years.  The new ULSD has problems (poor fuel economy and lack of lubrication) but if your fuel injection hasn't worn out, it's probably OK in your vehicles.  Not nearly the disaster that the high-alcohol gasoline is.

[bevans6]

I would do about what you said.  Keys for me;

Soak charge the batteries, at least 48 hours if you have the option.  Before you charge them at all, check their resting voltage and monitor for equal charging.  In a situation like this (first use in a long time) separate 12v smart chargers are better than a single 24v charger unless you have a Vanner hooked up.

All the fluid levels.

Check the air system carefully.  Pay attention to leaks, to compressor recovery time, alarms and gauges working right.

Check the brakes.  If this bus is not known to you, I would pull personally pull off the rear wheels on one side (blocked, yada yada) and get in there to properly inspect the hoses to the inversion valve, the relay valve and the cannisters.  Mine looked OK from the outside, when I finally got up close and personal they were total rusty crap.  Check the stroke, adjust if they are manual slack adjusters, ask for help if they are automatic and out of adjustment (means they aren't working right).  Check the shoes, etc.

If you can, check the steering.  Look for movement in the drag link, the tie rod, check the kingpins for play.  This pretty much means jacking the front wheels off the ground, may not be feasible.

Check all the lights, turn signals, etc.  Wipers, windshield squirter.  Adjust your mirrors.  Set your tire pressures.

It's funny, I do this every year before I take the bus in for it's annual inspection, so that the mechanic has an easier time passing me.  What takes the most time?  getting the windshield washer to work.  I stubbornly resist swapping the air system out for a 12V pump.  Takes me a day to get it all perfect so his inspection can be done in less than an hour.

Brian

[Dlsnow]

Brian, when you say soak charge is that like a bulk (14.8v max amp) charge?
It is my bus and I had the brakes inspected just over a year ago and everything checked out and had plenty of life left on it.  I was just about to have a 12v charger placed in the batteries one at a time before I get there.


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[Iceni John]

What takes the most time?  getting the windshield washer to work.  I stubbornly resist swapping the air system out for a 12V pump.

Brian

Brian, I made that swap on my bus  -  it's not difficult to do, and the results make it worthwhile.   PM me if you want to know what I did.

John

[wg4t50]

Think read where your going after a MCI7, think they are all 24 Volt systems, mine was.
Good luck
Dave M

[bobofthenorth]

Brian, when you say soak charge is that like a bulk (14.8v max amp) charge?
It is my bus and I had the brakes inspected just over a year ago and everything checked out and had plenty of life left on it.  I was just about to have a 12v charger placed in the batteries one at a time before I get there.


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I think what he means is to leave the charger on for a "long" time - 3 or 4 days.

[bevans6]

A twelve volt charger is fine on a 24 volt system if you charge one battery at a time, just takes twice as long.  If I am charging a wet cell lead acid battery that hasn't been charged for a long time I like to charge it at about 10% - 15% of it's 20 hour discharge rate, so for a typical 8D battery that's 250 amp-hours so I would try to charge it at a maximum rate of 25 - 35 amps at 12 volts.  A smart charger will start with a bulk charge for a period of time, maybe 4 hours is typical, with a constant current and a rising voltage, that charges the battery up to 80% or so.  Next is absorption charge that is constant voltage and dropping current that can take 8 to 10  hours or more, and takes the battery to around 95% charged.  Next is float charging, at reduced voltage and very low current, that can be indefinite.  I like to leave the battery on float charge for around 12 hours to finally top off the charge.  Next, I would do an  equalize charge that is quite high voltage - 15 - 16 volts is typical for a 12 volt battery - that reduces sulfation that is typical in a battery that has been allowed to sit for a while.  You can equalize charge for 2 to 4 hours, technically you are supposed to stop after the specific gravity stops rising but who has a specific gravity tester these days?  Next you top off the battery with distilled or RO water and good to go, that battery will be as good as it's going to get.

How long it takes depends on the battery and the charger.  I used to charge my old 8D's with a 5 amp 24 volt charger, and it would sometimes take 4 days before it would decide to go into float mode.

Brian