New furnace install

[Geoff]

Geoff I would like the details of the unit you used as I am thinking that way myself but getting very little help from people up here.Webasto  head tec called me and then said get a aquahot they use our burners and hung up.

You don't need to spent the ton of money on what an Aqua-Hot system costs.  The Webasto Scholastic Series is 45k BTU, and will warm up your engine as well as the interior by adding a few heater boxes.  They primarily are used in school buses and the schematic for it is very simple.  I use a couple of Gate valves to separate the Webasto interior heat from the engine cooling system.  Plus you can use the heating system while driving down the road without the Webasto.

--Geoff
P.S.  Call Webasto back and tell them you are interested in the Scholastic Series.  There are a couple of bus parts companies on the internet that sell them at a discount, as well as eBay once in a while.
Link to manual.  Look at 5.6 to see the basic system:
http://www.newyorkbussales.com/pdfs/Webasto%20School%20Bus%20Heater%20manual.pdf

[dbldragon]

Thank Geoff  I will look into it further.
Chuck

[Geoff]

There is one on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WEBASTO-923326-SCHOLASTIC-12V-DIESEL-TRAY-KIT-/171581643642?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27f3101b7a&vxp=mtr

But I would ask if it comes with the box cover as you can put sound proofing on the inside of the cover which is nice to have.

--Geoff

[dbldragon]

 Geoff thanks for the info
Chuck

[TomC]

OK-$1695.00 on sale for the basic heater. Then there's the coolant lines, valves, at least three heat exhangers (about $150 each?), accumulator tank for hot water. So you may get by with as little as $3,000.

Let see-2-10gal electric water-$520.00. Electric block heater, $80.00. 40,000btu Suburban propane furnace-$800.00. Propane tank-$175.00. About $1,600.00. Good Luck, TomC

[wg4t50]

All kinds of ways of skinning that cat, me, when I bought the Foretravel, it came with the Aqua Hot system, I found after having the MC7 with the normal LP Gas water heater & furnace, the getting used to the Aqua Hot, was VERY easy, just the thermostat in the area you want and BINGO, ain't cheap, but oh so nice.  I like unlimited hot showers and warmth overall.
Dave M

[luvrbus]

I don't like firing the system if you need hot water to wash dishes I am installing a water heater with the system

[robertglines1]

NewBob: Keep thinking outside box.. I'm one also! I think your biggest problem will be vacuum and basically poor air flow for combustion . The typical hvac is designed to take inside unit air and war it 20 to 22 degree. The loss in your tubing plus the cool temp of your combustion air( cold air for combustion even) will not let your heat exchanger  preform to it's capability.   Old  Bob.

[Geoff]

OK-$1695.00 on sale for the basic heater. Then there's the coolant lines, valves, at least three heat exhangers (about $150 each?), accumulator tank for hot water. So you may get by with as little as $3,000.

Let see-2-10gal electric water-$520.00. Electric block heater, $80.00. 40,000btu Suburban propane furnace-$800.00. Propane tank-$175.00. About $1,600.00. Good Luck, TomC

Geoff,
That is why
I take mine to the Aqua Hot shop yearly, first, it s munted in a nearly impossble hle n front bay, I am too old & rigid to even  get to it, so am dependant on youbg fellers.  Why
I just purchased the newest model, had the Forrtravel factory install including total rewire as different control system, all including motel, fuel etc, $15,000. About like a twin airplane.
Dave M

I have found that is is cheaper to buy the parts and make your own system than buy the Aqua Hot.

--Geoff

[Newbob]

Thanks All for the replies.  My thought with the install was that if I did in fact find an issue with the make-up air I could always install an intake air duct - my thought was a 4" intake with a slow 12-volt powered fan to pull the air from inside the bus into the area around the furnace.

Here is a curious thought though for all who have an opinion on this: If "make up" air is so important - Why is there no place for it to come in? There is only the "intake" air grate around the exhaust pipe. There is no other place around the burn chamber just incidental spaces around the fans and such for the air to sneak in - no other grates or grills and I didn't see anywhere in the install manual where it said to leave space for such (although it is likely assumed it is a "typical" install in a living space.

The system is all installed but I have not fired it while hooked up yet. This afternoon I plan on firing it and seeing what kind of performance I get out of it (it is right around 0-10 degrees here lately). If it doesn't heat to satisfaction I can install the aforementioned make-up air intake duct from the bus (only 6" distance) with the intake fan if needed.

Edit - Oh, Yes, mostly used when the bus is just sitting and not running.

Your thoughts??  Did I miss anyones Q's or concerns?

- NewBob

[eagle19952]

Edit - Oh, Yes, mostly used when the bus is just sitting and not running.

Your thoughts??  Did I miss anyones Q's or concerns?

- NewBob

Then it might work.

[Newbob]

UPDATE:

Ok, So I fired the furnace last night and everything seems "normal" - if that means anything. The heat comes out hot at the wall register which is about 12 -14 inches from the wall of the furnace itself. By hot I mean you can hold your hand in front of it and it wouldn't burn or force you to pull your hand away but it would not be comfortable.

Now, the bus is about 26 feet inside and just has the normal transit windows, not insulated at all and the front door closes only loosely. No other heat was running at ten degrees or less outside but the bus came up to temperature of about 60 degrees on the rear portion (where the heat register is) in about 15-30 minutes somewhere. (I was bust running in and out also to check the function and temperature of the housing "utility box" behind the bus. After that time the temp didn't seem to come up much more so after about an hour I started the bus and ran the front heater which doesn't blow very hot until the bus is run down the road a bit and the temp gets over 180 degrees. But the cabin was comfy and I imagine would get hot enough to have to dial it down while running down the road.

Does anyone know of and have experience with a T-stat that goes down to 30 -40 degrees or so? Id like to keep the bus warmed a little on some frigid nights but most T-stats I know of start around 50 degrees. I'll look to see if the electronic ones go down that low but would like to hear from someone who does this.

I will likely run some more tests then perhaps ad an intake air duct to the setup to see if it helps - I hate to cut another hole in the bus if I don't have to though 

[eagle19952]

UPDATE:

Does anyone know of and have experience with a T-stat that goes down to 30 -40 degrees or so? Id like to keep the bus warmed a little on some frigid nights but most T-stats I know of start around 50 degrees. I'll look to see if the electronic ones go down that low but would like to hear from someone who does this.

Paste and search this at Amazon.com ... Honeywell Manual 4 Wire Premium Baseboard/Line Volt Thermostat(YCT410B1000/U)
........................................................ Honeywell CT50K1028/E Low Temperature / Garage Non-Programmable Thermostat

were you looking for line voltage or low voltage.... ??
http://www.icmcontrols.com/Frost-Sentry-Garage-Thermostat-for-singlestage-heating-systems-Battery-operated-35F-to-75F-Vertical-design-Prodview.html

or search further for " garage, farm or greenhouse thermostat " garage nets the best/most results 

[Newbob]

Cool - Thanks!

[uncle ned]

Newbob

I live in the mountains of NC  on my bus i use a bunch of 100 watt light bulbs and one heat lamp.
bought up a lot of 100 watt bulbs when the gov. tried to make us use the new florescent that do not work when it gets cold.
0 degrees

I do not winterize the bus because it gets used a lot in the winter.

the only thing is it has to stay plugged up all the time.

uncle ned