Towing with bus

[luvrbus]

It doesn't take much of a hitch for a stock 4104 with a inline 6-71

[RJ]

Is this Trailer Toad system available for the 4104...?

Dave -

As an analogy, think of the Trailer Toad as a tow-dolly for trailers, not cars.

It can be hooked to ANY vehicle with a receiver-style hitch assembly.  If you watch the videos, it shows the unit hooked to several different types of vehicles.

You hitch the Trailer Toad to the tow vehicle, then hook the trailer to the Trailer Toad, preferably with an equalizer hitch bar, which transfers more of the trailer's tongue weight onto the Trailer Toad - NOT the tow vehicle.

IMHO, a great product!

FWIW & HTH. . .

[tjtheman007]

I'm really curious of this magical hitch setup as well. Anyway at all have pictures of this???

I am very interested too in order to help disperse weight on my Scenicruiser.

Thanks!!
TJ

[RJ]

I'm really curious of this magical hitch setup as well. Anyway at all have pictures of this???

TJ -

Click on the link below for more information on this magical hitch setup:

http://www.trailertoad.com/index.html

There are pictures and videos on their website, along with pricing information.

FWIW & HTH. . .

[chessie4905]

   Hmmm.. seven axles.. that should be costly on a turnpike or bridge that regulate tolls by number of axles for the vehicle/trailer combo in pic.. Otherwise, looks like a solution for people that want to carry large loads with a coach.

[OneLapper]

Wait wait!  Don't write up the obituary yet!  I'm here!  lol

Yes my hitch is still attached to my 4106 and it still hauls my car trailer around with zero issues for the last 8 years.  

I'll search for the link.  I think the pictures are still uploaded......



The above picture shows 99% of it.  The hitch actually pushes up on the engine cradle, enough to deflect the receiver about an inch.   The receiver tube has a solid 2x2 steel center that 4-5 feet long and goes through the middle of the round 8" diameter 1/4" wall tube that goes from side to side.

Oh yeah, I found them.  They're still online.






These pictures pretty much sum it up.  All the push/pull is off the engine cradle, the receiver tube is pushing up the engine cradle by some unknown amount of force to counter the downward dynamic force and tongue weight.  I do use a weight distribution hitch, and as little tongue weight as possible without affecting the way the trailer tows.

It works, it's heavy duty, and I was told it couldn't be done.  And you know, it wasn't even expensive.  I got almost all the metal from a recycler.

Mark

[tjtheman007]

Mark, This is awesome!!!

(yeah... I know... I'm like a year+ Late on responding, but this still helps greatly!!!)
I started my masters shortly after starting to dialog here, and since then, I have had almost no time to work on the bus... plenty to think about it though when procrastinating homework, but none to actually spend working on it.

Thanks again!

TJ

[Debo]

I love it when someone elegantly does what can't be done. Nice job Mark.

[OneLapper]

Glad you finally replied!  Better late than never.

I got some hard core flaming when I asked the "trailer" question for the GMs years and years ago on this forum.  Most of those members have moved on so it's been a bit friendlier to newbies than it used to be.  I was told it couldn't be done, what was I thinking, I'll ruin my bus, kill innocent bystanders when it splits in two pieces, etc etc.  I think the consensus is finally swinging the other way on towing with GMs.  It can be done, but it's got to be done correctly.

Using the suspension sub frame seemed like efficient solution.  The only real issue is the draw bar prevents the oil pan from being dropped easily and the cross tube makes removing the starter a bit more difficult.  You can't get up into the starter access from under the bus now, so replacing the starter requires access from the inside rear of the bus.

It wasn't that difficult to make, cost about $200 in materials plus about $50 for a machine shop to precisely drill the holes in the end plates. 

[bevans6]

That is a hitch and a half, I like it.  I would compare it to a very heavy duty receiver with a 4 foot extension to get it back behind the engine.  Combined with the appropriate weight distributing hitch you will have quite low static tongue weight, and the transient forces will be well supported.  I studied the mechanics of this when I was towing an 8K lbs trailer behind my pickup with a 2 foot hitch extension.  About the only thing I would have done differently is make the extension of 3" square tube, probably 1/4" wall, which would be lighter and stiffer than a solid 2" bar (off the top of my head, I did not do the math).

Brian