Temporary driver bus heat in a 4107

daddyoften · November 13, 2014, 06:14:55 AM

Hello, I realize this may be a shot in the dark but I got to do what I got to do

We still haven't been able to pick up our bus for one reason or another yet. It's about 3.5 hours away and winter now has set in, in fact we are the coldest place in the US as of the last few days, we had -37 windchill's last night!!!!!!

So anyways.... our bus is a 4107 that was already gutted and started on a conversion. It's drive-able but obviously some things don't work, one of which is the drivers heater fan. I don't completely understand the stock setup as of yet and will learn more once we get it and are able to work on it but I'm at a disadvantage due to it's distance from us. I know the "bus" part of the heating and a/c were removed from the compartment under the bus. I did see coolant lines running to the front of the bus and the dash was still in tack. But the fan switch for the dash didn't work. At the time we had planned to pick it up while it was still warm so I didn't mess with it. Now I will need to at least try to do something without much time when we pick it up. I'm going to study the wiring diagram and see if I can figure out the wires for the fan and try to just rig up power for the drive home. Is there a valve somewhere that is either cable run or servo motor to allow heat to flow through these coolant lines to the front? I think I will clamp a tarp to the roof ribs just behind the driver to help keep any heat up with me. Any help would be great. We are looking at the extended weather forecast and trying to find a day to go down there, load up the many parts and pieces the PO has for us, temp fix the heater and get it home!

Thank you,
Eric

lostagain · November 13, 2014, 07:21:58 AM

Wait until the weather warms up some. The front of a bus around the driver is very cold at the best of times. I would use one or two portable propane radiant heaters. There is enough drafts as you are driving for oxygen for the heaters. You might have to bypass the tip-over safety switch so they don't quit with the rocking of the bus. How about defrosting the windshield? Can you rig up a 12V fan on the dash?

More important is whether the bus is in good enough shape to be driven in winter conditions!! Tires, brakes. Is there an air dryer with electric heat? If not, can you put alcohol in the air brake system?

JC

solodon · November 13, 2014, 07:25:47 AM

When I removed the OTR heat and a/c, I shut off the water to the front at the engine. I've yet to seal the coolant lines for the OTR heat off. As such there would be no heat to the driver. Check with the PO about if the driver system is in the coolant loop. If not, fixing the fan will give you nothing. I have a MC9 and the system may be different but just wanted to pass that along.

daddyoften · November 13, 2014, 08:27:50 AM

Thank you for the ideas. Around here waiting for warmer weather means waiting until May! Last year we didn't see 60 deg F until may again. I don't want it to sit for that long. The tires are very good, brakes are new, not sure on the dryer.... Good point. I think over all it's ok to drive the distance. I am just worried about ME! lol.

Good point on the heater hoses being capped off, unfortunately the PO just passed away a week ago. I've been working with his son and grandson but I don't know if they will know about the heater hoses or not. I will try to ask.
Eric

Utahclaimjumper · November 13, 2014, 08:39:50 AM

If it hasent been removed, your 07 will have a faucet type valve at the engine and at the front heat exchanger to shut off the water to the front area.>>>Dan

luvrbus · November 13, 2014, 09:19:48 AM

LOL I would have some type backup heat in those temperatures with just the drivers heat and defroster with the engine struggling to reach operating temperatures you will freeze your a** off

digesterman · November 13, 2014, 10:07:55 AM

I am thinking I would be using a big space heater, propane using a temp inverter if need be

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gumpy · November 13, 2014, 10:15:13 AM

You live in Wyoming, although we still don't know exactly where and apparently we don't know where the bus is located, either.

If you're a native, it's not a problem. If your a transplant, then just do what the natives do and put on a couple more layers of clothes! You'll be fine.
Even if the driver's heat is functional, which I doubt, the best you can hope for is to keep the windshield clear of frost. The term "driver's heat" was
more of a cruel joke than a truthful statement.

Pick up a small inverter and wire that into your bus electrical. Get yourself an electric blanket and wrap around you.

Get yourself an electric motorcycle suit. You can get pants, jacket or vest, and gloves. They plug into 12v. I think you can even get 12v socks, too!
We use the electric vest and are able to ride down into the mid 30's with not a lot of discomfort. If you had the whole suit, you'd be toasty warm
in that bus with no air blowing on you.

mung · November 13, 2014, 10:17:32 AM

Battery operated socks? Hunting hand warmers? Basically anything you can use for survival outside would work.

mung · November 13, 2014, 10:19:19 AM

Here is another thought. A full winter diving suit, you will sweat in that if you even have a little heat.

MightyThor · November 13, 2014, 01:27:00 PM

I assume that the 4107 is similar to the buses I have, with the front heat exchanger up between the headlights. With the bus running you certainly could feel the panel around the exchanger to see if it is heating up. Mine will start to get warm within 3 minutes of starting the engine. If you have heat then you just have to get power to the blower motors. They should be easy to identify at the bottom of the exchanger box. You can build a temporary system that has a switch and hook it to the positive wire leading to the motors. If they work the temp system will turn them on or off. You can worry about multi speed later. If the motors don't work your gonna have to replace them or use an alternative heat system. There are 12 volt systems available that you can plug into a lighter socket that will blow hot air on the widow. JC whitney used to sell them and probably still does. If you have not heat in the front you will certainly have to do something about keeping the windows clear, You could do that by keeping the inside the same temp and humidity as the outside, but you will likely be less comfortable.

luvrbus · November 13, 2014, 01:35:53 PM

At -37 he may need some anti gels in the fuel that would suck setting on the side of the road even in 15 degree weather with a empty shell bus

one of you sharp math guys what would be the wind chill at 20 degrees driving at 50 mph be ? cold I bet

gumpy · November 13, 2014, 02:51:47 PM

Quote from: luvrbus on November 13, 2014, 01:35:53 PM
At -37 he may need some anti gels in the fuel that would suck setting on the side of the road even in 15 degree weather with a empty shell bus one of you sharp math guys what would be the wind chill at 20 degrees driving at 50 mph be ? cold I bet

Brisk.

sledhead · November 13, 2014, 03:07:39 PM

A good snowmobile suit , boots , gloves will keep you warm for hours . The big problem is air movement to keep the windows clear ? I think a propane heater may make it worse as to much humidity off the heater .If you can try to use the bus heat if at all possible to keep the windows clear . The old v w beetle owners would have a ice scraper to keep the front window clear with no heat at all. Just scrap off the frost as it forms on the window .

dave

skytrends · November 13, 2014, 04:12:53 PM

Just be very careful with those wind chill temps. Last winter my wife and I were near Murdo, SD with minus 50 wind chill temps and my truck (18 wheeler) fuel turned to gel and left us stranded. It had Howels anti gel in it but, still quit! Called a wrecker and it arrived about 45 min's later. If it would have taken another 1/2 hour I don't think we would have made it! We had a bunch of clothes on, our coats ,under a conforter and sleeping bag. Still shivering to beat the band! Cost $750 to have it towed 9 miles and another $475 to put it in a shop to warm it up and change fuel filters. By the the way, Power Service additive in the white bottle works best. No#1 Diesel is the best straight fuel to use but, it's costly and you will lose some HP and mileage.