run-up blocks

[mung]

I am going to be building my run-up blocks tomorrow so I can start working on the airbags and brake chambers. 

So am I better with 8x8 railroad ties, I figure two wide by two high would give me 16" wide by 16" high for the fronts.  Or am I better with something like 2x12's stacked on end?

The local 84 lumber claims to have used railroad ties cheap, if there are any left. 

[Dave5Cs]

You won't be able to drive it up on 16" high. Measure your height to the lowest point and subtract an inch. 16" wide is good but ties should be in really good shape. Lot of guys use Hardwood. That is a lot of weight sitting above your head which can pop like a grape if it doesn't work. I did mine out of 5 2x8 on edge. Glued them and screwed them. Then drilled holes all the way through them and put in all threads with big washers and nuts on each end. 40 inches long and 0 to 8" at top which flattens out for 12 inches. They are 4 years old and are just starting to show where and glue is letting loose.

[mung]

I have both 2x8 and 4x8 that I have been using to put under the bus to keep it level, so I can reuse that and make the ramps from it.  Got to see if I can get away with anymore lift than that though.

[Ed Hackenbruch]

I use 3 4x4s bolted together. Made a couple of different length sets so that i could stack one on the other to get more height if needed but have never had to do that. 

[wg4t50]

made my ramps 8" high 18" wide with ramp 24" long and a 12" flat on  top all welded 3/8 X 1.5  angle and 1/4" diamond plate, very sold, about 115 lb each.
then made blocks for when jacketed up to keep from the extra space needled sonetimes and keep off  me when open air system. was caught once, buddy connected the air to get it off  me.
Dave M

[mung]

Yeah, so I think I will use my existing wood first and see what I can craft up. 

[chessie4905]

   I would not risk with anything as narrow as 8 inches. If ground is soft on one side, one could flip over a short time and maybe while you are under it. I wouldn't use less than 2x12's, which is only 11 1/4 inches or two railroad ties side by side and bolts. Spend some money to do this right so it is good and secure. Make sure you have stops at end. Also consider on soft ground that beginning of slopped end could flip up as coach gets to end of top of ramp. What if it rains a lot after up on the ramps. Could ground soften and cause a problem. Just some thoughts.
   Years ago, I had 4 ramps made from timbers cut by a sawmill. 12x12x 81/2ft oak. Cut a taper on them and used to raise my Brill to work on it on asphalt driveway Didn't put stops on ends and got too much momentum getting up on them and went off ends. Coach dropped like a brick and slightly bounced a few times. Fortunately, nothing was damaged. Immediately installed stops. 10 or 12 foot would have been easier to get up on them, but it was as long as the mill cut. Their business was making railroad ties. Even at that length, they were pretty heavy, especially when still green.

[TomC]

I used 2x10's stacked 4 high. Started with 96, 84, 72, 60 long mainly to facilitate my tandem drives. Made the front with 48, 36, 24, 12 long. Long ones are heavy, but easy to move with a 2 wheel dolly. Good Luck, TomC

[mung]

I wasn't going to make them 8" wide, 16" for the fronts is what I was thinking.  I am talking about stacking the 4x8s on end and bolting 4 of them together.  Yes going to put stops on them.  As for the length, well at only 8" tall, I shouldn't need a ton of length for that to be at less than a 45 degree angle.  Everything is going to depend on how much room I have fully aired up as to how high I can make them.  Although if I start with 8" and determine that I can get away with more, I can always add a longer section to the bottom of them.

[brmax]

If you can find quality ties, it would be good in my opinion. I have made some like you mention with 2x10x60 and 10"wide as great ideas were recommended to me also. My 4 work great for concrete and I have planed to get some shortys for tag axle.
I am going to say quality timbers as you mention will be cheaper and as good or better and  get the nylon loc nuts and washers imo. I will no doubt need some plain 2x10 for leveling and such, as heavy as these I made are have are only considered keeping 2 in the bus.
Just for good mention I did see some where a tandem wide ramp but do believe 12 hi and was also a key in my build.

[mung]

I like them.  The only concern I would have is the bolt ends sticking out.  If I were to run off the side it would surely puncture a tire. 

I think I might get some 2x10s or 2x12s and make them like you did.

[Dave5Cs]

Those are nice but I would use Nyloc nuts on ends and then cut the bolt off and grind down flush to nut. Also would use Red thread locker on them.

[brmax]

I did rework the one side with nylocs and welded the other side, they seem pretty stable. You see though not solid so that would need consideration or mods on soil.

[pvcces]

We have used a set of six 2x8, five feet long, glued and bolted, set on edge for ten years. They have an 18" long level end and are bolted together. This means that we have 7 1/2" of height and that is spread over a little less than 4 feet.

This setup is strong and safe, and is easily used to level the coach or any other vehicle. They go under the coach or under a car just about as easily. They weight about 50 lbs. When greasing the coach, I use one for each front tire or both on one side for the rear tires.

They ride in a bay, so we always have them.

For what it's worth.
Tom Caffrey

[mung]

My pad is milled asphalt and has compressed where the tires are sitting so I know exactly where the ramps need to go and the small depression should keep the ramps from sliding. 

My goal is to have enough rise that I can comfortably get the body blocks in place and get a jack under there.  It would be nice if I had enough room to do the rear brake chamber work without having to jack it up as well.