Temporary blocking for camping 4104

mung · September 23, 2014, 05:48:25 AM

My parts from Luke came in yesterday and that is all great; however, we are in the middle of a monsoon and I don't think that I am going to be able to do the things I need to do in order to drive the bus to get the bags installed and valves checked out and with work I don't have time to attempt them myself this week. The problem is that we want to take her on a short camping trip this weekend and when the air leaks out of the front bags, the bus leans to the right. What would be the best temporary blocking that I can use at the camp site to keep the bus level? Or is there a quick and easy way to dump all of the air from the rear when I get there?

Honestly, I would really like to have independent control of the bags so that I can hit a switch and lower it when camping. The only thing I have seen is really expensive low rider stuff, I have to believe that there is a much easier way to do this. It is going to pump up on it's own, so all I really need is a solenoid that will allow me to bleed air out of the line via a switch.

Thanks,
Vern

Newbob · September 23, 2014, 06:37:30 AM

I was wondering the same thing - cant I just put an isolation valve in and a solenoid and control the front and rear bags separately??

Anyone?

Beuller?

Anyone?

John316 · September 23, 2014, 06:51:39 AM

Vern,

To answer your question, yes you can block your bus. Ours has jack points a little ways from the outside edge. Not a big deal to do. If you have a little bottle jack, that would make it easy.

Cheers,

John

mung · September 23, 2014, 06:53:13 AM

So would http://www.grainger.com/product/2G485?cm_sp=HIO-_-HIDP-_-BTM_V2V&cm_vc=IDPBVZ12&zoneId=IDPBTZ12 work?

Put a T in between the leveling valve and the bags, put this off of the T and wire it to a switch.

Anyone know what size the lines are and where the best place to attach the T would be?

mung · September 23, 2014, 07:26:04 AM

According to the manual the max pressure of the bags is 75psi so this should work right?

http://www.grainger.com/product/6JJ52?cm_sp=HIO-_-HIDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ13&zoneId=IDPRRZ13

Cheaper and my local one has it in stock.

4104SoFl · September 23, 2014, 07:35:17 AM

Did you get the bus in Salt Springs?

mung · September 23, 2014, 07:38:58 AM

Nope. Too much going on with my bus to deal with getting another one. Not sure if anyone got it yet or not. I sure would like the windows frames out of it though. I want to be able to assemble my windows first, then swap them.

TomC · September 23, 2014, 07:47:34 AM

My transit has basically the same air suspension system as you do. I made my own leveling system while also keeping the automatic in place system. At each air leveling valve I used one normally open valve, and two normally closed valves. The normally open valve is plumbed in between the automatic leveling valve and the air bag. This is used to close the system to the automatic valve. Then between the normally open valve and the air bag, T'd in the two normally closed valves-one to add air the other to exhaust air. Used Red Cap U.S. made 12vdc continuous rated solenoids. Made three-one for each air bag. They have been 100% reliable for the over 20 years that they've been in the bus. It is so nice to come into a camp site, just level with the air bags, and done in a few seconds. Good Luck, TomC

mung · September 23, 2014, 07:58:09 AM

Yep. I think I am going to try it. I am going to start with just being able to let the air out, but may add the ability to add air later.

Does anyone know the thread size on a 4104? 1/8" or 1/4"?

eagle19952 · September 23, 2014, 08:19:31 AM

get 1/8" valves and 1/4" bushings

mung · September 23, 2014, 08:43:55 AM

Got two 1/8" valves, have to order the other one for the front but it can be here tomorrow.

These are 3 way valves, so I don't need the T. I just have to figure out the best place to tap them into the line and decide if it is worth running the switches all of the way up front of if I should put them in the electrical compartment in the back. I guess I can start with them in the back and run a second set inside if I determine I need them.

MightyThor · September 23, 2014, 02:59:22 PM

On my scenic I have cut 4X4 blocks that I put next to each air bag in the rear, and one each in the front and when the air bleeds off the bus sets down on the blocks. This keeps the bus off the bags but still near ride height so I can work on stuff. I will also block the body as needed. On my bus, If I dump the air tanks the air bags go down too. If I want to adjust the bus level while parked I could put different length blocks in the spots to change the height at each location.

mung · September 23, 2014, 03:18:47 PM

If it keeps raining like this, the bus will be floating.

But anyway, does anyone know the specs of the lines going from the valves to the bags on a 4104? Are they metal tubes that can be cut and have ends put on with a flanger? I would love to look at my bus, but if I lay down on the driveway, I might drown.

eagle19952 · September 23, 2014, 03:51:43 PM

Quote from: mung on September 23, 2014, 03:18:47 PM
If it keeps raining like this, the bus will be floating.

But anyway, does anyone know the specs of the lines going from the valves to the bags on a 4104? Are they metal tubes that can be cut and have ends put on with a flanger? I would love to look at my bus, but if I lay down on the driveway, I might drown.

I seriously doubt that they are flared with hand held tools....

bevans6 · September 23, 2014, 04:19:54 PM

For overnight camping just get a stack of 2X4 blocks and stack them up under the bus chassis jack point. It will be fine, just make sure it has to settle a bit so that when you air it up to leave it raises up off the blocks. I wouldn't get under a bus on a stack of 2x4's, but I would sleep in one...

In a lot of camp sites you can do some leveling by digging some judicious holes for tires to sit in, couple of inches is easy...

Brian