5A secondary solenoid ??

lou432 · September 07, 2014, 01:47:18 PM

if a moderator needs to move this to one of my existing threads please do . I did a search I want to ask a question on an old thread but it advised me to start a new one. The bus is in Florida still getting some things done to it .it needed a new reversesolenoid according to them .. it was replaced at $260 and now they tell me that the secondary reverse solenoid is bad and needs replaced at $1300?? is there a secondary reverse solenoid? Or would it just be an adjustment on the part of the solenoid hat attachees to the transmission as i read on another thread

there's still a lot of crap going on in my life right now at the moment a whole lot of family drama unfortunately thank you all for your responses on my other thread but I need an answer on them putting a secondary reverse solenoid in by Monday or Tuesday. if it even exists. Thanks folks God bless I'll check back tonight. One of the family dramatic changes I just had to move again in the last two months I had to move twice so I have no internet signal this is through my phone over the wireless waves

luvrbus · September 07, 2014, 02:18:20 PM

They do have 2 solenoids 1 in the rear panel next to the starter relay MCI calls it a magnetic switch solenoid very same as the starter relay but a different name and MCI charges according

The other one mounted on the transmission is pricey but no where close to 1300 bucks the last one I bought was less than 400 bucks from MCI but that was several years ago you need to hire Craig and move that bus from that shop

lou432 · September 07, 2014, 04:31:32 PM

yeah I know I need to hire Craig to move it no doubt! Schedule will only do it mid October so I try to find a home for it down there. 4 Hours of labor to change it out @ 120 an hour that's 500 bucks and if the part has gone up in price and they did say it was extremely hard to find so god knows what they paid for it plus markup is probably 6 or 700 bucks. I may just bite the bullet and have them do it and then just move it out of there until I can get up here...

bevans6 · September 07, 2014, 04:50:47 PM

As far as I know there is just a relay in the engine bay panel and a solenoid on the top of the transmission. The dash switch controls the relay which controls the solenoid. The solenoid has two coils, one is the pull in coil that moves the levers, it is high current, and then when the lever is moved into position the hold in coil (low current) holds it while you engage the gear. There are points inside the solenoid that do the switching between the pull in and the hold coils so that part is automatic. Then you let go of the switch and drive backwards. When you are done driving backwards you shift out of reverse and the levers all reset. I guess you could call a relay a solenoid, but I wouldn't.

Brian

chessie4905 · September 07, 2014, 05:05:15 PM

If they don't have the manual to adjust it properly, the tendency is to remove the slop out of it and then it will only work intermittently; especially when warmed up. Had this same thing happen on our 4104. Thought the linkage was too sloppy so I tightened it up. It started not engaging when warm; had to help it to go into reverse. Bought a new solenoid, and same thing. Finally got the book out and studied it. Put the slop back into it and adjusted it so points break when moved into reverse. Worked fine ever since. Duh... Should have used the manual from the beginning.

luvrbus · September 07, 2014, 06:25:52 PM

Eagle does the crap calling the relay a magnetic switch solenoid for the reverse it's a 10 buck relay to me then you have the RV people calling it a continuous duty solenoid for 40 bucks still a relay to me

bevans6 · September 08, 2014, 03:23:38 AM

When I was doing my engine change I thought for a while of making a cable to replace the solenoid. At the end of the day I had two lousy ones and rebuilt one good one out of the two so I didn't pursue that.

Brian

wg4t50 · September 08, 2014, 03:44:48 AM

Between the poor gear choice 4 speeds, goofy reverse setup, very poor clutch push clutch assembly is EXACTLY why I went to the RTO910, something that works and is idiot proof. When I found the difference between the two different bell housings, both SAE 1 however one a SAE 2 flywheel other SAE 1 flywheel, Why was that little gem ?
Dave M

Fredward · September 08, 2014, 10:37:10 AM

Agreed on the solenoid versus relay. The relay is in the rear junction box, the solenoid is on the transmission. Adjustment is critical with that solenoid. If it doesn't pull in far enough to open those points, the large pull in coil will fail in very short order and you end up replacing the solenoid again. Don't ask how I know this. If the shop isn't an MCI shop, they probably aren't going to know enough to adjust it and that brand new $400.00 solenoid will fail just like the last one. Only way to adjust it properly as far as I know is to use a DC current measuring device so you can tell when the points opened. Don't ask how I know that either.

I have two reverse solenoids that I would be glad to part with; now that I have the Allison MT647 Automatic

chessie4905 · September 08, 2014, 03:14:32 PM

You remove the two screws securing the end cap that encloses the points. With solenoid engaged manually with a small pry bar on the shift lever, check and adjust point gap by adjusting play in linkage. When adjusted properly, the play will look excessive. GM doesn't specify a specific gap, just that the points open.

Fredward · September 09, 2014, 06:59:01 PM

That's a good idea that Chessie has. I never thought of doing it that way. Its real hard to get at the back end of the solenoid on the MC5 but if you can get in there I'd say that's a good way to go. But be sure to check it electrically as well as manually. Its a damn expensive adjustment to get wrong.
Fred

bevans6 · September 10, 2014, 04:28:39 AM

That's how I did mine, but my engine and trans was out when I did it. Be a major PITA to do on a 5 with the engine in. I would probably jack it, block it high, pull the driver's side wheels and wiggle in so I could sit beside the axle and work on it from there. the key is making sure the solenoid plunger can bottom out fully and open the points before it is restrained by the linkage. At the same time it has to move the linkage enough.

Brian

luvrbus · September 10, 2014, 05:45:26 AM

Most of the time I find the linkage full of crap with caked on dirt and grease a good cleaning uselessly does the job,I built a air control for a Eagle it worked like a charm.

I got the idea and parts from a truck with a Spicier transmission that had a reverse air button on the dash it was a White 9000 model if I remember