Anyone have any ideas? - Page 2
 

Anyone have any ideas?

Started by Ace, May 03, 2014, 04:54:22 AM

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Zeroclearance

Ace, I have been watching this thread..   I have tore apart my H radiator so I am aware of what you are going thru.   I do have a question>>  did you get a like for like radiator core?   Did you pull the tanks off your radiator?   Did you count the rows and cores??    Put another way, do you have a like for like radiator?   

You mentioned that you ran hotter after the install.   I question if your new radiator is doing the job?   Do you have a material break down > gasket material, rag, or ?? that is blocking the flow?   Or is the capacity not equal to what you had?   Can you remove the radiator and remove the top tank.. 

zubzub

just cause sometimes the obvious gets missed...any chance the temp probe got changed  in the switch?  ie your not hot you just look hot from the dash

Ace

Zero the radiator I bought came from an exact bus, same model, same year, everything! After removing my original, I compared radiator to radiator without pulling apart of course and they were identical. That's all I can go on re: comparison.
Zub
These temps I'm getting are from 3 sources.
Dash gauge
Silver leaf electronics gauge
Pro-Link


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Ace Rossi
Lakeland, Fl. 33810
Prevost H3-40

Dave5Cs

Were me and it isn't but I would flush the system with whatever will eat material and not your engine a few times. leave the lower hose open when draining and then stick a hose in the upper hose and let it run to see what the flow is like. Pull upper and lower hoses off radiator and let the water flow through and see if it is clogged. Do the heat lines still carry water also and could it be clogged through it? Just some thoughts.

Dave
"Perfect Frequency"1979 MCI MC5Cs 6V-71,644MT Allison.
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 60th Anniversary edition.
1998 Jeep TJ ,(Gone)
Somewhere in the USA fulltiming.

Rick 74 MC-8

I agree with Dave flush the system in Reverse if that rag was in the thermostats it could also be in the top of the radiator

Rick
About 20 Miles West Of Chicago

eddiepotts

I am not sure but does the thermostat have a failsafe feature. I know my truck did and we would only see temps soar when we were going up a hill. I was able to drive for 20 miles before I could  find an Auto parts store to change it. There was no rhyme or reason for it to go out but it did. Just on a drive to Tulsa the truck shut down and after it cooled it started again. I watched temp and drove it to where we were staying. The shop the next day wanted to pull the intake for $1000 and change the temp sensor. Of coarse I told them no and left. I went by Napa and bought the sensor for $30. I removed my alternator and my hand fit fine under the intake so I changed it. Sure enough we start to head back to Houston and it was getting hot going over hills. Found a auto parts store and for $10 changed the thermostat and never another problem. the truck was only about 5 years old.  If you had a rag in the system I would not be surprised to see some of it there. If not a failsafe thermostat it could be low flow at that point with a rag in it. BTW how much rag did you find? The whole thing or half? I would guess a whole rag would mean it is all gone. If you found a piece of it you need to be looking for the rest.  It does not take much water to cool an engine. From the size of the hoses down to the smallest ports of restriction just a little flow will keep it somewhat cool on flat terrain.

Zeroclearance

Ace, so the radiator was used?   I'd pull the tanks off and inspect to see if any of the interior rows have been repaired/capped.   


Ace

zero it was 3 months old when I purchased it! I really think it's never been apart and I think the culprit is more rag that is in it! Until I research more that's all I can go on!


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Ace Rossi
Lakeland, Fl. 33810
Prevost H3-40

luvrbus

That will really chap you when someone caps the tubes from the inside it happen to me a bus service well known did that to me for 1200 bucks  ???
Life is short drink the good wine first

Ace

What's the reason for doing this?


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Ace Rossi
Lakeland, Fl. 33810
Prevost H3-40

luvrbus

Ace they do that so the radiator shows no signs of repair these slick jokers will use a fin comb a little paint and make one look like new plugging the tubes from inside the tanks .

Mine was leaking on the bottom in several place and he told me it needed a core and I agreed and paid 1200 bucks plus labor and had to replace the radiator in a year because my 8v92 was getting hot something it never done before.

The radiator shop in Texas showed me the problem and how it was rigged to make a few bucks he said had seen a lot done that way on high $$$$$  cores and he could not understand why a person would go to that much trouble just to screw somebody Not to knock the good preachers of this world but one that has the fish on everything,passing out pamphlets and working on buses I run like hell now  ::)  
Life is short drink the good wine first

Zeroclearance

I agree 100% with what Clifford is saying.   I have been polite trying flush out the other nasty "cover up"..

At the very least one could use a good Borescope,  I have a Snap On BK6000..   Great tool for this job..

The black rattle can special with a fin comb gets you a NEW radiator..


Oonrahnjay

Quote from: Zeroclearance on May 05, 2014, 02:25:45 PM...  At the very least one could use a good Borescope,  I have a Snap On BK6000..   ...

    You all are talking about water/anti-freeze flowing through the radiator.  Since "something changed" since before the radiator swap, is there any chance you've got any air trapped in that system from when you did the radiator?  It's a pretty slim chance, but that is just what it acts like.  Air trapped expands when it gets hot and blocks even more of the cooling capacity/heat transfer capacity.  Just a guess ...

BH   NC   USA
Bruce H; Wallace (near Wilmington) NC
1976 Daimler (British) Double-Decker Bus; 34' long

(New Email -- brucebearnc@ (theGoogle gmail place) .com)

Oonrahnjay

   Sorry, double post ...
Bruce H; Wallace (near Wilmington) NC
1976 Daimler (British) Double-Decker Bus; 34' long

(New Email -- brucebearnc@ (theGoogle gmail place) .com)

Ace

I think we got all of the air out of the system! It will not take any more coolant and I've topped it off after several long and short runs, also the very first trip after radiator change we had to stop on side of road and bleed off an air pocket. 


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Ace Rossi
Lakeland, Fl. 33810
Prevost H3-40