Luke and the boys at US Coach

luvrbus · May 03, 2014, 06:09:37 PM

If you have the clunk the relays are good now it becomes a voltage,solenoid or starter problem I know you hooked the batteries in series ? and no the remote starter button is not voltage sensitive. Setting overnight and won't start man I hope it is not internal it doesn't take much water or fuel to lock one up

good luck

Linda-XL40-FL · May 03, 2014, 08:30:12 PM

Ed, where are you headed this summer? We'll be wandering out west somewhere, don't know where yet.

Ed Hackenbruch · May 04, 2014, 02:53:03 AM

Linda, we have people in a couple of places in Montana that we want to spend some time with. After that will probably end up in Western WA. visiting friends in our old home towns. From there we will just wander around on our way back towards AZ. Maybe our roads will cross.

oldmansax · May 04, 2014, 04:23:05 AM

Quote from: Ed Hackenbruch on May 03, 2014, 01:31:38 PM
Are remote starter switches voltage sensitive? My starter is 24 volts.

Ed, remote starter switches are not voltage sensitive.

TOM

Ed Hackenbruch · May 04, 2014, 06:10:56 AM

Good to hear the remote starter switches don't care about voltage.

Just now i was looking at my starter and noticed that the solenoid has 12v stamped on the base....shouldn't that be a 24 v solenoid or does it matter? Seems to me that it would but electrical stuff is my weakest point!

luvrbus · May 04, 2014, 07:43:02 AM

Needs to be 24 volt Ed, even with the 12v solenoid it should have fired did the rebuilder install the ground wire from the solenoid to the lug on the back of the starter ?

Emcemv · May 04, 2014, 09:01:35 AM

Ed

You need to look at the battery voltage when you try to start and get the clunk, if the battery voltage stays around 24v then something is open in the starter path. If the voltage drops a lot when you get the clunk then Clifford could be right and the engine is locked for some reason.

Hope you find it!

Dave5Cs · May 04, 2014, 09:50:00 AM

Ed you stated in your above post,"The rest of it was just a few little things that needed attention....a switch here, a wire there, etc. "
Was it anything to do with the starter circuit or rear start panel etc. Just wondering.

Dave

Lin · May 04, 2014, 10:17:01 AM

I guess I am unsure about the sound that you are getting when trying to start, and that could make a big difference. A clunk, to my way of thinking, is pretty dramatic like the starter engaging. It that were happening and the engine not turning, you should get a significant voltage drop. You would even see that on your dash gauge as you hit the starter. A click or a slap could be a relay.

You did mention that they changed something in the rear panel. If the starter is not engaging, it may be worthwhile to see if any of the wires there came loose. I have sometimes found that problems that appear directly after some service or repair have something to do with that work.

Dave5Cs · May 04, 2014, 10:47:15 AM

Have you tried starting it from the rear panel and if so is it the same sound or something different?

Dave

Ed Hackenbruch · May 04, 2014, 11:59:15 AM

Clifford, ground wire is hooked up, gonna call the rebuilder and talk to him about the 12v solenoid. Bruce i don't have a voltmeter, need to get one. Engine is making a partial rotation but not very much at a time. Even though they are brand new batteries it just sounds/feels like they are low. Going to take them back to Napa and have them test them. Maybe i got a bad one. Dave and Lin, they did replace the start switch in the rear panel, will have to take a look at it. Went thru and cleaned up all of the cable ends and bulkhead connecters that i could find, still nothing.

Lin · May 04, 2014, 01:47:24 PM

Well, it would seem if you are getting a partial rotation, the switches and relays are doing their job. That would send you back to looking at the batteries, starter, and cables. You do need a multimeter; a cheap digital one is fine. Have you tried jumping one of your start bats with your car or house bats?

Ed Hackenbruch · May 04, 2014, 01:57:42 PM

We did try starting with jumper cables directly from the batteries to the starter so as to bypass everything else, still no go. Like i said i am suspicious of one of the batteries being bad.....will find out tomorrow.

Lin · May 04, 2014, 03:41:09 PM

What I meant was to use the house bank, a car, or both to jump the start batteries. I have found that when the start batteries are low, just boosting one of the 12v batteries works.

zubzub · May 05, 2014, 02:50:04 AM

had this confusing me 3 days ago on a bike.....relay clicked...good voltage no startter.....was a bad ground from bat "-" to cable. thought it was something in the "+" cables contacts etc for a bit then felt the heat on the bat "-"terminal.
kicked myself for not catching troubleshooting 101: bad ground. in my case the connection was tight but unseen surface corrosion was blocking the path.