typical conversion component costs?

[lvmci]

Hi, I have a 10 gallon electric water heater used when shore power is available,  and a propane powered tankless, that I use most of the time. If I remember right,  the mci5As were million mile buses and the mci9s and above were 3 million expected life span buses, as they were promoted. Lvmci...

[bandsaw]

Hello, I started with a 1990 MCI 102C3 and switched to a 1998 H3-41 in 2011.  The H3 I chose most would frown on, it needed many simple mechanical repairs, air would leak out in 3 minutes, it leaked antifreeze in several places and the bus air did not work. The motor is sound and the transmission had just been rebuilt before my purchase.  I learned how the bus air worked and I repaired it myself.  The body is decent and it was not beat up from rough roads. I bought it at the bottom of the drop in the economy.  The bus is the last of the framed windows and the first with the improvements to the structure and frame. I am very happy with the switch. 
-On the MCI, the flat side windows are easy to switch to sliders and the vertical side walls allow simple installation of awnings.  Sam Caylor has all the MCI parts you would need.
-On the H3, the curved side windows make it difficult to install sliders ($$) and the awnings require custom brackets. The large bays allow me to stay upright on my knees and work. This is very nice.  The coach is very tall and adding roof air makes it worse.  I often drive in the middle of the road to miss trees. Used parts are very hard to find. There are not many do it yourself conversions of the H3. H3Jim, Ron W., Ace, and a couple more.  Haul that dinosaur home, put it in your driveway and it will start eating your money!!

[luvrbus]

Just the body parts are hard to find for the H most of mechanical stuff is the same as a XL I was at a place Tuesday I never in my life saw so many late model XLV 2000 + models  Prevost in so many pieces and they were bringing in another one lol

[busproject]

Hello, I started with a 1990 MCI 102C3 and switched to a 1998 H3-41 in 2011.  The H3 I chose most would frown on, it needed many simple mechanical repairs, air would leak out in 3 minutes, it leaked antifreeze in several places and the bus air did not work. The motor is sound and the transmission had just been rebuilt before my purchase.  I learned how the bus air worked and I repaired it myself.  The body is decent and it was not beat up from rough roads. I bought it at the bottom of the drop in the economy.  The bus is the last of the framed windows and the first with the improvements to the structure and frame. I am very happy with the switch. 
-On the MCI, the flat side windows are easy to switch to sliders and the vertical side walls allow simple installation of awnings.  Sam Caylor has all the MCI parts you would need.
-On the H3, the curved side windows make it difficult to install sliders ($$) and the awnings require custom brackets. The large bays allow me to stay upright on my knees and work. This is very nice.  The coach is very tall and adding roof air makes it worse.  I often drive in the middle of the road to miss trees. Used parts are very hard to find. There are not many do it yourself conversions of the H3. H3Jim, Ron W., Ace, and a couple more.  Haul that dinosaur home, put it in your driveway and it will start eating your money!!

Good post.

What are the structural improvements, and did the structural improvements begin with the 41? Because those are going for a lot more than the 40s, even when the 40 is equipped with a series 60 and same miles. Was wondering about that. I'm guessing they added the 1' because then everything aft of the rear axles is identical to a 45?

Interesting about the windows! Grrr. How much were slider replacements per window for your H? Do the stock H windows tilt out? I'm guessing they are designed only for emergency opening, not when underway. But if I was designing them, I would guess they would be hinged on top and swing out on the bottom, is this true? Does the latch work easily? If true, I may be able to engineer simple prop and screen designs, and with a relatively small roof fan in the vent openings, I could quickly draw air through to quickly cool it off, at a lot less power than running the AC.

The tall bays on the H would be a big benefit to me, worth the other tradeoffs. If I don't do an H, I probably won't do a conversion. The tall bays would be the biggest advantage to me over just another motorhome.

[robertglines1]

If you think a bus is just another motor home you belong in a stick and staples. Everyone has been nice to you here!  But if you haven't figured the difference in the way something is built then go for the sticks and staples (motor home).  How many 60 yr old motor home or for that fact 25 or 30 yr old motor homes are still on the road?  Just a point from a non professional engineer..  You need to connect with the hobby and the bus life.. these units were made to carry passengers safe  24 hrs a day 365 days a year.. not to a camp ground a short distance away a few times a year  with a limited life span..   Bob

[luvrbus]

 The H-41 replaced the H-40 the H-40  was only around for a few years like 5 years I think, all H-41 had the series 60 engines with a larger engine compartment and different tag axles to accommodate the 60 series and B500 transmission 

The H-40 had mostly the 92 series engine a few had the series 60 I don't remember if the H-40 had the B500 with the series 60 or not I believe 1994 was the last year for the H-40 and the first year for the H-41 I could be wrong on that

good luck

[busproject]

If you think a bus is just another motor home you belong in a stick and staples. Everyone has been nice to you here!  But if you haven't figured the difference in the way something is built then go for the sticks and staples (motor home).  How many 60 yr old motor home or for that fact 25 or 30 yr old motor homes are still on the road?  Just a point from a non professional engineer..  You need to connect with the hobby and the bus life.. these units were made to carry passengers safe  24 hrs a day 365 days a year.. not to a camp ground a short distance away a few times a year  with a limited life span..   Bob

Oh I know all that! Bus won't be a rattletrap, safer, more stable, more roomy, everything. In fact, that's why I look at an 800k mile H and think, that structure has a lot of life in it. Depends on the cost of rehabbing all the systems, plus the conversion. It's just that one of my primary uses may not be extensive travel, but just acting as a place in the city if I buy a house way out in the boonies (city/suburban housing is too expensive for me to afford a place with a workshop). Which would not require all of the above, except, I would be commuting around the city on a bike daily, which would require easy use of such. Putting it on an external rack, even with lock, would invite theft. But if the costs are not too out of whack for me, yes, a coach is the way to go. Especially if I start making trips south for the winter, I haven't done that in the past, but may, in which case, for months-long stays, I would want more space than a van. I wouldn't be taking very long journeys unless it would be for long stays. Maybe short jaunts to the mountains to enjoy the snow in the winter. Great heat will be important. AC perhaps less so, but I should plan it in if only for resale value down the road.

[busproject]

The H-41 replaced the H-40 the H-40  was only around for a few years like 5 years I think, all H-41 had the series 60 engines with a larger engine compartment and different tag axles to accommodate the 60 series and B500 transmission 

The H-40 had mostly the 92 series engine a few had the series 60 I don't remember if the H-40 had the B500 with the series 60 or not I believe 1994 was the last year for the H-40 and the first year for the H-41 I could be wrong on that

good luck

Was wondering about the trans, thanks! One of the coaches I see advertised with a 60 says automatic but not B500 like their other listings, I was wondering if it is not. Yes, the vast majority of H40s I saw were with 8V92s, so I passed. But now seeing late 40s with series 60s, that's what got me interested. But I do want to find out about improvements after that. Boomer in an older thread ("buying a Prevost H3-45") recommends '99 through '02 due to a number of improvements such as frameless windows, dual Bosch alternators, new dash and switches, parcel rack A/C, but doesn't mention structural improvements. I think I'll message him and ask about that.

[bandsaw]

Hello, my 1998 was the first one to have the added bracing in the rear suspension. I don't know exactly when they added plates on the stainless frame.  I think that started in 1997.  I don't think you will be able to find factory sliding windows for a conversion. They do not sell assembled windows any more. When they were available the price was over $5k per window.  Pennisula glass has a method to make an slider from two flat panels.  Dave at Southern Oregon diesel has a reconstructed 45 foot H3 with the Pennisula windows.  He was trying to sell the bus shell. The windows swing out at the bottom but the cooling is not near as nice as a flat open window.

If you are not going to do the work yourself, I would not start with an empty shell.  I am doing my bus as an interesting project that is fully paid for as I go.  I have an enclosed heated shop so I can work year round.  I also wanted a 41 foot and I have not seen any factory conversions of H3-41's.  If you are doing this for a project go for it.  The only reason to start with an empty shell is the enjoyment of the project.  If you are more interested in a completed conversion buy a finished conversion. Factory converted used bus prices have dropped steadily since I bought my H3.    

[robertglines1]

Since I've gotten involved in a discussion I did not intend to I will finish my though.. The coach as you said you would like to build for your use would have almost little market valve for resale. Yes some one would like it --but not for the general market.. also day to day expense for all those nice solar,battery Banks (thousands of dollars) systems,converters,etc==if your only going to use them on occasion they are not going to pay off..  makes more $$ to just run gen set and pay for fuel  in it. Hugh gen sets= more fuel--size it for your load..  The more weight you add the more fuel you use going down the road.  Look at allot of other things when buying coach.  tire age =A set can easily cost you $6,000--  Air bags--usually going at 10 years--got 8 of them on a H model.  Battery (start) best I have gotten is 6 years.  Over the road Air --plan on $1,000 to charge it minimum.  10 gallon oil changes...I think the reason for the pre 2002 60 series suggestion is it is pre egr and gets better mileage and last longer. If you must take the plunge it is a great hobby and I love to build and the challenge. The H -is a good base. Then you need to decide your life style-use of it. `Plan on loosing money but having a great time and meeting fantastic people...  My personal opinion.  Bob

[busproject]

H series are S/S tubing up to the floor level

Ahhhh. OK. Probably better protected from spray that high up, but just condensation can wreak havoc, so I'll plan on inspection. Nice thing is, little fiber optic handheld cameras (with light on the end of the probe) have gotten relatively cheap, I am thinking that may make pre-purchase inspection easier. Or does the long side panel above the cargo bins come off easy? I would expect that I would have to get access to that area anyway during the conversion in order to insulate, either from the outside or the inside. In your experience, how well did they coat the tubes above floor level?

Thanks, all these details do matter. If I do this, I really would like to package all this info into one place in a very organized format. It really would be enormously useful reference, rather than having to search through or post new threads. I would have to just compile it using regular word processing, but I'd need someone more knowledgeable to transfer it to an online format that is easily and quickly referenced. Just off the top of my head, I'm thinking...

Prevost H Series

• Primary differences between H and other models and makes, the overall good and bad
• Changes by model and year
• Detailed specs
• What to watch out for (systems often needing service)
• Full inspection procedure and checklist, good sources by region
• Typical rebuild costs for systems, per publish date
• Sources for parts, by region
• etc.

The Conversion

• Order of operations and why
• Removal of interior (and can seats and bins be sold?)
• Interior layout with sample plans
• Systems layout; wiring and plumbing runs and design
• Systems detail; head, shower, tanks, HVAC, stove, power systems, etc. Choices, typical costs at time of posting, source list, installation issues.
• Window and vent issues
• Insulation; roof, sides, floor
• Flooring designs
• Wall coverings
• Walls, cabinetry and furniture designs and fabrication
• Printable checklist/worksheet in Excel or other app for costs and labor (separated by pro and self rates)
• etc.

[busproject]

Hello, my 1998 was the first one to have the added bracing in the rear suspension. I don't know exactly when they added plates on the stainless frame.  I think that started in 1997.  I don't think you will be able to find factory sliding windows for a conversion. They do not sell assembled windows any more. When they were available the price was over $5k per window.  Pennisula glass has a method to make an slider from two flat panels.  Dave at Southern Oregon diesel has a reconstructed 45 foot H3 with the Pennisula windows.  He was trying to sell the bus shell. The windows swing out at the bottom but the cooling is not near as nice as a flat open window.

If you are not going to do the work yourself, I would not start with an empty shell.  I am doing my bus as an interesting project that is fully paid for as I go.  I have an enclosed heated shop so I can work year round.  I also wanted a 41 foot and I have not seen any factory conversions of H3-41's.  If you are doing this for a project go for it.  The only reason to start with an empty shell is the enjoyment of the project.  If you are more interested in a completed conversion buy a finished conversion. Factory converted used bus prices have dropped steadily since I bought my H3.    

Excellent info about the structure, that was what I was looking for.

Window costs: YIKES! Is that for sliding windows, or just the original replacement glass?!

Yes I expected swing windows don't cool as well as sliders, that's why I said I would need a roof fan to suck air through.

I'm beginning to see why Hs are going cheap after their service life is over.

[busproject]

Since I've gotten involved in a discussion I did not intend to I will finish my though.. The coach as you said you would like to build for your use would have almost little market valve for resale. Yes some one would like it --but not for the general market.. also day to day expense for all those nice solar,battery Banks (thousands of dollars) systems,converters,etc==if your only going to use them on occasion they are not going to pay off..  makes more $$ to just run gen set and pay for fuel  in it. Hugh gen sets= more fuel--size it for your load..  The more weight you add the more fuel you use going down the road.  Look at allot of other things when buying coach.  tire age =A set can easily cost you $6,000--  Air bags--usually going at 10 years--got 8 of them on a H model.  Battery (start) best I have gotten is 6 years.  Over the road Air --plan on $1,000 to charge it minimum.  10 gallon oil changes...I think the reason for the pre 2002 60 series suggestion is it is pre egr and gets better mileage and last longer. If you must take the plunge it is a great hobby and I love to build and the challenge. The H -is a good base. Then you need to decide your life style-use of it. `Plan on loosing money but having a great time and meeting fantastic people...  My personal opinion.  Bob

Yeah. Yeeeaaaah. This is why I'm asking. Yep. Yep....Yep.

[busproject]

So I'm doing the math, and if posters are right about full conversions being available at good discounts, it sounds like I will not do a full conversion. I would either look for that, or, based on the seated coaches I am seeing now, if I see one that appears to be in great shape, not requiring a new powerplant for the limited miles I would put on it, I might buy that and do only the following:

Rip out the seats, perhaps leave the cargo bins in place.

Insulation, nice floor, and heat. Must have heat capable of a 50 degree F temperature differential (20F outside, 70F inside). Everything else I'll go primitive, porta-potti, porta-sink, porta-stove, etc., everything internal to the cockpit, no storage tanks under the floor. It would be just like a small camper van, just a lot more space for things. Heat must be offline, so propane or diesel. So my question now is, recommendations on the heater, and what is the best way to vent the exhaust on it?

If I could generate enough solar to power a fridge, great, if not I would just do without there.

I've primitive vehicle-camped more than you can imagine, very experienced with it, so I know what I'm getting into there. Have done it through entire winters with no heat. I was warm under blankets but condensation was an issue, insulation and heat would take care of that. Summer was no problem in temperate climates. The above, with heat, would be just dandy for me for 5-7 day jaunts/uses (limiter I think would be porta-potti capacity, if I could dump that easy on site, longer would be easy).

[RJ]

Bob -

As part of doing your homework, you need to pick up copies of the following reading materials:

Beginner's Guide to Converted Coaches by Larry Plachno, the publisher of National Bus Trader, an industry magazine.  Altho somewhat dated, it's message is timeless and extremely valuable.

The entire series of books published by Dave Galey.  Dave's converted several coaches, and has covered just about every aspect of what needs to be done in his books.

Mike Kadletz published the magazine that this BBS is based off of for almost 20 years.  He wrote a book about conversions, it's somewhat rare and now out of print.  Can't remember the title, but IMHO, Larry's is better.

Amazon is your friend for these, but also check eBay, they pop up every now and then.

Finally, please take a couple minutes to update your forum profile to at least include a signature line similar to mine below.  Simply click on the "Profile" tab above, then in the LH menu that pops up on the next screen, click on "Forum Profile Info" and follow the prompts.  By including you name and home-base city/state, we can better help you, both with parts and service sources, and quite possibly a neighboring busnut!

FWIW & HTH. . .