mini split airlines

[robertglines1]

I hate to comment on open board since so many have mentioned problems. I had some hvac background and a close friends that are in the business. I did not use the factory supplied line kits but made up my own. Use Teflon paste on flares. pulled vac etc anchored everything solid. Movement is the enemy. MCI 8 and several other have been running theirs for years. I have not had mine on road yet.  I do have a charge kit and vac pump with me in case.  I also selected 3 separate units instead of one so if one goes down I don't loose everything. Actually most of the time a parked bus one Mini-split will do the job just fine.  Everything in this bus world is a personal choice:::: the safe way out is buy a roof air!! Pretty well goof proof!!!!FWIW   My inside units are part of the cabinets..Most guys with units that work are prob not going to say much and I understand. I do feel I led some down the wrong path.. I am glad the busnut that started me that direction did and his has been working for 6 plus years and another for more years than that.  All three of ours in bus running(in bus) are quieter than the one running in the Toter Home (roof top) Again :easy safe=roof top.   Bob

[luvrbus]

I see the big boys are using the Durasea roof top now I believe they would be a little pricey for the average bus nut @ over 2 grand a unit but they are quite for a roof top  

The Marathon I was in had 5 ducted Durasea units you could not hear one running but I think that applies to all ducted roof tops you can stand under the ducted unit in my daughters 5th wheel and never hear it 

Me I just open the check book and installed 3 Cruisair in the Eagle best unit on the market if installed right IMO

[Seangie]

"I hate to comment on open board since so many have mentioned problems....Most guys with units that work are prob not going to say much and I understand. I do feel I led some down the wrong path.. "

Bob -  we all make our own choices and live with them.  Granted we are influenced by others on this board but if anyone has issues with what you have suggested or feels wrongly influenced by things you have done on your bus -  that's their problem.  Not yours.  I'm glad about each step I've taken in building out this bus.  Good or bad.  You have been a huge influence in my build and I know at least 2 others that have been encouraged by the work you do. Granted there are some things that are done correctly or incorrectly but as far as choosing your HVAC, its like choosing the tires or the oil that goes into your bus.  You choose.  You said it best "everything in the bus world is a personal choice"  I wish more people would share the troubles and difficulties they have had with their builds.  Way too many will post about the great ideas they had and the success when it happens but very few post the challenges and failures that they have had.  You are one of my favorite posters and I cannot wait to someday meet you and see your bus.  Bottom line - please don't ever let others opinions or "feelings" influence what you post about your build.

-Sean
(Sorry bout the rant...now back to our regular program about Mini-Split installs...)
""


www.herdofturtles.org
1984 Eagle Model 10S

[luvrbus]

Yep well said Sean, Bob G is one of my favorites here I know he will get it right or work on it till he does and he will tell you about any pit falls as I mention the jury is still out on the mini splits, as of right now I am not a believer but that can change with me   

Bob has nothing to be sorry about anything new is going to have failures and he did not mislead anyone IMO   

[uemjg]

I started this thread with the intention of not only soliciting helpful advice, but also pitfalls and other's failures.  I look at it all and then I proceed down one path or another.

THANKS everyone!

[robertglines1]

My opinion to success: Everything mounted solid. Use ref rated copper lines mounted firm /insulated extra care at turns. anywhere I had questions I shot foam in a can to lessen vibration chances.  Don't overtightened  your flare fittings. You can crack them. use Teflon paste on them when assembling . Check factory cabinet to make sure they didn't leave manifold free floating(has happened). Make sure your evaporator drain is down hill. Basic facts:  heat rises....    water runs down hill...   Movement is the enemy.  Keep as much fresh air to the condenser as possible.The discharge from the condenser is hot it will rise and should not discharge out bottom of bus downward unless as a ducted system of forced system(always a exception) A normal simple gravity feed draw cool air in from lower and draw across coil exit heated air rises up(hot air rises).   On point to think about-- don't recirculate your own condenser cooling air.   Bob

[Seangie]

My cliff notes from experience -

1.  Insulate the lines well.  They will condense.  The colder you can keep the freon in the line until it hits the evaporator -the colder the air will be in the coach.

2.  Like Bob said above - Think about your airflow through the outside condensing unit.  These things move a lot of air!  Use forced air if necessary!  Measure the area of the fan on the condenser and have at least that much space + 10-20% in your opening and exhaust holes.

3.  The evaporators make a ton of water.  Make sure you have good drainage.  I had my evaps raised a 1/2 inch higher on one side and it still would drip out of the pan going around banked curves.  If I did it again...I'd open up the evaporater and see if I could raise the walls to the drain tray.

4.  Flared fittings have to be perfect.  Make sure you have a nice clean flare on your copper lines.

-Sean

www.herdofturtles.org
1984 Eagle Model 10S

[uemjg]

While on the topic of mini slit ac's...Where's the best price on a 3 ton, 3 zone unit with inverter technology and 410 type freon?  I'm ok with a 240ac unit.  The best price ive found is about $2100 without the lines, plus shipping.

[sledhead]

My 9000 btu   comfrort aire  unit was cheep at $675. + $100. for lines . I like the kiss method and would install 3 separate units. So   WHEN   1 fails you still have a cool coach

dave

[ArtGill]

My evaporator had the option of changing which side the condensate drain was on.  So I made an adapter and connected a drain to both sides in case my coach wasn't level.

Art

[Seangie]

I bought both systems that I used from both minisplitwarehouse and goductless.com. both companies did a god job of shipping and goductless while screwing up what they sent had great customer service in dealing with the returns.


www.herdofturtles.org
1984 Eagle Model 10S

[Geoff]

I went with three 15k rooftop units, each one runs off a wall thermostat.  Two of them are also heat pumps.  Rooftop units don't bother me, and my bus came with a fully funtional bus A/C unit which I pulled out and put a generator in it's place.  12 years.

--Geoff

[Oonrahnjay]

     With my bus, I have no room for a rooftop - my rooftop surface is right at 13'6".  I have been looking at TomC's "interior" mount of the rooftop - I could do that for one unit under a couch upstairs (my bus is a double-decker) and have an almost direct "duct"* down to the driver's compartment (this would be down through the upstairs floor and exit through the ceiling downstairs).
     A reasonably size mini-split upstairs would provide cooling up there and also allow some cooling air to sink to the lower level, too.  I'm planning a simple drop-down air separator baffle to allow me to select how much/any air I allow cool air to drop down.  Since the bedroom is upstairs, I want to make sure that there's good, reliable cool upstairs for any parked situation.

     Thanks for the good, factual conversation here, guys -- it's helpful to me.   Bruce H  NC   USA

(* I call it a duct but really it would be a direct shot.  I'm thinking that an air handler to move air across the passenger and driver would be good but it wouldn't need to be complex, heavy, difficult, etc.)