Driver's A/C

[Skykingrob]

When I gutted my coach, I removed all the OTR except for the driver's evaporator. I found out from Dayton Air, the manufacturer, it is 39K heat and 45K A/C. I am looking for a way to power the AC side of the evaporator. I can go the traditional route with an engine driven compressor and all of that. However, I was wondering how crazy it would be to use the compressor side only of a mini-split unit to power to evaporator. It would have to run off the 110 volt AC side of the coach inverter since it would be 110 volt. Most of the low watt use compressors are "inverter" models. I don't know if the "inverter" model can itself be run off a 110 volt AC inverter or not. Can they? All of the compressor units are to tall to stand upright in the spare tire compartment under the drivers seat, so the compressor would have to lay down and a hole cut in the floor to exhaust the hot air. The hole is easily doable but I don't know if the compressor can be layed down or not. Can they? I know the mini-split compressor units are more expensive than the engine driver compressor, etc. but it seems like there would be less work installing it than running all the hoses, etc for the engine driver compressor.
Thoughts?

Rob
91 Prevost
Missouri

[Jon]

I seriously doubt if it would be worth the risk to have zero back up. If you have engine driven AC, and it is supplemented with inverter or generator powered roof airs or mini-splits then if any one system fails you can still drive down the road with some air conditioning.

I admit to being influenced by years of flying and having as much redundancy as possible, but I have done the same in my coach to the maximum extent possible figuring how to deal with failures and what my back up plan will be.

If you ever drive into the sun, in the summer, in the south you will understand why I place such a high priority in having multiple options for air up front.

[Skykingrob]

Hi Jon
My fault for not mentioning this in my post but I have 2 coleman ducted basement airs as the primary a/c source. The front duct runs completely forward with a vent infront of the driver and one infront of the copliot seat. The setup I am thinking about is a "separate driver's air" and as such would be supplemental or backup as the situation would arise.
Thanks for clarifying.

Rob
91 Prevost
Missouri

[TomC]

About the most BTU that you can get off a 120vac compressor is 15,000. Since the evaporator is rated for 45,000btu it will not cool properly. This is why most power the driver's air off an engine run compressor. A mini split or portable cannot be run on it's side. They are designed to be standing to facilitate the oiling of the compressor. "Running all those hoses" really isn't as hard as it seems. Then you'll have a nice, powerful A/C. Just have to install the condenser somewhere-usually in the engine compartment so you don't have all the high pressure hoses coming up to the front.

I have three roof airs with the front one mounted up close to blow right on me in the driver's seat. I also have a dash mounted fan that blows on me. Between the two, they keep me cool-and I've been in up to 108 degree weather. But-I have to run the generator going down the road-burns about 1/2 mile per gallon. Good Luck, TomC

[Jon]

I thought that you would have some sort of 120V AC in the coach, but that will make the one you are considering 120V also. As long as you have redundancy for the 120V power that makes sense. Some coaches that run 120V devices through inverters do not have by-pass provisions if an inverter or inverter relay should fail and they have no way to get shore or generator power to the devices.

On the store bought coaches some conversions for example did not provide a simple bypass means so if an inverter fails and the refrigerator is on that inverter they are in trouble. The same would apply to your air conditioning concept.

[robertglines1]

I have a mini-split condenser stood upright in the spare tire compartment.   The evaporator would fit where the stock defroster/drivers ac etc is now.  Fwiw.   Bob

[luvrbus]

One is only kidding their self if you think you can replace the dash air with a roof top or mini split buy your self a 28,000 btu RedDot or other brands and enjoy the cool ride one good dash unit will put out more BTU than 2 roof tops or the splits 

[robertglines1]

Did not say it would. Just said it would fit.  I have both.  My split is above driver window built in cabinet.  The problem I see with conversion is high pressure of 410 refrigerant compared to bus  pressures.  Just a theory question.  No argument here. Enjoy the ride.   Bob

[luvrbus]

I keep hoping one of you guys Bob will try the DC/AC units like are used in emergency vehicles that should work good in a bus one would think I wonder what freon they use lol nothing beats a good dash air IMO

[Jon]

Sorry Clifford..........nothing beats full coach over the road air. Current versions have 109,000 BTU. My 87 had about 84,000 BTU. I'm sure dash air is good, but unless a person is happy with a heat soaked coach when they stop, or are willing to start the generator and run all house AC units whole coach air is the way to go.

[luvrbus]

I have to agree Jon but the road air has been long gone on most of theses older buses,a dash air IMO beats the hell out of roof air trying to stay cool when on the road  

I removed my over the road air in my Eagle I shortly realized that was a mistake here in AZ lol I bought a Red Dot 38,000 btu for the front I never installed it the conversion was already finished and would have required tearing it apart again 

So I bought ear plugs to keep from hearing the wife and her thoughts on riding in a hot bus now I hear it from Matt lol

[Jon]

So I bought ear plugs to keep from hearing the wife and her thoughts on riding in a hot bus now I hear it from Matt lol


Good one. She don't read these forums does she?

[luvrbus]

No she doesn't read this board but some of her friends on FaceBook will tell her   and the I Pod worked good too till it quit

[robertglines1]

I feel your pain. Once said !  The comment that is.  My Judy is use to it.::: Most home converters that do not have the $$ to maintain busair do offset it by doubling insulation and better windows. I did have a ac unit in last coach aimed at drivers compartment and do have one above driver now.  I do try to make that area redundant with two means of ac.  A band of tint above drivers view helps cut down on sun heating thru massive front glass area. Also remember that heat rises to the top of your coach so any thing you can do to mix the air up will aid in your comfort.  A fan directed to mix air flow top to bottom. Cold feet and a hot head are no good so why not mix air and have a more even temp--degree F --that is.    Enjoy the adventure.  Bob

[robertglines1]

Original   You could do it.  The original evap prob would not handle the 410 pressure and you would need to use the evap etc that came with the mini-split system.  Also the compressor is the only part of condenser unit that has to stay upright. I have a 12000 btu unit mounted in the spare tire compartment. I did not modify it. The motor driven unit would be a higher capacity.  Would not give you heat and air while parked.  So as in anything in busnut world do it your way.  Bob