4106 Starter Bolt Removal - Page 3
 

4106 Starter Bolt Removal

Started by travlinman, October 28, 2012, 12:07:43 PM

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Van

Hi Steve, had the same issue with the starter in our 15, couldn't understand it, cables all nice and clean (terminals) still a no go. It wasn't till I started rechecking the +/- cables by Physically twisting them near the terminals that I heard a crunchy sound, that I discovered and over heated chassis ground, after cutting open the cable most of the wire fell out like powder. Luckily for me, there was plenty of cable left after cutting the bad stuff off. Made new terminal ends for it out of 1" copper pipe, and Viola! back in buisness! Best of luck to ya and hope you guys make it out here for the 10th. Be safe out there ;) :)

   Van 
B&B CoachWorks
Bus Shop Mafia.
Now in N. Cakalaki

luvrbus

Glad you are up and running Steve fwiw I never thought you had a starter problem most of the time a starter will give a tell tale warning in advance before giving up
Life is short drink the good wine first

fortyniner

Hey Steve, now that you can move the  bus you might want to back up on ramps and swap out and loosen that nut or even replace it with a 12 point bolt. Someday you may have to pull that thing out from the top in the middle of nowhere.

-Tom P.
Tom Phillips
PD4106-453
PD4106-2864
87 Alfa Milano
93 Range Rover
87 190e-16 Mercedes
92 Jeep Comanche

bobofthenorth

Quote from: fortyniner on November 01, 2012, 06:45:53 PM
Hey Steve, now that you can move the  bus you might want to back up on ramps and swap out and loosen that nut or even replace it with a 12 point bolt. Someday you may have to pull that thing out from the top in the middle of nowhere. 

What he said X 2
R.J.(Bob) Evans
Used to be 1981 Prevost 8-92, 10 spd
Currently busless (and not looking)

The last thing I would ever want to do is hurt you.
Its the last thing but its still on the list.

eagle19952

Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 N, DD, Allison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.

buswarrior

yes, what they said X 3.

the evil bus spirits will track you down.

Trouble you know about always comes back to get you.

There is no stress to working on a tricky fastener on a working part at home or in friendly waters.

Quite the opposite when you are stuck someplace with an overly zealous enforcement officer demanding you move now or else...!

happy coaching!
buswarrior
Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
new project: 1995 MCI 102D3, Cat 3176b, Eaton Autoshift

travlinman

Hey Guys that for the feedback,

Considering that we spend most of our time camped in the middle of nowhere it is my plan to pull that nut off as soon as I can. Right now I'm not quite sure how I will get off short of cutting it. That I am very reluctant to do while we are on the road. So,  it works now and I also have a few other more pressing maintenance needs. So the starter will have to wait, I am lining up some shop time for December so hopefully I can do it inside. That would be much more pleasant for sure.

I know you guys have some ideas on how to get that thing off so post up. Remember that I have tried standard sockets and wrenches and that is not happening for sure!

Hope to see a few of you in Vegas!

TM
Steve & Kristen Full time nomads since '06 - PD4106-674  8V71/V730
This bus is for sale - https://gm4106.wordpress.com

Boomer

Steve, didn't we talk about taking the solinoid apart first, lol?  If you get around to taking the nut off eventually (either by chisiling, cutting, or whatever) you could replace the stud with a good quality allen head bolt.  Tighten and lock tight the hell out of it.  Should have plenty of clearance then.  Good luck.
'81 Eagle 15/45, NO MORE
'47 GM PD3751-438, NO MORE
'65 Crown Atomic, NO MORE
'48 Kenworth W-1 highway coach, NO MORE
'93 Vogue IV, NO MORE
1964 PD4106-2846
North Idaho USA

luvrbus

If he removes that stud and replaces it with a bolt he will have oil leaks as that is a wet flywheel on 8v71 and v730,his rear motor mounts maybe causing his clearance problems 

Me I just open the ac door on the drivers side and use a long extension and 15/16th his problem may also be someone has rotated the solenoid to much to clear the manifold that nut is not hard to remove somebody tighten it lol so it will come back off 


good luck
Life is short drink the good wine first

06 Bill

 As Luvrbus says studs only, btdt had leaks with bolts. Sealed and replace studs all OK.   06 Bill

bevans6

If reduced head diameter and 12 point for wrench clocking is an issue, you can get 12 point head reduced diameter nuts to go onto studs.  Self-locking or not, with large diameter base so you don't need a washer under.

Brian

1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
Allison MT-647
Tatamagouche, Nova Scotia

luvrbus

They will leak I have seen and replace the bolts with studs where people have changed over to the DD star flanged starter bolts covered in gasket sealant or cooper washers trying to stop the leak but let him change it makes no difference to me 


good luck
Life is short drink the good wine first

Rick 74 MC-8

Put in a longer stud use a spacer before the nut



                           Rick 74 MC 8
About 20 Miles West Of Chicago

luvrbus

You don't want longer studs for sure lol I am a big fan of the GM but the guys at the factory knew what they were doing 95% of the time
Life is short drink the good wine first

eagle19952

Well I had no idea about the wet sump....making a socket similar to a fuel tube wrench might work....I still wonder if the starter is clocked proper or red loctite is in play here ?
Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 N, DD, Allison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.