Keeping the driver cool

robertglines1 · September 21, 2012, 07:56:43 PM

Ken's post on driver air and Sean's desires to keep cool brought this topic forward. Windshields and sun are heat killers--Giant solar ovens! Idea is drivers air off engine but for some it is a $ point that is a project killer. If your drivers air evaporator is still there maybe not so much because at least part of the hard work is done and hopefully the lines still exist to rear. Old Ford type air compressors with 12 v clutches and adding a condenser with electric fans can make a simple junk yard dash air. Or a commercial Red Dot system like Clifford suggested. I also used a 20 inch ceiling fan above drivers seat to circulate air down on me. Mirrored window tint starting 3 inches above drivers line of site will reflect solar heat outward yet you can see thru it. I checked with State Police before I did it to make sure it was OK. Please get your own opinion. Just my thoughts. To cool a hot subject. Bob

robertglines1 · September 21, 2012, 08:18:27 PM

20 inch ceiling fan $42 at Lowes. Use to circulate air otherwise to prevent heat layering top to bottom. Bob

Slow Rider · September 22, 2012, 05:41:05 AM

Bob,

One of the things I always liked about you was your simple, as inexpensive as possible, approach to solving problems with your bus. Please keep throwing out those ideas. certainly do appreciate them.

Frank

sledhead · September 22, 2012, 09:36:58 AM

Hi Bob On my bus I removed the old compressor,condenser ,misc from the front compartment but I left the lines,the front heater-ac is still there. Is the small line that came in to the condenser compartment the one from the front drivers ac. If so what do I need to make the drivers ac work ? new condenser (will a p/u truck ac unit work with a 12 fan ) a p/u truck ac unit (belt driven ),some misc. parts from the bone yard .Or is there a kit I can buy that is not the price of a new bus ?? I work with wood so not to smart with bus ac unit. thanks dave

robertglines1 · September 22, 2012, 01:18:42 PM

Does your 102 have the dual rad like the MCI 8's and 9's? Not for sure if they changed. Actually the physical size of the evaporator isn't that large. You can take a look at it. The aux /driver ac condenser on the prevost is about the size that you would find on a full size crew cab dually. Prob just a little bit larger. I have one out(condenser) will try to put a tape on it tomorrow. The experts can tell you exactly but I can give you a physical measurement of the one that matches my drivers (factory air). as for lines flex lines to start with in the engine compartment then join into lines like Ken did is simple way. You should have two lines to rear engine compartment where compressor was; so just a little plumbing. Ken might chime in and give you measurements before I get up to shop. Bob

robertglines1 · September 22, 2012, 05:13:39 PM

Condenser size for prevost aux air 30 1/2 inches wide by 15 inches tall. Tube size is 3/8 OD. The aux ac compressor is mounted (2 stroke) passanger side oil pan level run off cam pulley. Flex hose is used to bulk head,then hard copper to front spare tire compartment then flex to evaporator. Don't know BTU capacity. Bob

ruthi · September 22, 2012, 05:21:06 PM

Ken got hot driving. No drivers air. He installed a small room air conditioner in front right behind grill, so it is never seen from outside. It really is nice, and keeps it plenty cool. Some days, it is all that is needed to keep cool up front.

bevans6 · September 22, 2012, 05:28:22 PM

Roof air about four feet behind the drivers area, and two 7" fans on the dash - I find that moving air does work a treat. It's all a compromise if you don't have the powerful OTR air system any more.

Brian

Tony LEE · September 22, 2012, 06:12:00 PM

I still have the original whole of bus AC and heater unit working plus the drivers sections as well, but find the driver part of the AC and heater system really does very little in the way of adding to my comfort over and above what I get from the main part of the system. It is just too small to be effective, the location and size of the ducting and outlets is pathetic and the air infiltration through body openings plus heat gain/loss through the windscreen is just too much to counteract.

John Z · September 22, 2012, 08:55:22 PM

I am quite interested in the window air units being used behind the front grill or as a basement unit. Has anyone documented the process to do the ducting? I think this is something that would work for me.

daveola · September 23, 2012, 07:35:16 PM

I'd love to know where/how you managed to fit a window A/C behind the grill. Photos?

My thoughts on this:

1) I have roof air, one that's about 10' behind the driver - I've thought about putting flat-ish ducting along the roof to take cool air from the front and drop it over the driver. Could make it so you could move the ducting in manually for when you're driving.

2) Wondering if anyone makes coating that is reflective only for non-visible light (UV and the such). You could coat the windshield with it and it wouldn't change visibility, but I'm guessing a vast majority of the heat energy comes in the non-visible spectrums.

Scott & Heather · September 23, 2012, 08:18:04 PM

We temporarily duct our front roof air over the drivers area and block off the rear vent so all the air is directed to us. Works well...even in 90 degree weather.

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harleyman_1000 · September 24, 2012, 02:05:45 PM

Im brand new here, and am just a sponge, but I remember a old pontiac station wagon we had growing up( back in the 60's) had a self contained ac unit under the dash. Do they still make these? if so would it work?

robertglines1 · September 24, 2012, 02:45:15 PM

Ck out Red Dot on internet. Lots of stuff out there to adapt to our $$$$ needs. Lots of bike guys here also. Bob

Lin · September 25, 2012, 07:42:24 AM

No doubt engine driven AC would be best, but we are managing without it. We have modified the forward AC, which is definitely too far back, to throw all its air out the bottom and frontward. It works reasonably well. It does help that we live in the low humidity desert, so 80 degrees is okay. I experimented with putting a fan on the floor behind the driver, but I don't think I saw the difference. In a pinch, we could curtain behind the AC but have managed without that.

I know that there has been periodic talk of using a portable unit, and I still sometimes consider it. I saw one that though a bit more expensive than others, was very compact and would fit nicely up front. Such a unit could help a lot and provide some system redundancy.