5k/7.5k BTU Mini-Split

[Seangie]

Does anyone know where I could purchase a small (5000btu / 7500btu) mini-split?  Heat Pump and inverter technology preferred.

I am looking for something that is 110v, ~1000watts. 

I would like to have something that could run off the battery/alternator with the bus running that wouldn't require running the generator.  Also something that has a smaller footprint than 34" across. 

The only place I have been able to find anything close to this is RV or Marine style which start around 1800.00.  Too pricey for me.  Looking for 1500 or less.

thanks.

-Sean
www.herdofturtles.org

[robertglines1]

34inch condenser or evap?

[gus]

Don' understand your concern about running the genset, I do it all the time - that's what it is for!

Too many gensets don't get run enough, that often causes more problems than running one too much. I'm too old to ever wear mine out!

[luvrbus]

You are wasting your time and money thinking a 5000/7500 btu will cool you going down the road in a bus your best bet would be a engine driven compressor and a dash unit 30,000 btu it will cool 1/2 the bus 

Check wrecking yards (school buses) and even old farm machinery yards some farm equipment use nice combo AC and heat units like the Red Dot and Pro/Air and other brands ymmd

good luck

[Seangie]

Don' understand your concern about running the genset, I do it all the time - that's what it is for!

Gus - We have a 14kw martin generator.  Too much power for us.  We should sell it and downsize.  I am getting ready to replace our existing Coleman basement AC with mini-splits.  I am the only one in my family who likes the AC and sitting in the drivers seat will be mighty warm.  So I just need something that will keep me cool up there and leave the girls warm in the back of the bus.  I just hate to run the 14kw generator for a single AC unit thats going to draw maybe 8-12amps off the AC side.

34inch condenser or evap?

Robert - Evaporator - Inside unit.  If I end up using a house model it's going right up front and center above the 2 windows in the Eagle 10. If I could find an inside unit that is 32" or less in width, that would be perfect and leave me enough clearance on each side for what I want to build.

Check wrecking yards (school buses) and even old farm machinery yards some farm equipment use nice combo AC and heat units like the Red Dot and Pro/Air and other brands ymmd

Cliff - Thanks, thats a good idea.  I have looked at a lot of those units online.  Perfect for what I need but they are expensive.  I always forget to check the wrecking yards.

[robertglines1]

9000 btu  11 inches by 7 1/2  by   31 1/2 wide available inverter type heat and air. around $700 if you shop around.  I have one mounted rite over driver. pulls 6amp 120 volt.  Not road tested yet. Mci 8 tin tent has had his for several years;probably at least 5yrs with no problems.  I have only run mine while building bus. Great results!  Bob

[luvrbus]

I read where a windshield on a bus puts out 120 to 380 btu's per square ft of glass depending on the out side temperature not doubting you Bob but that is a lot of heat to over come with a 9000 btu unit 2 windshields and side glass 100 degree weather and the radiant heat it's going to be tough hope it works for you

good luck

[RJ]

Sean -

Just to help you with your thinking. . . GMC 4108s & 4905s as well as MCI 7s, 8s, & 9s, all had dashboard air.  Ran off the main system.  Evaporator unit married to the defroster heater coil.  Blew cold air out the defroster vents, plus gauge cluster vents on the GMs.

Since the OEM HVAC lines are still there, perhaps incorporating this like Clifford suggested might work for you?

FWIW & HTH. . .

[robertglines1]

Yet to be tested with mini: but did do it with 2ea 14700btu window ac mounted in bay and ducted to front. Would get up to upper 70's on high 95 degree days. I'm not trying to promote the mini split type!! The home made basement(window ac) unit I made out preformed the two roof tops I had on my first coach. I can comment on that. Just supplied measurements in this case. Good luck and do let us know how it works. Should at least blow good cold air on driver. As Clifford noted the front windows are killer heat sources. I used Mirror tint starting 3 inches above the drivers line of sight up to help with this on the 89 prevost. The 98 has no upper windows so I will only have a narrow band on it. You can still see good thru the mirror tint.  I checked with law enforcement and they could find no reason it should not be used.  Bob

[luvrbus]

That is what I am trying to say Bob you had almost 30,000 btu cooling on the other bus how is 9,000 btu going to cool that area, the average 2 door pickup has almost 30,000 btu's makes no difference what unit a split or non split unit btu's are btu's 

Knowing you if it doesn't work you will tell us I'll bet on that, I have a hard time figuring some of this out 1st day of fall in Phoenix it was a 105 and I get to thinking it is like that everywhere lol we give the AC's a workout here

good luck

[robertglines1]

To clear up: my new build is super insulated and I have 2 ea 9000 and a 12000 all mini split plus dash air.  Sean Question; if I understood it correct      was just to blow cold air on him and not to really cool bus.  Bob

[luvrbus]

Dash air that will work Bob but not 9000 btu lol

[Zeroclearance]

Last year I fixed my drivers A/C.   I purchased a new Tecumseh "Ford style" compressor.   I think that it's rated at 57,000 BTU's..   What many are missing is that when you are driving down the road, you get air infiltration.   I probably have the highers BTU heat gain with a BLACK H345..    It takes ALL of the A/C to cool the front drivers compartment.   Infact, driving into the sun I have closed off the front drivers compartment to keep the A/C up in the drivers area.    When closing the compartment the drivers A/C will and can drop the temp down and maintain 65 degrees (100 degrees outside)...