X10000 Manifold System

[Seangie]

I put together a new water manifold system for my bus.  I am calling it the X10000.

Feel free to copy, duplicate, improve on or ridicule the design.  Just wanted to share in case anyone else needed some ideas or could improve upon this one.

See the pics below.  This is based on (2) MiniBlocs from Viega and then I built the enclosure around it.  I wanted to have a single direction for all the supply lines to run.  It also allows an 3/8" input and/or output from either side of the manifold.  The total cost was about 115$ for the manifolds, 15$ for the "Viega Supply Adapters" and about 20$ for wood and screws.  Paint is optional


cut pieces laid out

box without doors - testing the manifold fitting - I had to dremel the holes slightly larger.  When i marked them I forgot to check them with the mounts installed.

Manifold Box with swinging doors mounted - Just need to install latches now.

View from the top

another view from the top

I'll post more pics once it's installed on the bus.

-Sean
www.herdofturtles.org

[sledhead]

nice job looks great . Is it for hot,cold domestic water or heat ?    dave

[Seangie]

Is it for hot,cold domestic water or heat

Dave,

It's for hot & cold domestic water.

-Sean

[Iceni John]

Looks good!   It definitely looks better than mine  -  I made my cold manifold from good ol' Sch.40 PVC fittings which look Rube Goldberg-ish but work well.   I have a single 3/4" inlet from the pressure accumulator tank, and the eight valved outlets have 1/2" Sharkbite fittings for continuous runs of PEX to each appliance.

John   

[pabusnut]

Well, I thought my Viega Manablock system looked pretty snazzy in my third bay---until I saw your pictures   Now mine looks so ---well second class!

I guess until I see yours installed and working--not on the bench-- I will still feel good

Is this Busnut Envy or what?

Steve Toomey
PAbusnut

[luvrbus]

You guys humor me a little here what is the purpose of a manifold system in a RV I have one in mine, you have 3 fixtures and you have to run a separate line to each fixture seems like a waste of time and material to me just have something that will never be used JMO 

[Seangie]

Cliff - I did get a little carried away...hence the name X10000. 

[pabusnut]

You know the old saying "If you can't afford to overdo it the first time--Don't do it at all!"!!!

Did I get that right?

Steve Toomey
PAbusnut

[thomasinnv]

Go big or go home

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[DKO]

You guys humor me a little here what is the purpose of a manifold system in a RV I have one in mine, you have 3 fixtures and you have to run a separate line to each fixture seems like a waste of time and material to me just have something that will never be used JMO 

The manifold is handy if you have a leak in a faucet, you can turn that one off until you get it fixed without losing complete access to water.

DKO

[Scott & Heather]

Sean, that looks simply amazing! Love
the attention to detail. That being said, we don't have a manifold. On/off valves at every water line inside the bus allow us to singly turn off individual lines if there is a problem. Kitchen sink, bathroom sink, toilet, fridge water/ice maker connected to reverse osmosis system, shower all have valves to shut off water. Works for us, but the manifold system is a pretty thing!


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[Ed Hackenbruch]

The more connections, the more possible leaks.

[DKO]

"The more connections, the more possible leaks."


Actually you should have fewer connections. Each line is continuous from the manifold to the fixture so you have no Ts and other connections behind cabinets and other hard or impossible to reach places. The only connections are at the fixture and manifold. the PEX screw on fittings are pretty reliable too.

Theoretically you should have better water pressure as well when running more than one faucet. If you have one 3/8" or 1/2" line feeding both sinks, commode and the shower you no what happens when somebody turns a sink on or flushes when you are in the shower. If ieach faucet has a 3/8" or 1/2" line then your pressure should not change much if you have sufficient pressure going into the manifold.

That is how it should work in theory and how it does work for us when we are using the pump or have the hose hooked up with good water pressure.

DKO

[luvrbus]

With a rv water pump like most use not your Prevost DKO most of those have a 110v water pump with a rv pump you get the same stuff with a manifold turn a fixture on no pressure on the others, 

The same amount of water passes through the manifold as a pipe

I do like the fill valve on a manifold with a hose you can fill the tank or run on city water with the turn of the valve that I like 

The manifolds were 1st used on Safari then it spread to others before Pex was ever used, It still takes a lot of pipe for that setup you are right about the fitting you don't replace the fitting you replace the line and some times that is not fun BTDT

good luck

[DKO]

With a rv water pump like most use not your Prevost DKO most of those have a 110v water pump with a rv pump you get the same stuff with a manifold turn a fixture on no pressure on the others, 

The same amount of water passes through the manifold as a pipe

I do like the fill valve on a manifold with a hose you can fill the tank or run on city water with the turn of the valve that I like 

The manifolds were 1st used on Safari then it spread to others before Pex was ever used, It still takes a lot of pipe for that setup you are right about the fitting you don't replace the fitting you replace the line and some times that is not fun BTDT

good luck

My conversion has a 12V Flojet off the shelf from CW. It is the 4.5 gpm version so I get a little more flow.

I stupidly let a 75W light bulb fall against one of the lines about 8 inches from the manifold the first winter I owned this while working on something else. I damaged the line too bad to trust it.

I found a coupling at Ace Hardware, screwed it on both sides and it has not leaked a drop in nearly 4 years and a bunch of miles.

DKO