How to replace passenger window glass on a sliding window RTS?

[Kevin Warnock]

I have a 1994 TMC T80206 with sliding glass windows. The glass is darkly tinted, and the tint is in the glass. It's not a film I can scrape off.

There is a rubber gasket around the edge of these curved panes. The panes are slightly curved, to follow the curve of the bus exterior.

I want two of my windows, four panes altogether, to be clear, not tinted.

What are my options?

I take it the most practical thing to do is use lexan sheet, which I presume can be bent slightly when installing to mimmic the factory bend in the original glass. Do I need to pre bend it in my oven, so it stays bent even when not held in place by the window frame?

If I need to pre bend it, can I just place a sheet of lexan on top of one of the removed glass windows and put both in my household oven? That way, the lexan will achieve the exact curve of the original glass. Presumably the glass can take the heat during this process. If this will work, what temperature should I use?

Once I have the plastic ready, how do I remove the glass and insert the plastic? Do I cut out the existing rubber gasket with a razor blade? If so, where do I get replacement gasket material and what do I do with it? I have never replaced any glass in any context, but I am willing to learn.

Thanks,

Kevin Warnock
http://KevinWarnock.com - my blog

[buswarrior]

Stock glass should be available for that RTS. Still lots of them in service.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[bevans6]

I'd use the stock glass, finding an oven big enough can be a pain. I know a guy who did it in a pizza oven.  Do some research on the plastic you choose - some lexan is quite prone to scratching and hazing.  You can drape-form lexan at around 300 - 350 degrees F.  http://www.emplastic.com/media/files/PF%20Lexan%20Processing%20Guide.pdf

Brian

[lostagain]

I would use stock glass if you can find it.

Don't cut the rubber. You can reuse it if it is not all dried up. If it is bad, take a sample to a glass shop so they can order some new material.

To remove, a combination of pushing and pulling the glass and prying, pulling the rubber will do. Just don't use metal tools. Plastic only, so you don't break the glass.

Use lubricant to reinstall: silicone spray. And again, no metal tools.

Maybe you can take the window frame out of the bus, so you can work on a bench to remove the glass. That would be easier.

JC

[lostagain]

I forgot: there is usually a string of rubber that is pushed in along the rubber half way along the width of it, on one side or the other. Pull that out first.

JC

[bevans6]

It just occurred to me that my local plastic supply house will do a heat-drape or vacuum mold for you if you bring in the thing you need copied.  Maybe you have a shop that can do the same thing.  Copying windows is easy for them, they do it all the time.

Brian

[chev49]

Especially in my case, It helps to have one of your friends help with glass removal and instillation.. and we also lube the rubber a bit when we are putting glass in.

[Kevin Warnock]

Wow, that's great that it's standard practice for some plastic vendors to duplicate curved glass window panes in plastic.

Should I expect a tremendous price quote for that service, or is it a routine practice such that prices are fair?

I would love to just order OEM glass, but, to my knowledge, only darkly tinted glass was ever made for the RTS.

Does anyone know if essentially clear glass windows are available for the RTS? I must have clear glass because I need maximum sunlight to come in these four panes.

Thanks,

Kevin Warnock
http://KevinWarnock.com - my blog

[fraser8]

I've used a local company to make windshields for custom cars I've done. They do laminated, tempered etc, curved and straight. If you give them a pattern like another window to copy its not that expensive.
http://www.coastalcurvedglass.com/curved-glass-products/transportation-vehicles
I Googled Curved glass and there are several companies that do it. I hope this helps.

[gus]

Lexan, like most all plastics, will expand and contract so much it will never have a tight seal in the gasket.

Light aircraft windows are float mounted for that reason, never screwed down tightly, otherwise it will crack.

I also remember reading somewhere that Lexan is not to be used where it is exposed to bright sunlight. Aircraft windows are made of Plexiglas for this reason.

[buswarrior]

Don't screw around on here, find a stock window vendor and ask about the tint.

The ones we have here in Big Transit are not what I'd call dark tint, but then, what do dark and light mean?

Window seals are all to be had stock, again, don't screw around, just buy them.

Unlike the older GM's the later RTS are not an abandoned baby quite yet.

Trouble for any bus model starts when they disappear from money making operation.

And, no, contrary to what your wallet says, busnuts do not count as money making operations, in the eyes of most suppliers.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[Kevin Warnock]

I am fine with the mild tint that windows on a regular passenger car have. But anything like a sunglass level tint is too much for these four panes. The rest of the windows I like having the tint.

I think the gentle bend is so mild that normal stock plexiglass can just be installed under slight pressure. The curve is so mild I think that degree of bend would happen just leaning a sheet of plexiglass against the wall. That doesn't seem like too much pressure for the rubber seals to be able to withstand long term. Anyone agree or disagree on this?

Thank you for all the great posts. I learned a lot on this thread. I had no idea that curved laminated glass could be custom made at a reasonable price, for example.

Kevin Warnock
http://KevinWarnock.com - my blog

[gus]

I've bent plexiglas by heating it gently with a propane torch and bending it by hand.

Wear gloves because the glas heats really quickly. Also be very careful not to hold the torch on any one spot. Moving in  and then moving out works best, it will melt right before your eyes it you hesitate too long.

Practice on some scraps. It isn't rocket science, if I can do it anyone can!!

I also use this method to smooth the rough edges after sawing, it looks great and is not as easy to melt as on the face.

It is better to burn holes with an old pencil soldering iron than drilling. If you drill look up how to grind the tip, never use a regular bit, and use high speed - the higher the better because you want it to melt more than cut.