Losing Air Pressure. Need Your Advice

robertglines1 · January 03, 2012, 10:02:05 AM

If all else fails and your dead in the water. A heavy equipment dealer like cat should have the fittings and labor to do the job. In my area allot of coal mine work goes on so we have access to their support people to make up hoses. Inquire about aero-quip fittings. Bob

DKO · January 03, 2012, 11:02:04 AM

Thanks, Bill from Hose Specialty in Ardmore mentioned Aeroquip reusable fittings this morning. He even gave me some part numbers but he didn't know the exact size of my hose.

DKO

robertglines1 · January 03, 2012, 11:48:02 AM

hose size: very thin wall 5/8 inside diameter 3/4 outside diameter including stainless braiding actual Teflon/plastic like : less than 1/16Th. Couldn't find my digital calip to ck so measurements were a close as I could get with tape.

DKO · January 03, 2012, 01:18:50 PM

Wow! Thanks! That helps a lot. The Aeroquip # he gave me for example was 63-190600-10. This is for a female fitting. I could put one on each end of the cut and a male coupling in between. That was an option he thought of... It looked promising to me.

DKO

Oonrahnjay · January 04, 2012, 01:36:25 PM

Quote from: DKO on January 03, 2012, 01:18:50 PMWow! Thanks! That helps a lot. The Aeroquip # he gave me for example was 63-190600-10. This is for a female fitting. I could put one on each end of the cut and a male coupling in between. That was an option he thought of... It looked promising to me. DKO

Yes, that will work (although some may argue that the best way is to completely replace the entire air line) and it offers an advantage in that if you ever decide to put in another component (like the "ping" tank) or a "T" for any reason, you've got a conmvenient place to open up and put in matching fittings to take air pressure/flow off of it.

Brassman · January 04, 2012, 02:04:52 PM

When, and if, you cut the hose make sure you make a clean cut through the braid. You slip part of a fitting over it, & it's a close fit.

I've used a thin abrasive wheel, as Tom Y posted, and put a tight wrap of masking tape around the hose, and cut in the center of the tape.

A length of hose would probably be cheaper than the fittings needed, assuming your hose is made up with those reusable Aeroquip fittings.

Oonrahnjay · January 04, 2012, 02:43:10 PM

Quote from: Brassman on January 04, 2012, 02:04:52 PMWhen, and if, you cut the hose make sure you make a clean cut through the braid. You slip part of a fitting over it, & it's a close fit.

I've used a thin abrasive wheel, as Tom Y posted, and put a tight wrap of masking tape around the hose, and cut in the center of the tape.

I like using hose clamps, too, on the outside of the masking tape. Wrap the tape as tight as you can, then screw the clamps down but don't deform the hose. Make the gap between the two clamps as thin as you can reasonably can -- it should be even all the way around, too -- considering the thickness of the abrasive wheel. But the important thing is to get a good, solid clamp on the hose so that the wheel cuts cleanly and doesn't leave ratty and ravelled edges. You'll be *really* glad to have a smooth, even cut when you begin to put the ends of the hose into the matching areas in the fittings.

Joe Camper · January 05, 2012, 05:25:49 AM

Bob in the future when making comments that are referring to me I would appreciate if you get your facts straight and refrain to not making any assumptions when you do.

Furthermore who I am what I do and what I charge people is my business and none of yours.

I find the comment you made lacking in facts and a bit offensive to say I suggested the longer harder CORRECT way to make that repair only because I overcharge people and that way was the longer way also suggesting I'm all about the money. Very rude I would have never posted that about someone here even if I thought it. You dont even know who I am other than this forum.

I an an enthusiast here. I spend a great deal of time trying to pass on what I know in an attempt to help people save money not flease them .

I saw a bunch of suggestions I disagreed with (splice) and decided to give him another point of view. It is also the way I would make that repair on my own bus. I also thought I was passing on all of the little idiosyncrasies about the fix he would encounter so he could do it himself if he wanted and save him the cost of paying someone like me. I also was thinking of all the other Prevo owners reading this so that they may view the advice as well.

And another thing I don't get 125 per hr. Other than a couple very generous people most folks pay me 55 per hr. That is what keeps me so busy and allows me to learn as much as I do in any given period of time. Got it. Thank you.

robertglines1 · January 05, 2012, 06:52:55 AM

Your welcome. Was quoted that figure from one of your customers! The hole is 4 inches from the compressor did you bother to find that out? Good way to make a grand for a new end. Seems I am budget and you are prevost proud--- I still own one or make that two and don't think they are a waste of money as per your previous post states. Correct? ModeraTORS PLEASE excuse me I do believe the facts I write are correct and actually come from reliable sources, I will not say any more. If D was close I would have removed end and repaired with krimped on sleeve/fitting as factory==cost dinner for two. Trying to save busnut $950. My bad. Ps I do make mistakes and do not in any way claim to know it all.I am willing to share what little I do. Busnut

Joe Camper · January 05, 2012, 07:03:59 AM

I do not even know how to respond to that.

Have a nice day

rv_safetyman · January 05, 2012, 07:08:42 AM

Back to the original question (hint hint).

The big issue is to find out why the hose leaks. If if it from abrasion, then repairing it via reusable fittings is a good alternative. If the failure is from heat (that is why the special hose is used), then you will need to be very careful about splicing the hose.

Also be aware that reusable couplings are generally manufacturer specific. If the hose is Aeroquip, you need their fittings, etc

We are only talking about 120 PSI, but we do not want a massive failure (complete separation of the hose).

If you choose to splice the hose, make the splice as far away as possible from the compressor (less heat damage to the hose) and then put a NEW hose from the compressor to the splice.

Jim

luvrbus · January 05, 2012, 07:24:45 AM

The way I would do it buy and install a heat transfer tube about 18 inches long and be done with cost you around 70 bucks Prevost are bad about losing that hose they get too hot there

www.aircomparts.com or something like that

good luck

Joe Camper · January 05, 2012, 07:42:35 AM

Bob would you please forward this thread to the mystery customer who paid me that fee. I suspect he should be very upset when he sees what I posted. Have him call so I can refund any overcharges.

Thanks again.

Getting back to the original thread, a great replacement for all the hose fasteners and clamps is plastic zip-ties with eyelets in them they are a great replacement for the old pot metal dipped in rubber style that either corode away or are impossible to remove without destroying them.

Luvrbus that is also a good upgrade but the photo looks like it rubbed thru.

luvrbus · January 05, 2012, 07:47:02 AM

They are not rubber Joe they will withstand the 400 degrees

good luck

robertglines1 · January 05, 2012, 07:49:27 AM

The hole is about 4 inches from compressor outlet where hoses crossed and rubbed through. enough slack in line to cut and add new end or as Clifford said just extend outlet from compressor and not have to worry about slack issue. I actually saw a picture/close up where you could determine problem. Odd enough I had the same problem in differant area on the 89 where same two hoses crossed near the rear mounted air compressor on the 8V92 (above bellhousing) 5 yrs ago removed floor and used aeroquip. all still holding both lines.