Series 60 injector help

Ericbsc · January 01, 2012, 06:14:41 PM

Started the bus for a drive christmas day and it ran like a 71 chevy with a fouled plug. The check engine light went on and off several times before I got around the block. Theprolink gave a code 61 (injector time long cylinder #4). Started the bus again and no code. Drove the same route with no miss or light. Went out today and when I started it up ran rough again. Waited a minute and got same code except on # 6. I ran diagnostics on the Injector response times. All are in the 1.04-1.1 times when I start up. Number 6 comes and goes. Starts at about 1.05. It may drop as low as .72 then it may not drop at all? I am reading anything fron a bad wiring harness to bad injector. Anybody else run into this??

luvrbus · January 02, 2012, 06:51:32 AM

I don't know about a 60 series Eric but on a 92 series the ground,alternator or voltage regulator will cause that also I check those first thing
are you having fun yet LOL

good luck

rv_safetyman · January 02, 2012, 07:40:50 AM

Eric, I don't know much about the injector electric operation, but I do know that low voltage to the ECM will cause the engine to run terrible. I have started mine a couple of times with a low battery (started OK) and I thought the engine had a major problem.

I have seen the voltage requirement for the ECM, but I don't recall the value. I do recall that it is not very forgiving.

Jim

uncle ned · January 02, 2012, 07:46:28 AM

I also had the same problem in my 93 s10 tow vehicle. It would run rough and every time i checked it there was a different code.

Contact cleaner and dielectric grease cured it. replaced several sensors before that.

Finally just went through every connection.

uncle ned

Ericbsc · January 02, 2012, 08:08:48 AM

Battery voltage may have hit on something!!! The bus has been sitting for a little while. I am going to charge the battery's and try it again. Clifford, I'm having a ball but I still think you need a vacation in SC so we can get the cruise working!!LOL

lostagain · January 02, 2012, 08:27:19 AM

I had the same symtoms a few years ago with the hockey team's bus with S60.

It was caused by corroded electrical connections at the batteries and ground connections at the front panel.

I had not thought of that till Jim mentionned it.

Clean them up good, and I bet it will fix it.

JC

Ericbsc · January 02, 2012, 05:58:23 PM

Got it fixed!!! Pulled the valve cover and checked the injector harness. Number 6 was the code. Touched the connector and the wire fell off! recrimp and solder. rUNS GREAT!! tHANKS FOR ALL THE INPUT!!

luvrbus · January 03, 2012, 05:06:43 AM

Eric,what are you using for cruise control switches did you build your own the reason I asked the school has a MCI you enable the cruise turn the enable switch off and the cruise will work on it but it will not engage with the enable switch on.

The driver told me it did it automatic for a while but now it has to be turn off on the dash,if you used controls from a truck they have a module that controls the gauges and cruise control

good luck

Ericbsc · January 03, 2012, 06:22:41 AM

I am using the cruise switch from the volvo truck that the motor came out of. It is the turn signal mount like gm used to use. It has on/resume/acc, and the set/coast button on the end. I have verified the signals with the prolink. The high idle uses the resume to idle up, and the set to idle down. It works as it should. In order to high idle the park brake must be on and the transmission in netural. If you turn the park brake off, or put it in gear the high idle drops out as it should. Jack said that on his if you push the service brake also his high idle drops out, but mine doesn't. The prolink shows the service brake going to ground when predded so I am assuming that is wired correctly also.