Heart invertor not charging???

[oldmansax]

I have a Heart Model 2400-12 inverter/charger on my BlueBird. It has been working fine. We took  a trip over Thanksgiving & I noticed it would not run my laptop computer. It would run the other 120 volt stuff (TV, VCR, Satellite modem) but when I plugged in the laptop power supply everything died. I know the laptop is OK because it works everywhere else.

Tonight when we got back I plugged into my 50 amp service at my shop & everything in the coach works but the battery charger on the Heart is not working. Both the remote interface & the lights on the Heart show AC on & I have all 120 volt stuff working in the coach. The AC indicator light keeps going from red to green & I can hear the charger sound like it is trying to come on but nothing happens. I have turned the charger off for tonight until I can check it out tomorrow.

This much I know:

The 50 amp service checks good.

I have almost new AGM batteries & see no obvious problems.

Cables & connections look good. Most are almost new.

Nothing obvious wrong with the Heart.

Nothing smells burnt.

Voltage on battery bank right now is 12.60 with quite a few 12 volt lights on & my Autonet modem.

Any Ideas???

TOM

[Bill B /bus]

I think you already know that the charger section is kaput. And or the relay controlling the charger might have failed.
Now you need a good repair shop.

Good luck
Bill

[bobofthenorth]

Give it a mighty slap Tom.  There's some relays in there that are a service item.  If it starts charging when you whack it then you need new relays.  I know where you can get that done in western Canada but that won't be a big help to you.

Don't be shy - hit the SOB.

[Joe Camper]

Good advice but do not hit it too hard.

The failure is a switch that looks like a large relay  and its located on the back of the front cover so that is why a whack may get it charging. Mine would not be beatin into submission but I know others that have been able to use that method to check it.

Pull the inverter and remove the cover, that is the front and the top. Mounted on the backside, mine was on top many are mounted back of the front, will be a clear plastic modular switch that you can see into, it will have exactly 9 wires going into it. Inside you will see 3 reeds with contacts on both ends of those reeds. Look very close at those contacts for pitting or burning. You may be able to file a bad contact enough to get it to work but you will need another.

The clear plastic cover can be removed and replaced without damage the switch is about the size of a large spool of thread and does look like an oversized relay.

Gusdorf Electronics Santa Fe NM That's your source I know he has them he bought a half doz when I ordered mine so he has more.

Chargers should NEVER kick out when a/c power is present. Repair should be about 40 bucks or so.

A good thing to do when you have opened up an inverter to verify it went back togeather correctly is to run d/c power to the inverter thru a 12 or 24 volt bulb depending on the inverter rating and have a very small load on the inverter. If things are correct it will work with dc going thru the bulb. If something is amiss you will blow the bulb instead of making smoke.

I practice this every time I have to open one up.

[Joe Camper]

Also on that Heart there will be plenty of extra lead to open the cover and flip it open sufficiantly.

Be very very sure when closing it up that that group of wires folds up nice, they go into the correct same void they were in to begin with and nothing is pinched or squeezed.

As your opening it do it slow and look see how it all lays in there so you know going back togeather.

[JackConrad]

When our heart inveter quit charging, I took it to a authorized repair facilty in Bradenton, FL. They had to replace the charging contol board. As soon as he opened the case, while I was there, he pointed and said "there is your problem" 2 of the FETs on the board were burned. Like almost all other repairs facilities (including Onan, Dometic, DuoTherm, etc.) they do not repair boards, only replace them.  Jack

[oldmansax]

Thanks for all the info! I will take a cursory look at it this afternoon. It's probably going to have to wait until later in the week for extensive exploration 'cause I've got to catch  up on everything that didn't get done while I was gone.

I'll post the findings later.

THANKS!

TOM

[Joe Camper]

"Jack what did  that new board cost you 1000? Just guessing and curious"

It was several years ago, but I think it was about 300-350 including installation.  Jack

[Joe Camper]

If I was half ambitious I would make a thread with photos of putting a motherboard back into a Heart, Im hopfully doing it today.

Its Debbies BD and we have 1 of our grandaughters coming with her parents, christmas decorations are going up.

I cannot decide if I want to mess with the train set or the inverter

Its gonna be a good day regardless.

[Joe Camper]

O/K just got done reviewing my notes with a inverter on the bench with some rebuilt components and the test light trick that I mentioned prevoiusly in this thread was a bit incomplete and incorrect.

Anyone thinking they may open one up should copy this and stick it with your inverter stuff.


A safety light that is the same voltage as the battery bank is used as a protection when turning on an inverter that is in an unknown condition. It current limits the inverter's draw on the batteries. The safety light is connected in series with the positive post of the battery and the positive post of the inverter. If a 50 watt bulb is used on a 12 volt bank of batteries the limit is 4 amps when the light is on full intensity.  If the safety light comes on at all during initial testing up to 7.5 watt load on inverters output there is a problem with the unit or wiring that NEEDS TO BE CORRECTED BEFORE PROCEDING with the test procedures.

(With some inverters a 50 watt bulb may start to glow after several seconds. Don't panic; try 100 watts)

Do not connect the inverter if it does not pass this test.

Next with the safety light still in series connect the a/c input with a 5 amp fuse and make sure the charger and transfer work without blowing the 5 amp fuse. Charger will cause the safety light to glow dimly.

[oldmansax]

OK folks.....

I whacked it pretty good & nothing changed.    I disconnected the remote & nothing changed.    I whacked it with the remote disconnected & nothing changed.   

I hooked up a small float charger just to keep the batteries up for now. It's plugged in at the shop so I don't need the inverter. I have a 1000 watt Vanner inverter/charger I will try to install temporarily this week & check out the Heart at the same time.  It's gonna be a busy week so I'm not sure when I will get time to look at it.

I'll post what I find & decide where to go from there.

Thanks for all the help & info so far

TOM

[JackConrad]

"Jack what did  that new board cost you 1000? Just guessing and curious"

It was several years ago, but I think it was about $300-350 including installation.
Joe, I clicked on the wrong "button" and messed up your post. Sorry  Jack

[oldmansax]

I took the cover off the inverter & can't find any contactors that can be serviced. I am attaching some pics so maybe someone can head me in the right direction.

TOM

[bobofthenorth]

Sorry Tom for misleading you.  That doesn't even look a little bit like the inside of my Freedom 25.

Well maybe a LITTLE bit but definitely a lot different.

[Joe Camper]

Tom if you look on the green motherboard on that one there is 3 black relays attached to 1 end of the board. I believe those are what is suppose to be making the auto switch.

On many where the transformer is mounted to the inside top on yours will be a stand alone relay/switch, many suggested you knock it there, but no matter you are on the right path.

505 983 4095 Gustorf Electronics if he can he will give you a test procedure over the phone and either narrow it down enough for you or you can remove the board and ship it to him for repair