Towing a Full Sized Conversion Van (as long as we are talking about towing)

[Seangie]

Anyone ever tow a full sized conversion van?  We have a Dodge B1500 - Conversion Van that we'd like to try and tow.  According to the Remco site above it wasn't really clear to me as I am new to this and the answer was -

"Check front and rear ujoints for internal clip style or external snap ring. Drive shafts over 67" furnished only as a stub kit for local manufacture."

It seems they are saying to disconnect the drive shaft or add a kit to do so?

I'd be grateful to anyone one with experience with this or that can provide clarity.

Thanks.

-Sean

[Oonrahnjay]

     Hey, Sean.  I don't have any experience with this type of driveshaft/transmission layout, but everything about this seems to me that they're saying that you will have to put in a driveshaft disconnect -- a mechanism that allows you to disengage the driveshaft when you're towing and then reconnect it when you want to drive the van.  Otherwise, they wouldn't care what kind of driveshaft connection to U-joints, how long the driveshaft is, etc.
     Just a guess on my part, but it seems that way to me.  BH  NC   USA

[rv_safetyman]

I agree that it sounds like you need a drive shaft disconnect.  With that installed, you should not have drive train problem.

There are other issues.

One is the weight.  The largest capacity tow bar that I know of is 10K.  You are probably OK **IF** you don't load up the van.  I would still have it weighed to be sure.  

Obviously you will need to add a good auxiliary braking system to the van.  

Lastly you will need to have a very substantial trailer hitch on the bus.  I learned the hard way that there is a big bending moment on the hitch when you turn corners.

When I wrote my article on towing safety in BCM, I made a strong argument for using Grade 70 safety chains for heavy towed vehicles.  The cables that the tow bar folks sell are pretty marginal.

Jim

[bevans6]

Most places (states, provinces) are letting towed vehicles (as opposed to towed trailers) get away with no remote braking system.  The issue for me isn't braking while traveling as much as it is breakaway braking if the towed vehicle gets loose.  Also, while your automatic transmission van needs the drive-shaft disconnected while towing, the Remco is just the neat and easy way to do that.  On a van it's easy to shimmy underneath and disconnect the driveshaft at the rear diff, and strap it up.  And since the whole issue is internal lubrication of the transmission you can achieve that by running the engine at idle with the transmission in neutral while you are towing.  It all kind of depends on your attitude and frame of mind...

Brian

[robertglines1]

? Can the hitch on my bus pull and stop that much weight?  Can the frame of my bus stand up to the extra stress? what kind of bus and what kind of hitch?  No free ride will cost extra fuel maybe over a mile per gallon.  Just some ?  to ask.   Bob

[luvrbus]

Better buy you a bus with something besides a 8V71 n/a engine they are not happy campers with 10,000 lbs on the rear.

I know you can find it some where on how to do it people have been flooding (overfilling) the automatic transmissions for years to tow and have about 25 bucks in their systems a all wheel drive nothing you can do but trailer it

good luck

[prevosman]

In the past our toads were under 4000 pounds. They towed easily.

Now we tow a H2 Hummer that weighs 6700 pounds. Momma wants the protection that offers her when she is on the road so when we travel that becomes our toad. It would not be my choice.

Weight is the enemy. It takes power to start rolling and the more weight the more power required. Ditto with hill climbing. When slowing or stopping a supplemental brake system is necessary and when descending hills you kow you are being pushed, even if the jake or retarder are doing their job.

I tow the Hummer to keep peace in the family. Given my druthers I would be towing the lightest thing possible that fits four adults and that required no modifications for towing except a tow bar and light connections. To select a toad before having the coach is probably not how I would approach it either. Having a heavy toad almost dictates the coach selected has to have gobs of horsepower and torque eliminating some coaches that might otherwise be excellent choices.

[Ed Hackenbruch]

I strongly recommend a braking system for 2 reasons. The first is if you are involved in any kind of an accident, ( your fault of not), and they find out that you don't have it, you may have some legal problems, (fines, lawsuits,) to face.  Secondly, they do make a difference in slowing down the bus. The day after we had ours installed we headed north and gone about 50 miles when a couple in a car decided to pass a semi with 2 trailers. I had to hit the brakes about the hardest that i ever have in the bus to keep from hitting them head on. I could feel the brakes on the jeep helping to slow me down,.....i think it was what saved us from killing them, us, the truck driver, and some of the people in the other 3-4 cars that were all tailgating him at the time. After our heart rates got back down, and i could talk, i told my wife that the braking system had just paid for itself!!!  Third thing, ( i know, i said 2 earlier)  It gives you added braking coming down hills.

[buswarrior]

An H2 for protection?

Who has that old picture of a Dodge Ram and H2 in a head on collision?

The H2 was WIPED OUT.

Yes, I know where you areat, spend some forced time there myself.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[Rick 74 MC-8]

I agree with supplemental breaking helps a lot. I pulled a little jeep wrangler. My braking System is activated by  my brake lights on the bus I had that connection fail I could feel the difference immediately The next time I try to stop



                      Rick 74-mc 8

[luvrbus]

We had the M&G system on the Lexus but I wore out 2 Jeep Wranglers without any type supplemental system lol

good luck

[thomasinnv]

It's funny all the answers you hear about supplemental braking being required/not required. Each state has their own regulations concerning supplemental braking. Some states do not require it regardless of weight. some do require it , regardless of weight; and most fall somewhere in the middle. Most but not all states are reciprocal concerning braking requirements, but most are NOT reciprocal concerning maximum combined towing length. The link below spells it out state by state. Don't guess, know the facts.

http://www.readybrake.com/state_laws.html

BTW, don't every one jump on the "safety band wagon" on me. I am simply providing the link as to the LEGAL REQUIREMENTS. Beyond that, you do what makes you feel safe.

[robertglines1]

Few buses were designed to pull anything! Most rear frame assemblies were designed to hold the engine in place.  The 98 Prevost XLE I have was designed with a 20,000lb hitch from the factory.  Know your bus and what it's limitations are.  I have tested the unknown. Sorry ---be safe---and wise----generally lighter is better for safety and economy.  Bob 

[Joe Camper]

Better buy you a bus with something besides a 8V71 n/a engine they are not happy campers with 10,000 lbs on the rear.

Luvrbus the quick fix to this is on the big hills put your other half behind the wheel of the toad engage the driveshaft throw it in drive and use it for a push. Be sure to have here sit on her hands so she does not get the urge to steer.


Just kidding

[Bill 340]

we tow a full size ford econoline van, Fully loaded aprox 5500lb,  use a remco driveshaft disconnect and a blue ox air brake,  now pulling with a series 60. had an *71 with 4sp spicer before that and It towed fine, just had to keep the speed and rpms up, Will be at the Arcadia rally with that set up, if you want to see it,