Calling Prevost Electric Guys for help

[Skykingrob]

I am in the process of moving my voltage regulator and all the associated hardware from the factory installed area in the rear bay to the passenger side near the engine so I can install the fresh and blackwater tanks in the bay. In doing so, I had to remove the batteries, voltage regulator, vanners, etc. I took a pic but it is so out of focus that I cannot see how to wire the batteries back but there is a diagram on the battery door, so, I think I can figure out how to wire them back but it would be good if someone has a diagram or picture. But what is not listed on the diagram is how to wire two vanner voltmaster inverters that I also had to move. They require a ground, which shouldn't be hard to figure out but they also require a 24 volt input cable from battery to vanner and a 12 volt output vanner to battery connection. The 12 volt supplies power to the ATEC DDEC and the headlights. I don't remember where to attach the 24 volt input cable and 12 volt output cables to the batteries. Can someone look at the wiring diagram in the pics provided and tell me where to attach them, please? Ya, I know I should have marked them as I took them off and I wouldn't have to ask but I thought I could remember. I now know differently. Thanks for your help.
PS. Because I cannot get the pictures to load, I have asked Nick to attach them to the thread.

Rob
91 Prevost XL 40
Missouri

[robertglines1]

prevost car web site---tech pub-- put in  XL40   go to wiring diagram set D060873 will give you all the info for your bus. If you want to print whole manual/list go to end of list and hit print pdf about 80 pages. other wise use index and print pages you need. If I remember rite they are near the end  the batt lay out /vanner etc.   bob

[Ace]

FWIW for anyone that owns or works on a Prevost coach and is in need of factory info as suggested above and recently on other post, all you have to do is call Prevost and ask whoever answers the phone to send you a Prevost parts CD! It's free and can and will save you time not to mention headaches! Again, it's Free but you have to ask for it and it's mailed directly to you!

[prevosman]

Start here.......

http://prevostparts.volvo.com/technicalpublications/en/wiring.asp

The batteries and the Vanner(s) need to be wired exactly as shown or you could experience problems with starting or not charging the batteries. You likely have DDECII, and without looking at your specific diagram I suspect CB19, 20 and 21 might be powered directly from your batteries and do not go through the master shut off switches. Don't take my word for it. Verify what I am guessing.

FWIW later model coaches went from 2 50 amp Vanners to 1 100 amp Vanner so make sure you use the revision level on the diagrams that matches your coach by serial number.

[Joe Camper]

Is their anyone out there who has ever encountered an XL or XLV that has a similar setup.

I have never seen one with this stuff mounted in the rear bay. Even our 85 has these components already mounted in the engine comp pass side door on the bulkhead where Rob is moving things to.

Seems odd to me to find these components mounted anywhere else.

[robertglines1]

Joe the 89 XL I have is in rear bay.  Bob

[prevosman]

Would I be correct in assuming the bus started life as a seated coach and the space conversion folks such as Joe see as for batteries and the like is used for the restroom holding tank?

Regardless, it doesn't matter where stuff is located as long as it is wired correctly.

[Skykingrob]

Hi Guys
Thanks for the replys. Yes, my coach started life as a seated coach and all of the stuff was mounted in the last bay just in front of the duals. All nice and cozy there except I couldn't access it if I put tanks in, soooo, it had to be moved. I have spoken to Prevost and they have sent me a CD as Ace suggested but when I looked at it, I could not find the diagrams to show where the vanners were attached and after reading other threads from Prevosman about miswires, I didn't want to chance wiring it wrong and "letting the smoke out", especially with vanners as expensive as they are. I am using a 100 amp vanner to convert a 4024 output to 12 volt to run the 12 volt house system and that little vanner cost a cool $700. Bob and Prevosman, thanks for the tech link. I am suprised Prevost did not give that to me as many times as I have talked to them for parts, etc; they never mentioned it. Prevosman is also right in that mine still has the "restroom tank" in place. Cutting it out was, well aaaa, just not in the cards, first because it was to many welds and second, it just had this odor that you couldn't describe after being run down the Las Vegas strip as a casino runner for nearly 20 years. I opted to leave it in place, drain it, of course, and fill it in with rock wool insulation.

Rob
91 Prevost LeMirage XL40
Missouri

[scanzel]

I have a 1989 Prevost that was a coach and yes everything is in the last bay between the duals in a cabinet. I thought of moving everything and after looking at what is there I chose to go with a combo black/gray tank that is 72"L 24"WX16"H. The water tank will be the second bay from the front in the middle to help distribute the weight when filled. I am removing the hinged access battery door and making one that screws on for access. I have enough room for access to the batteries if they need replacing. The Proheat and water heater will go into the same bay as the fresh water tank on the drivers side. The two front bays will have the generator and house batteries. I chose to keep otr air so those bays are still used by the heat/air system. The bathroom wasn't that hard to remove the first holding tank was cleaned and filled with spray foam and covered with plywood, the overflow tank was removed. Not sure what will go in the empty space, maybe a cabinet for my propane tank.

[prevosman]

Rob,

I have zero experience converting a seated coach to a motorhome, but I cannot imagine Prevost has made the holding tank a permanent part of the structure. Even if it is welded in place I would consider bay space so valuable I would work to cut it out, and then relocate the chassis batteries, Vanner, voltage regulator, etc. to the space now occupied by the holding tank. That last bay is vital for holding the heavy stuff like holding tanks, generator, etc to keep the weight where the axles are rated to carry it.

By leaving the stuff in that bay ahead of the drive axle you are tipping the first domino in what is sure to become a series of compromises that may leave your conversion less satisfactory. Trust me when I say that professional converters such as Marathon. Liberty, Country Coach, etc have perfected the use of space and it would benefit you greatly if you take the time to study how they have arranged bay space. Plagarism is a good thing when it comes to doing the conversion yourself. Without stealing someone else's good ideas you are doomed to either reinvent the wheel or repeat mistakes others have made.

[Skykingrob]

Jon
I think you may have misunderstood what I was trying to say or I didn't say it very clearly. The OTR coach potty tanks are welded in place in the passenger side very rear compartment right next to the engine. Those are the tanks I chose not to remove and like Scanzel, just filled in and covered over. Essentially those tanks are right below where the bathroom was when I removed it.
The 4th bay is now clear to put big water and combo black/gray tanks in place after moving the regulator/vanners/circuit breakers, etc.
Thanks for the help guys.

Rob
91 Prevost LeMirage XL40
Missouri

[prevosman]

Rob,

I thought I understood what you said. My reasons for suggesting that despite the effort involved in its removal, going to the effort of cutting the holding tank out offers you some dividends. It opens up space for the chassis batteries and other related electrical components. It shifts some weight to the rear, which on a well equipped conversion is important because steer axles of that vintage were not rated for what they are on today's coaches.

It completely opens up the last bay and with the holding tank out of there is gives you better access to the side of the engine. As every owner has known space is important. Cutting out the holding tank provides useable space. If it wasn't so important a lot of owners would be leaving the over the road heat and air in place, but they obviously consider the extra space more important.

Keep in mind however I have a "take no prisoners" perspective on our coach. I will not tolerate any loss of comfort, convenience, or ability to have what I want and need with me when I travel. Other are more comfortable with less, but at this point in my life I am not one of them.