Securing the Fridge.

[Chaz]

Hey Guys,
I bought the little 10 cu.ft (I think it is) that some of you recommended. I think it may just be the hot ticket.  (as long as Murphy doesn't rear his ugly head!)
I am working on moving it across the isle to the passenger side from where the old one was and will put up a wall between it and the salon. Basically, it will have it's own little cubby hole. But my question is: How do I keep it from possibly tipping out on an occasion where I would have to swerve or something? About the only thing I can think is epoxy an angle strip with loops welded to it along the top back edge and cable it to the wall. I'm 100% confident it would work but I'm open for suggestions.
It's either that or build a shelf close over top of it but.....................
It's also on two rollers that make it easy to move and that concerns me as well, altho, I can screw down a strip in front of it for that.
Thanx a bunch!
  Chaz

[grantgoold]

I purchased marine hatch latches (stainless) with a pull pin. They have worked famously!

Check ebay!

Grant

[robertglines1]

Think you have it keep fit tight and strip in front of it.  4200 cars and camping (dry on grounds) ck on price tomorrow for you.  Bob   Explanation: Chaz was thinking about coming to our little car show this weekend. Pre 48 streetrod

[bobofthenorth]

As Bob said, a tight fitting cabinet is the first line of defense.  If its tight enough then the fridge can't tip out - it will have to slide out.  Stopping it from sliding is much easier than stopping it from tipping.  On the boat I used L-brackets top and bottom inside that tight cabinet.  I can't remember whether it was top or bottom that I was able to use the hinge bolts as attachment points. 

[Mex-Busnut]

So here is a related question: Does a built-in fridge designed for house use (as opposed to and RV fridge) need any kind of ventilation for the back end? If so, how are you doing that on a built-in fridge?

[artvonne]

  Ive been contemplating the same issue, and thought I would through bolt it from under the floor in the cargo bay.

  Which fridge did you get? I keep looking at a lil Samsung at Lowes, 9.7cf or thereabouts, with the condensor coil hanging off the back. It would need some venting to operate right.

[Melbo]

My angle brackets are behind the fridge and just slip over the top with screws going down into the top of the fridge.

The front feet have holes with screws that go into the floor

Both attachment points are discreet and the counter top and wall are on each side to keep the forward and rearward movement from happening.

Only issue I ever had was a sharp corner at a backward angle and the front tire rolled off the pavement and it came back up it opened the door on the fridge.

Other than that I have not secured the door closed and have had no issues.

HTH

YMMV

Melbo

[belfert]

The steel on modern fridges is so thin that just bolting it to the floor through the steel already on the fridge isn't going to work in case of an accident.  The bolts will tear through the steel or the steel will just rip loose.

[artvonne]

  Brian while the cabinet is pretty thin sheet metal, I was talking about the framing at the bottom where the feet attach. Just remove the feet and fasten it to the floor at those points. And while the cabinet is thin, you can still secure it with brackets if they are securely attached. Think about aircraft, they are thin sluminum like a pop can, but incredibly strong. Between the floor attachment and the surrounding cabinet it should be well secured. I think.

[Dreamscape]

We have the same fridge, secured it by drilling two holes in the bottom at the rear in the frame, through the floor. I used larger washers to spread the load. The fit is pretty tight side to side and top to bottom. We removed a Norcold, so the vents were already there. It has worked for a little over 1 1/2 years flawlessly. Just use a bungie cord top to bottom to keep the doors from opening.

I'm sure there are others ways, just our way!

Before I finished the trim, so it's not complete OK.



We have a door underneath for our vac hose. The old fridge is still there.

[belfert]

The "frame" of a fridge was never designed to hold the entire weight of the fridge.  From what I have seen the attachment of the steel to the rest of the fridge isn't that great.

[Van]

Chaz, built ours into our pantry. Bottom shelf 5" off the floor(like Paul's) and hollowed out so the legs and rollers drop snug into the shelf allowing the front and sides to rest flat on shelf, also allowing air to enter underneath. 2" space behind fridge. The top is sandwiched with a shelf that extends only to the rear of the unit, anchored to the top of the fridge as well as into the pantry cabinet itself. The shelf above that extends all the way back to the wall creating an area for the venting heat. I will eventually would like to add a lil' box fan to assist in the venting, finally finishing up with the face trim. YMMV but is the ideal set up for our needs, hope this helps you out. Good luck!

Oh! the small space above the fridge will have a grill over it with a flip up door covering the compartment above that . Now I have to learn how to make cabinet doors!

   Van

[white-eagle]

Ours is built snugly with a trim frame around the front which looks good and keeps it inside the compartment.  We have the microwave built in above it.  After having pulled it once when we had to re-do the rotted floor, i know it is NOT bolted in anywhere directly to the fridge.  But the cabinetry is floor to ceiling and it can't slide forward without ripping out a lot of wood.  Since Eagles don't lean sideways on airbags, i'm not too worried about it tipping out toward the stove. ;-)

[luvrbus]

The big guys don't secure a side mount electric fridge only a forward facing electric fridge the cabinet and the trim will hold a side mounted without problems YMMV I have saw one with Velcro on the top and it wasn't doing any good  

good luck

[Chaz]

Thanx Guys.
The Whirlpool instructions say "1/2" either side, 1" on the rear and 3" over the top clearance". I also want to put the Micro on top and I don't have as much clearance as most of you. So, I guess I am going to keep the shelf forward from the wall so air can come out from behind as I can not afford 3" of clearance on top. Plus, as you say, keeping it close should keep it from tipping out. I will "block" the bottom from rolling altho I will look into how Melbo did his as well.

Thanx for the update Bob!!!!!! Wish I was there!! But, this is a fun project too. When this is done and installed, I can start wall papering.

Thanx Guys!!!!
 Chaz