8V71 engine service

[bevans6]

"there was no screen under my blower, just on top of it. I ordered the screen shown under the blower in the parts manual, but when it came it was the screen on the top. There supposed to be another screen under it?"

My parts book shows both screens have the same part number - 5128033.  MCI part book FWIW so it may not be a DD part number, but both screens are identical as far as it's concerned.

Edit:  the more I use it the more I have to say I love the parts book!  the exploded parts diagrams have been extremely useful when you took something apart 8 months ago and have never put it together before!   

Brian

[artvonne]

I have never noticed that 40 weight oil was any more expensive than any other oil, but maybe.  Try Walmart, mine carries Techtron 40W CF2 in stock.  $39 for a five gallon pail, that's $1.95 a quart which strikes me as cheap as heck.

Brian

 Any idea how much oil it needs to reach the pickup? If its just idling and not moving, it doesnt need to have a full 10 gallons in it.

[luvrbus]

Walmart just carries the 30w here in the states Brian the Techtron is Citgo oil good stuff  

good luck

[TomC]

Nothing better then having everything in the engine compartment rebuilt.  Everything in my engine compartment has been rebuilt-except the oil cooler on the engine-which is now leaking.  Going to take it to Don Fairchild in a couple of weeks-and since it is a V drive, probably will pull the whole engine/transmission cradle out (transit bus) to make it easier to access (about a 2 hour job). 

It's ironic how not rebuilding one component will come back and bite you in the butt.  Same thing happened after I in frame rebuilt my Caterpillar 3406B in my big truck.  The water pump was fine, and didn't replace it.  And sure enough about 6 months later it quit working-the impeller spun on the shaft.

So I would pull the engine, take it completely apart, measure and inspect all components and replace what is worn or close to needing replacing-including the transmission.  Then you'll have real piece of mind.  Finding a 2 stroke mechanic on the road-especially where you decide to break down is becoming a real challenge.  Or-just replace the engine with a 4 stroker and be done with it.  Good Luck, TomC

[luvrbus]

Yea replace it with a 4 stroke won't cost much with different transmission and rear gear you should be able to do all that for around 40'g lol.
I know of a Eagle the guy spent 71,000 for that swap sold the bus for in the 80's made a lot of sense to me lol and forget about the 10mpg without driving 50 mph 

good luck

[rampeyboy]

Being a flat lander, I actually thought about purchasing a spare 8V71 from someone who is "upgrading" to a big 4 stroke. Of course, I'm not talking about a worn out core, but a good running take out. But, then I have to make room to store it and at the moment I have enough stuff to spend money on!

Boyce

[Dreamscape]

I'll have a good running take out 8v71n after I replace it with the same, it will be available next June or July. It will be mated to a 4 speed spicer. So there ya go, find some room!

It will be located in Vancouver, WA if you're interested.

[rampeyboy]

HAHA, maybe if I get mine roadworthy by then, that would be a good shake down cruise! SC to WA on first road trip. Put the 8V71 in the luggage bay and head back to SC!

Boyce

[Brassman]

How about a 6V92?

http://www.publicsurplus.com/sms/auction/view?auc=604265

[artvonne]

  Not overhauling, just freshening, cleaning, repairing, painting, new hoses, seals, gaskets, etc..  Im more interested in finding the silent killers we keep reading about.

 
 
 

[artvonne]

Yea replace it with a 4 stroke won't cost much with different transmission and rear gear you should be able to do all that for around 40'g lol.
I know of a Eagle the guy spent 71,000 for that swap sold the bus for in the 80's made a lot of sense to me lol and forget about the 10mpg without driving 50 mph 

good luck

  Not much sense putting a fortune into something you cant sell for much more than scrap today. Made some sense a few years ago when they were worth something and selling, but not today. Can buy a lot of fuel for $40K, lol

[thomasinnv]

"there was no screen under my blower, just on top of it. I ordered the screen shown under the blower in the parts manual, but when it came it was the screen on the top. There supposed to be another screen under it?"

My parts book shows both screens have the same part number - 5128033.  MCI part book FWIW so it may not be a DD part number, but both screens are identical as far as it's concerned.

I ordered the screen using the number out of the MCI parts book, and verified the part number attached to the screen when it got here. My book shows different part numbers for the screen above and the screen below. I dunno? I even went back over my notes and made sure I wrote down the correct number. I guess now I have another reason to remove my blower again. It strikes me as strange that there was not a screen under it to begin with, but the book clearly shows one. What say the Yoda?

[luvrbus]

Don't worry about it Derrick I have some underneath blower screens hanging in the shop they are larger than the top screen,the top screen is a must with a turbo,your Jakes will be here Friday Ed told me

good luck

[thomasinnv]

Hey Clifford, that 2 day layover at the "clifford rv resort and bus garage" seems to be getting longer. You like rainbow trout? I may have to throw some your way.

[JohnEd]

Art,

he oil vscosity and pressure and bearing area and..... is designed for that engine making max HP and pistol hot under full load.  My feeling (got that part) is that a D isn't all that much different than a gasser in many respects.  40 wt is what you need for it to work.  It would probably idle warm for 20 years if it weren't for the 2 strokes bad idle habits.  I have done many engines this way:  Over fill....just add...a couple gallons of D fuel.  Run her warm at fast idle and drain.  Change filters.  Clifford says the galleys don't drain without removing a plug inside the crank case.  I would refill with fresh oil and filters and rely on the D in the galleys being purged naturally.

There is a PM that calls for the bearings being replaced every 100K or whatever...check Da Book.  Regardless, drop the pan and mic the bearings.  That is the opportunity to drain the galleys.

By dramatically overfilling you get that crank case thrashing D diluted oil aroung there at warp speed.  Everything gets sparkly clean and the warm oil drain takes it out.  For a new car (new to me) I add a quart of methanol to the crank case of a cold engine and start and head for the freeway and high rpm and a quick warm up.  The meth is gone in 5 minutes under load.  That takes all the varnish out as the D won't touch that.  I don't really care about the interior looks but the additives in the oil "try" to remove that stuff and get really tired quick so getting it clean to start is my procedure.  A D engine might try to run away with meth in the oil and that sure needs to be considered.

You are a man after my own heart in some regards.  I also have taken down engines to "look around and be sure".  Then I fed them all the best stuff and drove'em like I stole 'em.  Oh to be young again.

Good luck and enjoy the adventure,

If you can find an aftercooler and your block will allow it to be mounted I would do that.

With all the filth you are talking about I would go to the nearest truck garage and get the bay STEAM cleaned.  Let them deal with the mess and crap that comes off.  They are the "professionals".  NOTHING takes care of this kind of job other than high pressure steam.....nothing.  They add caustic base to the steam water mix at the gun.  When they are done it doesn't even feel slick.  You should be paint ready for any bare metal that shows up that the grime was preserving.


John