Can I use tap water to flushing cooling system?

[JohnEd]

I'm about to flush my system as well to install a new cooling system, so I got a question: can you simply take out the two thermostats to make flushing easier? I'm hoping this saves the time and fuel to run it up to operating temp every time.

I'm also thinking of using my shopvac to blow out the excess water during the final flush.

Also, would vinegar (acedic acid I believe?) be more effective at removing water deposits?


Thanks

I think that isn't a good idea.  the stats cause the engine to warm faster.  They don't impede the draining any at all.

John

[desi arnaz]

how do i tell if it is the oil cooler? would the fluid be oily?  how much is an oil cooler? is it a part of the radiator??  it really just looked dirty. i will loook at it when i drain out the pure water.another ? is the block aluminum or Steele?

[chev49]

winco is charging 30 cents a gallon in oregon for the RO water. Us hicks in the country buy it, cause even with filters and water softers, the well water is a bit strange...

[belfert]

I'm about to flush my system as well to install a new cooling system, so I got a question: can you simply take out the two thermostats to make flushing easier? I'm hoping this saves the time and fuel to run it up to operating temp every time.

I'm also thinking of using my shopvac to blow out the excess water during the final flush.

Also, would vinegar (acedic acid I believe?) be more effective at removing water deposits?


Thanks

I think that isn't a good idea.  the stats cause the engine to warm faster.  They don't impede the draining any at all.

The problem when doing a flush is you have to wait until the engine is warm enough for the stats to open before you can shut down and drain the coolant.  It seems to be if the stats were removed you wouldn't have to run the engine very long between flush cycles.

[belfert]

I'll use tap water to flush the system, but I was still unclear about filtered versus distilled water for mixing with the coolant.  I ended up calling Valvoline (makes of Zerex) and they recommended distilled water.

I'm going to try and get as much water out of the system as possible after flushing so my 50/50 ratio is as close as possible.

[Melbo]

I always use distilled water with the antifreeze BUT as a PERSONAL preference I AVOID RO filtered water.

I have noticed that RO water does some strange things to the metal drain pipes and I am not sure how close the relationship is to the water but better safe than sorry.

Just my way

HTH

YMMV

Melbo

[TomC]

I think someone is smoking something funny-distilled water is 100% with no minerals-how can that be acidic?  If it was virtually all our Navy fleet using steam turbine engines would be in a world of hurt. The nuclear powered ships use their tremendous heat production to distill water from the sea.  They in turn use that distilled water in the steam turbines.  Distilled water is the most mineral free water you can buy.  Even RO can still have some minerals in it.  Good Luck, TomC
P.S: I use regular Prestone antifreeze in my Caterpillar 3406C-but with a water filter and check for acidity in the water-using Nacool treatment to counteract the acid.  By the way my Cat engine has over 1.2 million on it.  Good Luck, TomC

[Lin]

I'm not sure you are right on this one, Tom.  Although I do not understand the chemistry too well, distillation does not guaranty Ph neutral water.  As I understand it, distilled water is usually slightly acidic (with a Ph reading below 7).  Water in general, just happens to be corrosive probably for several different factors.  This can vary from sample to sample, but it is pretty much a given.  Now, that is not to say we should not try to limit how corrosive it is.  Anyone that has a pool or a hot tube knows that they are supposed to be bringing the Ph into a particular range since perfection is rather difficult to accomplish.  That range limits, but does not absolutely negate the corrosive effects of the water.  However, if you can keep that balance, the system can last for an awfully long time.  I suspect it is similar with engines.  Do the right thing, and they are likely to last far longer than if you ignore all the various things that attack it; but it will not last for eternity.  Newton and Murphy will catch up with it sometime.

Generally, when I see premixed coolant, it claims to use deionized water.  I do not know the benefits of that either.

[RoyJ]

The problem when doing a flush is you have to wait until the engine is warm enough for the stats to open before you can shut down and drain the coolant.  It seems to be if the stats were removed you wouldn't have to run the engine very long between flush cycles.

I just flushed my cooling system 2 days ago, which is part of my custom radiator buildup.

I ended up removing the 2 thermostats, and it made flushing MUCH easier. I basically stuck a garden hose into the rad fill port, and unhooked the top rad hose (the one that normally leads to the rad), and let the engine run untill the sediments are out (I drained the initial coolant into a bucket of course).

The only problem is, I believe the back pressure caused by the thermostat is what forces water into the heater loop. Without the stats, no matter what I tried I couldn't get the heater loop to circulate. So I ended up unhooking the 1" heater hose, and stuck a garden hose into it. Hosly smokes does the heater fill up with rust and other crap! Couldn't believe what came out, and how long it took for the water to run clear.

I used the shopvac to blow out all the water out of the engine and heater loop. This is easily done without the thermostats, saves me having to drain the block using the block drain plugs. Overall, I'd highly recommend this procedure to fellow busnuts!


BTW, my little 6V71 doesn't have a "crossover" exhaust pipe, the bus is dual exhaust, this makes the top of the engine very accessible. I don't know if this is the case with other setups.

[belfert]

I ended up removing the 2 thermostats, and it made flushing MUCH easier. I basically stuck a garden hose into the rad fill port, and unhooked the top rad hose (the one that normally leads to the rad), and let the engine run untill the sediments are out (I drained the initial coolant into a bucket of course).

This sounds like an interesting idea that I'll probably use.  It sure saves on filling and then emptying the system a whole bunch of times.  In my case I am trying to get rid of the old green antifreeze before I put in new red extended life coolant.  I have already drained over 10 gallons of coolant and I have a bit more to go.  I'm not doing this because the system is dirty or anything.  I already replaced the coolant four years ago when I replaced the radiator and water pump.

[belfert]

On a related note, my Series 60 service manual says the thermostat housing seals have to be replaced if the thermostat housing is opened up.  Do I really have to replace these if I remove the thermostat temporarily?

It looks like to replace these I would need to take the housing with me to get the seals as a special tool is required to install them.

[busnut104]

Had a dump truck with a 8v-71 I bought the truck in 84 and just sold it this spring, never had any thing in it but the good old green Preston in it. I changed it about ever 5 to 6 years.