Choice of air filter - Donaldson Eco?

[bevans6]

I am looking in the Donaldson air filter catalog - 171 pages! - and trying to see what air filter I should order for my 8V71T re-power.  I took the MCI filter housing out (four bolts, 90 seconds, biggest trick was not getting hit on the head when it put a dent in my muffler cover - that thing is heavy!) and I see that the stock plenum intake is 20" by 2" or thereabouts, but the internal restrictions back up to the stock air intake beside the radiator are likely a lot less.

What is a recommended air filter in the Donaldson Eco line?  I figure around 1,000 CFM, and I would like to have a take-ff for the air compressor.  Can I use the stock air intake plenum, or would that be silly?

Thanks, Brian

[luvrbus]

Brian, the 8v71 N/A requires 900 cfm you need around 1300+ cfm for your turbo job according to my DD manual

good luck

[Don Fairchild]

Brian, that engine will flow 1250 cfm intake and 3000 cfm exhaust. You need more than a 2" inlet opening for that engine. In this case more IS better.

Hope this helps

Don

[bevans6]

When I look at the various filters, I think they come with the housing and everything.  I then need to pick the elbows, the reducers etc to get it to the turbo inlet.  Is there an option to have a small take-off for the compressor, or do I build in a tee somewhere?  So I basically just pick one that is 1300 - 1500 cfm, has the inlet and outlet where I think I need them, and that's it?

Brian

[luvrbus]

That is all there is to it BTW the ECO is the best filter on the market for a turbo 2 stroke

good luck

[lostagain]

I have been using a Eco filter. Flows 1300 cfm. That is for my 6V92TA. I could go to the bus and look up the model no. if you need. It is a nice filter because it is simple, all in one, throw away when dirty. It flows lots of air for its size. I would use a 1500 cfm, but I don't really have the space for it. I buy them from Inland/Kenworth for $140 + taxes.

The problem with an MC5 is the air intake being low: sharing with the left rad intake, is it sucks in a lot of dust. The rad blowers kick up a lot of dust from below the engine. If, like me living on a dirt road, you drive in dusty conditions, even only occasionally, the Eco filter doesn't last long. I made a pre-fiter out of house furnace filter that I soak in oil and place into the intake upstream from the Eco. Only for gravel roads and such when dry and dusty. One of these days, I will make an air intake going through the rear bedroom closet to take in air near the roof.

The oil bath filters were good in the sense that they didn't cost anything but time to service.

JC

[bevans6]

The Eco line looks to be all one piece filters - housing, element, the whole thing, so when you service it you take the whole think out and toss it?  You don't just replace an element?  Do you mount it hard to something with the band clamps they sell?

I was looking and thought the Ecolite P537449 or the Eco-SM P537455 or P527456 would be the ones I would pick.

JC, I like your ideas, thanks.

Brian

[lostagain]

Yes it is all in one piece. You throw it out when done. I drill a hole in the bottom of a new one and tap it to screw in a restriction indicator. The filter is clogged when it shows about 15 or more inches of water collumn, and I get more black smoke out the tail pipe with foot down on pedal. It shows about 7" when new. I cut the last one open with angle grinder: very well made. Glued together inside a steel housing. Am going to the bus to look up model no. Back in 10,

JC

[lostagain]

Here you are, off my last invoice from Inland Kenworth in Cranbrook, BC.

Part number: AH8503FLG,    $129.81. 

I am not sure if it is a Donaldson or not. You will find Eco under several different brands.

JC

[Ralph7]

   My  now 8V71TA has a GM housing #15520287 with element #15515589, the inlet  is 7in.  the outlet to turbo is necked to 5in  and one 90 elbo to turbo. the intake sits 7in. from a 17in hole in the right side door. Side door had the hole with 3/4 rock screen, form PO's... .
  My muffler is very open, (Luvbus, had a link) .... I had purchased prior to his link.   5in. in and 5 out and no real baffles in the interior of the 5in. pipes in or out, but I needed to install a 90 elbo with 6in extension, made it  a side out , now hope I do not crush it.
    Your intake yes, but as mentioned exhaust ??
     If you install air filter on left you need to do a 90 than a 180, so that is why mine is on thr right.   Used bolt threads from the old toilet resivor straps, and added a brace.

[JohnEd]

Somebody needs to do some serious figure'n on how much a 90* bend in an air line will restrict flow.  It does and not all that slightly.  There must be some sort of rule of thumb that says something like "for every 90 bend you need to increase the pipe diameter by XXX% to maintain your flow".

Logically, and that has let me down many times, it would go something like this:  A 90* will restrict flow by 30%, all other things being equal.  And, that is a number I have heard bandied about.  Sooooo to compensate for a single 90 I would have to size my pipe up to X times 1.3 to compensate for that single 90.  see how this is stacking up?  IF IT IS TRUE, now, mind you.

Clifford recently said something to the effect that he used no muffler on his genny exhaust.....just a couple 90's and a few feet of pipe.  Ran silent!   Well, exhaust back pressure is the absolute best sound reducer ever.  Given the truth of that you can discard your muffler and replace it with some pipe and a few 90's and I think that is true.  The objective is to reduce the noise AND not create any back pressure doing so.  There is some engineering involved in getting there.

I spoke with an older gent that used to work in a rock quarry.  He told me that every machine in the quarry was powered by Detroit 2 strokes.  We were talking about mufflers and he shared that every single one of those engines had a 15 inch pipe coming out of the manifold on each side.  He said deafening was a serious understatement.  I mentioned that the 2 strokes in trucks sometimes had no muffler, and while loud, were at least plausible for street use.  He answered "the ones in the quarry certainly weren't".  The trucks must have had a few turns in the pipe.....I guess.

Maybe this has something to do with why some owners get a mile per gallon more than some others.

Food for thimk?

John

[bevans6]

John, ask and ye shall receive - graphs on restrictions due to bends!   

http://www.donaldson.com/en/engine/support/datalibrary/034973.pdf

I need to use at least one of the smooth rubber 90's they sell, both to get the tube from 7" down to 5 1/2" to go into the turbo, and so that the intake of the air cleaner isn't in the middle of my bed.

brian

[JohnEd]

Owwww!  The middle would be kinda hard to deal with.  Maybe if you biased it a littl towards Mama's side it wouldn't be such an aggravation for you.  I am all about the options and i will probably never meet your lovely and well rested charming wife.

That is a great piece of info.  In plumbing they have short and long radius 90 degree sweeps.  The longer radius is less restrictive....so they say.  I was wondering out loud here if that was an option you might have.

I really like that part about going from 7" down to 5 1/2".  Any length in the 7 incher or bends would be less restrictive.  I think that would apply to any pipe runs associated with the fresh air side of the turbo/intercooler plumbing.  Got a piece of engine exhaust wizardry for ya......increasing the size of the ex pipe from the necked down manifold flange to the turbo input and even after the turbo will hurt the flow due to expansion across a pipe union causing the gasses to cool and become more dense.  One size throughout and wrap it to keep it hotter longer.  Power and MPG for installing that wrap and we do it to get the engine bay temp down.......go figure.


Thanks for the "receive" I asked for my friend.

John