I passed the engine priming class

rcbeam · July 16, 2011, 04:33:25 PM

Over the past several months I've made a few posts about my issues with replacing my aftermarket alternator, converting fuel filters to spin-on, and my loosing prime. I already had the new alternator mounted and tried to test it several weeks ago, when the engine lost prime. In this process I replaced the rubber fuel supply line from the bulkhead fitting to the filters. I removed the old canister filter assemblies and replaced with new spin-ons all with new brass fittings. I used the liquid teflon as mentioned for a few guys here and it works slick. I also took the advice of several and bought a small garden sprayer and used that to push diesel though both filters, the pump, injectors, and back to the tank. I pushed a little over 1/2 gal through the system after I had filled the filters. Disconnected the sprayer line, hooked up the new fuel supply line and hit the starter switch. She lit right off and purred like normal. I'm going to let it set overnight and check again tomorrow to see if my prime has held. The new spin-on filters are SO much easier than the old ones. My primary cartridge canister had something wrong with it inside and was messing up the bottom of the new elements when I would install. That is all gone. Also, the spin-on filters are cheaper than the old ones too. Never a bad thing.

On the alternator, I looked up the specs and the cut-in speed of the alternator is 1400 rpm with with my pulley setup, would be engine idle of about 875. So at idle I will not have a charge. It looks like so far, that my only real option would be to move the alternator to the other end and drive it off the crank. So I'm leaving it as is for now.

SO, with some luck I'll still have prime tomorrow and I might be able to take her for a little drive. As frustrating as all of this has been, I just consider it on-hands time learning stuff I need to know anyway. One thing for sure, repriming for me will be a piece of cake. I've got all the fittings and stuff I need.

PP · July 16, 2011, 04:58:45 PM

Sounds like you're getting a handle on it. That's one thing I've not had to do on my bus yet (prime) and hope I never have to.

Will

robertglines1 · July 16, 2011, 05:32:52 PM

One more skill down! Soon you will be the teacher. Good luck!

Mex-Busnut · July 16, 2011, 05:35:10 PM

Hi, Russell. How about a picture of your "small garden sprayer" and a "How to Restore Prime for Dummies" tutorial?

Thanks in advance!

rcbeam · July 16, 2011, 06:20:47 PM

I think my heart is going to flutter... imagine me actually being able to make a contribution here. I'll try to get a couple of pictures tomorrow and make a repost.

PP · July 16, 2011, 06:36:34 PM

I hope I never need the info, but I'm looking forward to it also, Will

rcbeam · July 17, 2011, 08:29:09 AM

Here are pictures of my priming setup. I first close the fuel shut-off valve on the top of the primary filter. Then I remove the black fuel supply line from the shut-off valve. I then remove the male flare fitting from the shut-off valve. I install the 1/4 to 1/4 barbed with bushing into the shut-off valve. I put my clear plastic hose 3/8 to 1/4 on the barbed fitting with a small hose clamp. The other end of the plastic tubing is attached to the end of the sprayer supply line with another hose clamp. I filled the pump sprayer to the 2 gal mark, pump up, and pull the trigger.

In my case, my filters were new so I filled the filter up to 3/4 or a little better full with fuel before screwing up to the heads. This gave me a little room to spare and not slosh fuel on my arm or in my face, as I'm laying on the ground to install the filters on my bus.

I only pumped in a little over 1/2 gal of fuel.

Closed the shut-off valve, removed my plastic tubing from the barbed fitting, removed the barbed fitting and replaced with male flare fitting and black fuel supply line. I opened the fuel shut-off valve and hit the rear start... she lit right off and purred just fine. Once I had my fitting and pump sprayer, it was a piece of cake.

rcbeam · July 17, 2011, 08:30:00 AM

Could not get it to post all three pictures, so am doing one at a time... forgive my ignorance.

rcbeam · July 17, 2011, 08:33:00 AM

Last pic in the set showing 1/4 and 1/4 barbed fitting, and 3/8 x 1/4 plastic tubing.

JohnEd · July 17, 2011, 01:24:35 PM

This method works. Proven by many on different posts. Nothing I have read compares to the simplicity and convenience of adding a inline fuel pump back at the tank. Cut the rubber fuel line, insert the pump, clamp it off, and run the single electric wire from the "PRIME" switch you install in the engine bay.

Clifford has mentioned NAPA as a source for a in-line with a integrated check valve that precludes the installation of a separate check valve and bypass line. Just get the pump with the integrated valve. Considering the fittings and pump sprayer and the rest of it the electric pump may be cheaper beside being the most convenient. Pump is called a "lift pump" in some curcles.

2 Cents,

John