Seeking advice on polishing/cleaning our bus' exterior

[technomadia]

Since we're 'stuck' in Yuma for a few days tracking down tires & wheels - we're going to attempt tackling some other issues on the bus.

One of them is getting the exterior looking as spiffy as possible (without repainting - when/if we do that, it'll be after we finalize decisions & installation of appliances that will have an exterior presence - like vents and such).

The bus has a sort of white looking film over the paint & aluminum, which is most evident on the blue stripe.  The seller said he had taken some polish on an area and gotten the deep blue to come back.   

Here's a picture of the area he polished up:


I just went over the blue paint with a wet microfiber cleaning cloth and did some gentle hand polishing, and it looks a few shades bluer now... but not close to the depth of blue that the seller accomplished with whatever he used.   

I've read through archives about anodized vs. polished vs. clearcoats vs. whatever, and I honestly don't know what we're dealing with here and what is the safest and best way to clean up what we have.

Any advice on the best way to get the exterior spiffed up - without needing to ship in products and supplies?   Or, if we can find a detailer locally to come clean the bus for us, what types of products & methods should we request?

Thanks a bunch!

- Cherie

[robertglines1]

Several waxes make a cleaner wax. Turtle wax makes one that has rubbing compound in it that helps take off fadded(oxized) paint and waxes at same time. Or just buy rubbing compound and a inexpensive buffer and then a good wax to go on top after you get the paint back to the original luster . Try not to do in direct sun light.  enjoy.

[HighTechRedneck]

I agree.  One particular product I've had good success with on cars that were that oxidized is Nu Finish. Just follow the directions on the bottle.

In Yuma you might have to do it at night to meet the recommended surface temperature range. 

[RJ]

Chris -

As has been posted before, all the the aluminum on the coach is anodized.

Even from the factory when new, they didn't have a super high gloss finish - it was more satin.

If you want a mirror finish like the MCI & Prevost guys, you'll have to (literally) grind off the anodization, then start polishing like crazy, because non-anodized aluminum oxidizes rapidly.  Once you get the finish you want, it's best to get it clear-coated to help maintain the shine.

I know of several 4106s that have been painted, and the paint supplier matched the OEM satin finish so accurately you cannot tell it's painted until you're right up close to the bus.  Amazing, actually.

Might try calling a mobile auto detailer to do the blue stripe - possibly faster and a better job for the cash outlay.

FWIW & HTH. . .

[gus]

The paint film is obviously oxidation, caused by sunshine and lack of care. There are many products to take care of this.

The white film on the Al is probably where the anodizing was buffed off. My 4107 has this problem on a couple of doors. I've tried a bunch of stuff that didn't work. Luckily the person who did it decided not to do all the doors.

When you find out how to clean the white film off the Al be sure to let us know. I sure don't want to change that door skin just to renew the finish!!

[Chopper Scott]

Go and get yourself about 100 gallons of elbow grease!  But in all reality if there was a product that made old paint look like new we'd all know about it. Most paints have a lifespan of 7 years even if it's a clear coat when subject to the elements all the time. Polishing aluminum and stainless is a whole different ball game. Probably best to google a how to on that issue. But you can start with some rubbing compound and a buffer on the paint and see how it goes.

[Fred Mc]

The painted part (blue) is oxidized.To remove the oxidation you need a rubbing compound. McQuires makes a series of them. Some are for use with buffers and some for use by hand. Don't use a wax, it won't do anything. After removing the oxidation use a good wax to protect the finish from further oxidation.
The aluminum MAY be oxidized as well. If it is anodized you don't want to remove that as it protects the al. and once you remove it you will have to constantly re-polish it.

[technomadia]

Alrighty...  got us some Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound for heavy oxidation, and a few gallons of elbow grease.   One side of the bus now has a pretty blue(r) stripe.  And bonus, I'm now trained up to be the next karate kid! 

Will do the other side with the next break in direct sunlight, and then likely another round all over.   Then wax to protect.  Imagine that we'll eventually repaint, but  not anytime soon. Figure that's best for after we've finalized (hah) replacing appliance and such that would need exterior vent covers painted to match anyway.

I've got a kid up in Lake Havasu, AZ who used to do paint prep for Monaco Coach who has offered to do a really good cleaning, polishing and such on the bus for us.   So I'll try to remain patient until we can get back on the road and get up there for the rest.

Thanks!
- Cherie

[gus]

Don't use anything with grit in it (most polishes) on the Al until you're sure the anodizing is gone, otherwise you will make it gone!

If the anodizing is gone it won't matter much.