Insulating and cooling a Bus

[robertglines1]

total cost for 3 minni split heat and cool 1500$ delivered to house ceiling fan 45$ Lowes  Fantastic vents 2each (surplus) 250$ for pair---120 power requirements @ 27amp total running for all. Just to put numbers with it.  All new Equip easy install.

[Seayfam]

several suggested starting an insulation thread. Mostly to see if any new ideas have surfaced, better ways to skin the cat, etc.

I'll tell you what works really good on my bus. I have 3" of spray foam all the way around, floor, walls and roof. For windows I have insulated double paned Motion windows from Peninsula glass with a real dark tint. The bus is painted glossy bright white. This really reflects the heat from the sun. very good!! If you touch something with dark paint and then touch the bus, it's an amazing difference. I think this summer when it gets really hot out, I'm going to take a temp from the white and compare it to a temp from a dark color. (I'm sure it will be a huge difference) But anyway my bus stays really cool when it's hot and hot when it's cool.

On another note... When you are parked at a campground that allows people to drink too much alcohol, You won't hear them when your trying to sleep.

Gary

[artvonne]

On another note... When you are parked at a campground that allows people to drink too much alcohol, You won't hear them when your trying to sleep.

Gary

  I was thinking about what you wrote this evening. I had the Bus all closed up but could still hear the frogs croaking away. I think the window seals need some attention.

  Yay, I found part of the door handle rod, the door end with the turnbuckle and hinge bolt. The handle has the Hiem joint hanging on it so I can probably just get a piece of tube and cobble it back together. Er, I mean "fabricate a proper rod".

  Im thinking of removing the fire extinguisher bay in the foot well, pull out the door lock air cylinder, and open up the stairwell even with the door frame?? Anyone done that?

[RJ]

Paul -

I wouldn't remove the door lock mechanism in the stairwell.

When working properly, it keeps the front end very quiet while going down the interstate, especially if the door seals are in good condition.

Lots and lots of wind whistles if unlocked - BTDT.

One of MCI's better ideas, actually.

Keep it.

FWIW & HTH. . .

[artvonne]

Paul -

I wouldn't remove the door lock mechanism in the stairwell.

One of MCI's better ideas, actually.

Keep it.

  Hmmmmm. I'll admit she was whistlin pretty good on the way home if the ratchet strap holdin the door shut wasnt tight enough. And the seals are, uhmmm, not so hot. I think remake a new door handle push pull rod. Ill have to get some good seals and better align the door.Then we'll see if we can do away with that evil door lock.

  I was looking through the floor vents at the evaporator. It looks like the core unit, forward of the evaporator, is the heater core?? Im asking because it looks like its all one unit. Are they pancaked together?? I saw what looks like a bleeder near the filter assembly, i'm assuming its a coolant bleeder. It also looks like the bulkhead behind the fuel tank is just ahead of the HVAC system. If so, plenty of room for an additional evaporator and some axial fans, and possibly enough for a swamp cooler.

 

[RJ]

Paul -

Am I missing something here?

Why is the door air lock mechanism evil?

[artvonne]

Paul -

Am I missing something here?

Why is the door air lock mechanism evil?

  Its a joke? I realise its importance, but its blocking me from opening up the stairwell. 

[Kenny]

Brian, You mentioned you used the stock windows. Did you also do a roof raise? KENNY