buttoning up engine build

[bevans6]

I am getting close to buttoning up the engine on my converted industrial 8V71T.  I stripped it to the block front and back to put on the bus specific covers, bell housing, accessory drives.  new compressor is on, all new gaskets, etc.  I am at the final stages, wanted to lay out what I am doing and ask if I am missing anything.  I placed my order with Luke today, but he has to order in a few things so I can still add to it.

Rebuilding clutch cover with new blue springs, etc.  Discs and machined surfaces are fine.
new rear seal on a new sleeve already in
new oil seal on alternator accessory drive pulley.
new throwout bearing for clutch
new pilot bearing
new front crank seal, sleeve and o-ring
new air governor on new compressor
going to check and put new gaiter on the reverse solenoid, and change it if it looks funky.
going to reuse the flywheel bolts, per the earlier discussion.

Am I missing anything obvious?

Brian

[HB of CJ]

Do you know what the hp setting is on the mill right now?  Has the governor been replaced to an automotive type?  Are you planning on addding an air to air intercooler?  Bet that industrial big-injector DD will respond well to such.  HB of CJ (old coot)

[5B Steve]

   Hey Brian,  With all of the hard work behind you, now you will have the honor to fill the tank with the 4 plus

   dollar fuel.  Good luck on the new engine, thanks for keeping all of us updated.

   Steve 5B.......

[TedsBUSted]

Sounds like a thorough job.
A few thoughts, just in case they haven't been covered.

The transmission  input shaft splines should be inspected for wear. Ditto the clutch release cross-shaft and bushings.

I'm not sure which, if any, parts were swapped around on the flywheel end, but it only takes a minute to measure the flywheel housing for concentricity. Check too to be certain that any protruding flywheel flange will clear the main seal. Also, before assembly, the input shaft's assembled length into the pilot bearing should be measured, and also the clutch disc hub location(s) verified, just to be sure that when assembled everything is where it belongs.

Ted

[JohnEd]

Did you have an alternator shop check the alt bearings and brushes?  With your skill set and shop I guess you would do that yourself.  Did ja?

John

[dickegler]

Brian, have you considered the front seal on the transmission input shaft?

dick

[bevans6]

Wow!  All excellent ideas! 

the governor is an automotive type, the same as is on the original engine.  I do need to fully inspect it, and swap over the bus control plate, and install the high idle buffer switch for the jake brakes.  That's soon.

I haven't really started on the transmission yet, but excellent suggestions and I will be looking closely at the input shaft and all the bushings for wear.  I will probably open it up and do an internal inspection, etc.

Alternator is going to be getting new seals and such.

I think the hp is around 360 or so.  It has a big low pressure turbo that I have been recommended to change, but I will probably do the initial install with the existing one.  It has N80 injectors, so a little big but not too big.

This project is a long way from finished! 

Brian

[TomC]

The last 8V-71TA that was made for highway had N80 injectors and was rated at 400hp and 1200lb/ft torque.  But, it also has the aftercooler and bypass valve on the blower.  If you don't have an aftercooler under the blower, I highly recommend you reduce the injector size down to 75 or even 70 so you don't burn a valve or such.  Or you can do what I did and install an air to air intercooler in front of the radiators.  N80's on a fire engine is for high acceleration-not for long hill climbing.  I would install a pyrometer and never go over 1000 degrees.  A pyrometer would install right after the turbo.  Good Luck, TomC

[JohnEd]

I agree with all that has been said.  The air to air intercooler will not add power.  It will only insure that you have the same power at the top of the hill as you do when you start out at the bottom.  I think many don't install a good intercooler because they experience the "power" without one and see no need.  Your power drops as the intake air temp goes up and in a sustained load that happens and robs you of power and efficiency.  Whatever degrees you raise the intake, the exist will suffer the same rise so anything you do to decrease the intake pays dividends and sometimes huge ones.

The bigger the area of the intercooler the closer you will be able to get the intake air charge to ambient.  The down side is turbo lag that goes up as intercooler volume goes up.  I would err on the side of caution and go big as the final power will be better with the larger unit....at the top of the hill.....but anything will be a plus.

Tom's idea of incorporating a pyro on the ex is a great one.  For short term analysis I would want to know the temp drop across the intercooler and the final charge air temp after the compressor.  You can drop the intake air further with water injection inside the intercooler and on the outside of the intercooler.  Injection into the compressor should be a benefit but I have no experience and there could be sig problems....dunno.

I look at this as a big series affair:  start with ambient, heat added by turbo, heat subtracted by the intercooler, heat added by the compressor, heat subtracted by the Aftercooler.  What is the Charge air temp? 

HTH,

John