Ouch! My rusty bulkhead :(

happycamperbrat · March 16, 2011, 09:25:58 PM

WOW!! I love this group!! You guys have given me a LOT to digest and think about, even what kind of helmet to get

Yes, this is structual. The RTS is designed in several different modules all welded together to form the strength of the coach. Fortunately, to my eye anyway, it isnt swaying or bowing or anything and is straight. The rust issues are at the lower part of the bulkhead behind both front tires. I didnt notice it before blocking the bus up and climbing under when I spotted an area that just didnt seem right, so I started poking around with a screw driver and quickly found lots of red powder! All around the rusted area seems pretty solid still, I really want to clean it up with a wire brush on my drill and the grinder like Geoff said to be sure though. The Good Samaratin that is coming out here for Easter Vacation to teach me how to remove my tires will know what to do about this I think, I just want to have that area all ready for him when he gets here.

Thanks Guys! Each and everyone of you truely are the best!! I am honored to be in this group

chart1 · March 16, 2011, 09:47:16 PM

I agree that those rust spots do not need to be on your priority list. I would concentrate on safety items as brakes and air leaks first. I would use some rust conversion product on the spots to keep them from further rusting. Here is a product that I have used and it works great. I put it on a spot about 3 years ago and the rust spot has not grown. I have used it on some of my older trucks around the fender wheels and and so far has worked there to even with all the road salt.

http://store.interstateproducts.com/1_step_rust_killer_1gal?sc=2&category=7605

rampeyboy · March 17, 2011, 02:16:58 AM

On the subject of rust removal, ya'll may find this thread interestng to look over....

http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.php?1,389884

Boyce

robertglines1 · March 17, 2011, 06:01:19 AM

picture didn't look structural to me. looked like it was protecting structure from elements. I'd say cut out bad and make sure it did not go past and effect structure behind. If it didn't simple screw/ rivet and seal a patch over hole. Take a look at original picture and see what you guys think. the holes in fender well were the source of moisture to get behind rusted area and cause rust out from back side. What is missing ;plugs / mud flap mounting?

bevans6 · March 17, 2011, 06:54:56 AM

I believe the RTS is a pure monocoque design made up of modules that are welded together. That tends to make everything structural to some degree, although i also thought they were stainless steel, not low-carbon mild steel. Anyway, fixing what you have to very achievable I would think, but now that you've started you have to keep looking...

Brian

happycamperbrat · March 17, 2011, 08:14:10 AM

Robert, you are right. Those bolts were for the mud flaps and the tires were kicking water up behind the mud flaps and it had no where to go...

Brian, yes the RTS is a monocoque design with all the modules welded together. The photo is actually 2 modules with a welded seam and the rust went thru the 1st module, the weld, then the mating module to create a hole. From 1982 thru about 1986 the lower bulkheads were made of mild steel while the upper area remained stainless steel. During this era the lower bulkheads came with an option to be stainless, obviously mine didnt take the option

Before 1982 they had stainless lower bulkheads. As I recall, after about 1986 they started putting the stainless back for the front and rear bulkhead. Ive been looking at my other bulkheads since finding this and they all seem to be fine with only a few places of minor surface rust. The hardest place to get to on the RTS is the rear bulkhead though, and I still have aways to go before I can get to it....... but it is also the place I hear the most complaints about rust in the RTS groups.. So Im working on it.

My bus came from the San Fransisco Bay area and used to run Hwy 17 (that's why I have one of the very few transists that came with highway gears). I never expected to find rust, but I really didnt read enough about them having any mild steel before purchasing it either. I thought it was from a rust free area and all made out of stainless steel, but I guess the salt in the air got to it and I was dead wrong about the whole body being stainless. You would think that GM would have considered the stainless in the lower part of the bus to be more important then stainless up where the passengers are if they were going to start cutting corners

......

luvrbus · March 17, 2011, 08:41:19 AM

Stainless has little flex it cracks and buses have to flex at some point mixing mild steel with stainless is a easy way to achieve flexing

good luck

happycamperbrat · March 17, 2011, 08:59:18 AM

Here are some updated photos, with the bolts for the mud flaps removed and a shot of the driver's side as well

Driver's side looking from behind tire

Passenger side looking towards front of bus

Passenger side looking from behind front tire

happycamperbrat · March 17, 2011, 09:39:45 AM

Quote from: chart1 on March 16, 2011, 09:47:16 PM
I agree that those rust spots do not need to be on your priority list. I would concentrate on safety items as brakes and air leaks first. I would use some rust conversion product on the spots to keep them from further rusting. Here is a product that I have used and it works great. I put it on a spot about 3 years ago and the rust spot has not grown. I have used it on some of my older trucks around the fender wheels and and so far has worked there to even with all the road salt.

http://store.interstateproducts.com/1_step_rust_killer_1gal?sc=2&category=7605

Oh and I wanted to say too that I did have the brakes checked out by a DD garage shortly after buying my bus. I saw some black oil coming out of one of the rear wheels and it concerned me. The DD told me that the brakes were brand new and had recently been rebuilt (I already knew the engine and tranny were recently rebuilt by the City of Santa Cruz but did not know about the brakes too

) The brakes just needed breaking in! It also has new tires on it that I bought last year, and I have never noticed major air leaks...... so dont worry, you are safe if Im in range lol

John316 · March 17, 2011, 03:45:33 PM

So what was the black oil that you saw?

God bless,

John

happycamperbrat · March 17, 2011, 04:21:44 PM

The DD guy said it was oil from the brakes..... I cant remember now, but an RTS person thought it was a bearing or something at the time from my description of the oil. So I then nursed the bus to Bakersfield to be checked out. When the RTS guy saw the wheel though he said that from my description that he had thought there was much more oil then he saw. But I took it to a shop in Bakersfield just to be on the safe side as I was going on a 1000 mile trip at the time. Im not exactly sure where the oil was coming from anymore but it was something to do with the brakes being new and needing to break in according to the DD guy...

John316 · March 17, 2011, 04:54:00 PM

Interesting. In my limited brake experience, I can't say that I have heard of that before. Thanks for the fuller explanation.

God bless,

John

babell2 · March 17, 2011, 05:31:34 PM

Theresa

Something isn't jiving here. My MCI brakes are a dry brake all actuation is by air servo with a cam inside the brake assembly.

I can't think of how any fluid could be generated by breaking in dry brake pads on a steel brake drum. Were you driving in the wet so brake dust could have been carried away with water? This could explane a black fluid but not Oil!!! Oil sounds like a leaking wheel bearing or axle seal.

Check it out. Any one else got something?

happycamperbrat · March 17, 2011, 06:09:34 PM

Well now that I think of it, maybe it wasnt oil........ but it was black