best split ac unit out there??

[Jackling54]

 I'm need to figure out what ac I'm going to use really soon.I want a very efficient unit that can be duct in flex pipe or small evap. mounted inside.One or two units don't matter, just need about 24,000 btu total.I like the home system i have ( Fujitsu) but have read a few things that there not really made to Handel the abuse of the road.Any help would be nice.

[JohnEd]

Email Nick directly as he is the professional among us and sells some of the HVAC systems/equipment.  I have had very good experiences with everything Hitachi sells and they are all over the spectrum. http://www.hitachiaircon.com/argws/category.do?action=getCategories&rangeId=1     Look at all their models and especially the "multiple evap/room unit" system.

Your problem is that the 115V systems only go up to a max size due to current draw.  Not to suggest that you under engineer your system but 1000 BTU in a home system puts out sig more cold air than a 1000 BTU RV unit due to the way they spec each.

Please post what parts you went with and maybe the costs

Thanks,

John

[robertglines1]

Was looking for responses also. A friend said the most determining factor was use 410 refrigerant. DuWayne MCI 8 tin tent has two in his and in the sun in upper 90's one cycles off.He has only stock insulation.  really impressed me and they are really quiet.Heating side is amazing. Only draw back is easily solved in the condensate drain needs to be slightly off level to the down side to prevent leak while in notion. His units have been in use for 4 years. Will ck exact brand when i see him. Several other board members use them already. I am using 2  12,000 btu units in my new project.    Bob

[Jerry32]

I am using a mini split home system with fine results. I am just starting my fourth year and still works great. 120 volt 12000 BTU 410 gas.   no doubt chinese. Jerry

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Hi Jackling54,

The first question I will ask you is, what do you expect in your cooling needs?

[ avarage temps where you live, do you like 70 degrees or 75? Do you boondock or always plug in at a park?]

There are quite a few factors to pinpoint in order to advise you on what system will work for you! Ductless systems work very well for some but,

not all. They are not too good at dehumidifying the air but, if your in a low humidity region then it will be ok for you. They are very efficient. You

will be limited to 12,000 btu's on 120v. And they don't like being out of level since they only drain from one end. They can be ordered in heat

pump versions too.

Roof top units are the most bang for the buck!  They take up almost no inside or bay space, they come in 15,000 btu's each at 120v, they are

very inexpencive,  are available almost anywhere. Some are a bit noisy, look somewhat ugly on your roof, and sometimes leave streaks down

the side of your coach. 

I'm a big fan of oversizing! I like the way entertainer coaches are set up. Two 2- ton home type heat pumps systems complete with ducting.

Good Luck
Nick-

[Jackling54]

well i live so cal !! It gets hot .... I like to go over board..heat pump is the ONLY option. lol I boon dock alot its mostly all dry heat.I'm spending a lot of effort on insulting, But want to crank up the "quiet" ac and freeze us out in a hurry.I have figitsu's in my hm and love them.Clean air ,efficient but large wall units on the walls." large for the bus". Roof ac are out,don't want to cut into that beautiful metal roof.I have 5500 onan (120v) but would consider a new 220v to handle the ac needs if i have to.For ducting "no over head .Needs to be concealed or under floor.thanks..josh

[luvrbus]

You see a lot of the new entertainer buses like the Hemphill Bros are using a self contained unit with ducting same as used on mobile homes around 2500 each 24000 btu one would do the job for you then you are into the 240 volts also Marathon is using the same units for people that don't want roof airs my doctors new Marathon Prevost has that type unit


good luck

[justin25taylor]

I'm a big fan of oversizing! I like the way entertainer coaches are set up. Two 2- ton home type heat pumps systems complete with ducting.

Good Luck
Nick-

Me too! Nothing like 5 roof units off genset + OTR air to cool down a bus quick!! 

I do not like hearing that the mini splits are not great at lowering humidity. High humidity levels make me way more uncomfortable than high temperatures.
I have a 3 ton "home type" basement unit on my Eagle and was thinking of adding a mini split up above the driver area somewhere to help keep cool while stopped. The way my unit is ducted with "inflatable walls" I do not quite get enough airflow in the front. I wish the original converter had gone with 2 systems, one front and one back......

OTR air and driver air do (very) well while underway but I'd sure like to cool off the front without having to use a roof unit.

Very interested to know how the mini split works out for you. Please let us know what you end up getting and how it/they work(s) for you.

Cliff mentioned that "Ron the Busnut" has some Coleman basement units available as well. I stand to gain nothing by mentioning it, just trying to help you explore your options.
(I really hope I am not violating a forum rule by posting that. If I am in trouble, please let me know so I don't do it again)

Good Luck,
Justin

[justin25taylor]

You see a lot of the new entertainer buses like the Hemphill Bros are using a self contained unit with ducting same as used on mobile homes around 2500 each 24000 btu one would do the job for you then you are into the 240 volts also Marathon is using the same units for people that don't want roof airs my doctors new Marathon Prevost has that type unit


good luck

Yes! "Package units" They take up a ton of bay space but most of the big dogs haul everything in trucks now anyway. One of our buses from Hemphill last year had one and it was great. I remember driving a Florida coach or Pyramid that had one not long ago.

What ever happened to the "Memphisaire" brand? Entertainer coaches used to use those quite a bit. I always thought the condensing unit was neat the way the air flowed through it instead of out the top like most of the "house type" units do now..

Cliff- Looks like we posted at the same time pal. Sorry.

Justin

[Kenny]

Nick, You mention Mini splits are not good at dehumidifying the air. Just curious, why do you think that is? Kenny

[belfert]

How would a home unit be properly vented in a bus bay?  Are they using the type of home unit that has the condensor and evaporator in the same housing?

My house is 2,700 sq ft and it cools just fine with a unit that I believe is 3 ton.  It is high effiency and only needs a 20 amp breaker.  My dad and I wired my new house in 2001 with a 30 amp line for the A/C, but they take less power now so we went with a 20 amp breaker instead.

My bus is less than 20% the size of the house with 30,000 BTU of cooling and you will roast in the front when it is hot out.  I plan to add another rooftop up front this summer if funds allow.  My bus will then have more A/C than my house.

[Hi yo silver]

My '82 Custom Coach conversion has what I really think are the original Copeland A/Cs.  They are still going strong.  Not exactly what you are looking to install, but it makes me a believer in their equipment.
Dennis

[justin25taylor]

How would a home unit be properly vented in a bus bay?  Are they using the type of home unit that has the condensor and evaporator in the same housing?

Belfert,
They used to use the "Home" type with just the condensing unit downstairs. The ones Luvrbus was talking about houses both "units" if you will or a "package unit"


On the "home" condenser only types, the air comes in all around the sides of the unit and a fan blows it out the top. Outdoors this works great.
                                                                                   
The way I have seen them vented is they put them close to a bay door. The bay door has a vent or screen covering most all of the door. They then put a piece of sheet metal that touches the bay door on one side of it, then attach the other end to the top of the condensing unit. They then use a second sheet going from the top rear of the unit bent so it forces the air out the top half of the bay door vent. The air comes in from the bottom half of the bay door and usually there is another vent for incoming air on the bay floor.
I have also seen them use wood to do the same thing. I first doubted that they would be able to shed enough heat that way but after driving several of them they cool fine.

Some buses have 2 units. One on each side. I have also seen them mounted where the condenser coil for the bus air normally goes on an Eagle.

The "package units" that Luvrbus spoke of vent as above or they draw air in one side and blow it out the other side. (at least the ones I have seen)

The old "Memphisaire" condensing units I remember took air from inside the bay and blew it out a vent in the door. The fan motors could be reversed and I have seen some that suck air IN the bay door then into bay and out through the generator vent, radiator for generator or however they were set up.

My 10 Eagle has an old 3 ton "Baird" brand unit, I believe. It sucks air in from the bay door and blows it out the bottom of the bay. I really like it. The coil stays clean and other than a contactor, it has been trouble free from day one (1988).

I have the same problem as you with heat building up in the front. The way the unit is ducted it basically pressurizes the area between two "inner" walls of both sides of the bus. They then put 4" round vents in the front area, back area, and each of the 9 bunks. The bunks stay nice and cool, I just need help up front. I really wanted to keep the roof clean and stay away from the noise of a non ducted roof unit if possible. I really like the idea of a mini-split or another basement type unit for the front.



My basement air needs 240V to work and although I have the generator capacity available, I would like the front unit to be 120V in case I stay in a campground with 30A service. I know it wouldn't cool the whole bus, but it might be able to take the edge off in a mild climate.

If I was not so stubborn I could put 2 roof units on the bus and solve all of my problems.......
Nick,
I too would be interested in why the mini-splits do not pull as much moisture from the air.

Sorry for the long post and for the topic drift gang.

Best,
Justin

[justin25taylor]

My bus is less than 20% the size of the house with 30,000 BTU of cooling and you will roast in the front when it is hot out.  I plan to add another rooftop up front this summer if funds allow.  My bus will then have more A/C than my house.

Me too 3 tons cools my 2500 sq ft. home nicely.

If it takes 30 tons to cool my bus, so be it. I can tolerate most anything except heat!!

[robertglines1]

lots of good discussion here. I have done two household 14700 BTU each in a bay I just built a opening like a window would be and slid the ac in the outside bay door was then changed to a condenser door to expell the heat from the condens or. simple cut intake into top of unit ; inside evaporator was ducted thru floor through out coach. Return air was from floor vents thru bays.Is working good in 95 degree weather. I'm using mini split units this time because of ease of installation and high ser factor. Two bus nuts I know have used them and I have been in one that was super quiet and took care of heat needs also. To each his own.   Bob