Removing and replacing wall panels
 

Removing and replacing wall panels

Started by mike802, November 15, 2010, 02:28:58 PM

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mike802

This weekend I pull the interior wall sheeting off my mc9.  I used a hammer and chisel to pop the rivet heads off, worked much faster than drilling, or grinding.  I noticed that there was a sticky tape like substance between the sheeting and the frame.  I assume this is to keep down any buzzing, or rattling from vibration.  Anyway all the sticky tape did not survive the panel removal and I would like to replace it and was wondering what others have used?

I found some rust inside the walls on the frame members that I am going to have to repair before insulating.  It looks to me like water is getting in through cracks just before the corners of the window frames.  The cracks are very slight and you have to look close to see them.  What is a good way to repair these cracks?  I am not able to weld aluminum, so I was thinking of some type of fiberglass, bondo, or lead?

When I have made all the repairs and insulated, is it ok to reattach the metal wall panels with screws instead of rivets like mci did originally?

Thanks for all the help.
Mike.
Mike
1983 MCI MC9
Vermont

robertglines1

Maybe JB Weld..I put plywood back on wall instead of metal and used screws /self drilling. also spray foam in a can is good for filling voids.Bob
Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana

thomasinnv

I believe the tape is used to create a separation between the dis-similar metals.  I would think you could probably use just about any kind of tape in it's place.
Some are called, some are sent, some just got up and went.

1998 MCI 102-DL3
Series 60 12.7/Alison B500
95% converted (they're never really done, are they?)

mike802

The frame members inside the walls are steel, as is the sheet metal sheeting I removed on the interior. The bottom frame member that runs along the floor may be stainless, there is no rust on that frame member, but the upper members do have some rust. For this reason I do not think the sticky tape is to isolate dissimilar metals, but to quiet any unusual noises from the engines vibration.  I had asked in a different post if I could replace the interior sheet metal with wood and was told that due to the type of construction of my bus I should replace the steel sheeting after insulating because it was structural.  So what have any of you done when insulating the walls on an mc9?  Just leave the sticky tape alone?  I would hate to go through all this work and have buzzy rattling walls, I may want to remove these panels again some day, so I don't think JB weld is for me.  Has anyone else had a problem with water getting into the inner walls through cracks in the window frames? If so, what repair method did you use?

Thanks
Mike.
Mike
1983 MCI MC9
Vermont

Jriddle

If you put those panels back on you will need to get structural rivits also. I added cross bracing and left the panels off and then used plywood on my walls. There is no doubt that putting those panels back is the safest but you may find putting cross bracing to be just as good and less cost. This has been hashed out many times on this board.

John
John Riddle
Townsend MT
1984 MC9

mike802

Thanks John: apparently I am not using the right key words, as I did a search but did not get any results.
Mike
1983 MCI MC9
Vermont

Jriddle

Yea search sucks here. Here is some pics of what I did. Not sure would pass the engineers approval but bus is in different application now than when hauling passengers.
John Riddle
Townsend MT
1984 MC9