A Recent Project
 

A Recent Project

Started by Joe Camper, November 13, 2010, 05:28:43 AM

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Joe Camper

Signing off from Cook County Ill. where the dead vote, frequently.

Ace

Looks great! Very professional looking job!
Ace Rossi
Lakeland, Fl. 33810
Prevost H3-40

Dave Siegel

Nice job, that floor looks great. You obviously look like you've done this a time or two. What did you use for mastic on the main body of the floor?  I used marble applied to plywood (only in the kitchen and bath area) and I have developed some cracking, do you think if I re-did the tile work and used backer board it would help?

Dave Siegel
Dave & Jan Siegel    1948 GMC  "Silversides"
            Pinellas Park, Florida
   Dave is Host to the "Help Assist Pages"
  (Free roadside help for Bus Conversions)
         www.help-assist-list.com

Joe Camper

It could be a less than adiquate sub-base at least that would be my guess.

I know on that Prevo I was working with was 1 full inch of plywood floor to start and I put 1/2 in backerboard on top of that.

IMO if you get some slight grout cracking over time that would be expected. Slight and infrequent repairs to grout lines may be a nessessary evil with tile in a sturcture that is moving and flexing.

That is speculation on my part, none of the floors I have done have been in for more than a couple of years.

Signing off from Cook County Ill. where the dead vote, frequently.

eddiepotts

It looks good! Dave, My mom had a kitchen table once that had tile on it. One of the things differant about it was that it had a rubber caulk between the joints instead of grout. You could not tell by looking at it unless you stuck your fingernail in it. I am guessing they did this to help with flexing so you would not get the cracking. It would be like adding hundreds of little expansion joints. Someone else may have more on this idea but it may be something to look into even if you changed your cracked tiles to see how it works.

Jeremy

Quote from: eddiepotts on November 13, 2010, 06:37:28 AM
It looks good! Dave, My mom had a kitchen table once that had tile on it. One of the things differant about it was that it had a rubber caulk between the joints instead of grout. You could not tell by looking at it unless you stuck your fingernail in it. I am guessing they did this to help with flexing so you would not get the cracking. It would be like adding hundreds of little expansion joints. Someone else may have more on this idea but it may be something to look into even if you changed your cracked tiles to see how it works.

I was reading just last week that professional tilers will never use cement-based grout when attaching tiles to table-tops or work surfaces, because there are chemicals in the cement grout which could poison any food being prepared on the surface. I'm not sure whether this it a legal requirement to not use cement-based grout in such circumstances, or merely good practice. The article I was reading recommended using an epoxy grout instead, but maybe there are other solutions such as rubber-based product such as you describe.

Jeremy
A shameless plug for my business - visit www.magazineexchange.co.uk for back issue magazines - thousands of titles covering cars, motorbikes, aircraft, railways, boats, modelling etc. You'll find lots of interest, although not much covering American buses sadly.

robertglines1

Joe nice work! on one I did I used brass strips to separate tile instead of grout. used GE silicon caulk as a adhesive..you have to chisel tile out and will take part of sub floor with it.. Just another method.  Bob
Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana

HighTechRedneck


Joe Camper

Bob where did you get the brass strips?

You were who I was refering to with the silicone instead of mastic.

I am going to do some experiment to see just how much is enough if it is like mirror mastic it shouldn't take much.
Signing off from Cook County Ill. where the dead vote, frequently.

robertglines1

1/8 by 5/16 flat stock on side..polished then sealed with the same sealer you use on tile..5 yrs old and still looks good.  Bob
Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana

luvrbus

They call those brass and other inlays divider strips for Terrazzo floors any Terrazzo floor shop has them you can also buy at a outrageous price at HD  fwiw.I was told by the floor guys that did floors for me you use no grout on Terrazzo tile floors only divider strips most of mine where poured and then ground.


good luck


Life is short drink the good wine first

robertglines1

I got at my sheetmetal supplier.didn't think about terrazzo floor strips..all brass not brass color..about $300   for whole coach.  Lots of work...Bob
Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana

Dave5Cs

Guys;
You can use cement products on floors but I would suggest in your buses especially over any kind of plywood, use tile backer 1/2" at the least and using a Fracture barrier at the most. Most good tile stores will have this in rolls and sell by the square ft.in actually separates the tile from any movement of the Sub-Strait or original plywood floor.

You should never use tile over just plywood because of shrinkage and moisture swelling as in movement and any moisture can drain to the plywood and will create molds and mildews and depending where you live dry-rot.

Always Glue or mastic down the backer and use screws and or staples to affix it to the floor then use latex modified Thin set at tooth paste consistency and put that over it and lay down the fracture barrier.Let dry for 72 hours. Then lay tiles in another bed of the same mortar or top of the fracture barrier. These are the correct accepted methods in the industry.

Epoxy grout is a good idea if you have used it before. If not practice first and get the timing down if no practice and you think you know how to use it rent a 4" grinder with 4 blades for re- doing your tile??? when your epoxy drys on top of the tile because you didn't practice?

Where food is involved you can use cement products but be sure to seal it with a good sealer like 511 and every year deep clean with Baking soda and water as a paste for any stains and then clean it all with Hydrogen peroxide and rinse with water and re-seal.

Dave
"Perfect Frequency"1979 MCI MC5Cs 6V-71,644MT Allison.
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 60th Anniversary edition.
1998 Jeep TJ ,(Gone)
Somewhere in the USA fulltiming.

TomC

Just curious how much that floor weighed?  Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

Joe Camper

Tom I was waiting for that question LOL it weighed PLENTY.

The bus is an 05 has the 365's on the steer and tag from the factory. The bus weighed 52500 and almost 18000 on the front,with fuel and water before the install. I am an ex-trucker and I like being able to tell folks how heavy my camper is, sorrry can't help it.

Dave those counters are perfect and thank you for the tips. I screwed the backer down but did not glue it that would not be a difficult additional step. Although your suggestion on the mesh seems logical for helping reduce movement I do not know if I will go there. 1 in ply, 1/2 backer,  combine it with the tile itself and put it in a prevo with the way they frame the chassis and.......... it aint movin.

I need to do the kitchen I may experiment with that mesh you may get a call from me next spring when I start on that.

I am suprised I got so much intrest on this. In the past I got the impression that those of us with professionall conversions are sometimes viewed as cheeters.

If I ever had to do one from scratch it would be unfinished everywhere and the one we did get is sooooooooooo much work its plenty to keep me buisy and interested.
Signing off from Cook County Ill. where the dead vote, frequently.