Webasto 2010

[Phil H / Chicago]

Hey guys,

I am trying to find a webasto 2010 and control box to replace my failing one in my Aquahot 431....but not having good luck. Does anyone know where I can buy one? There is one on ebay but I can't tell if it has the control/brain box on it and the seller won't bother anwsering my question as to whether it is there or not. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Phil

[Sean]

Phil,

What's wrong with the one you have?  It's hard to imagine a problem with a DBW-2010 that would require a whole new unit -- almost everything in it is replaceable individually.  We've gotten pretty good at fixing ours; maybe I can give you some pointers.  Used ones can cost anywhere from $600-$1,000.

-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com

[Phil H / Chicago]

Thanks Sean,

I have been having problems with the unit not starting and stopping on it's own. And there has been a "popping" sound that has begun recently. I am pretty sure the sound is coming from the control box and several people have told me it is the relays in the control box going bad. But I have also begun hearing a little bit of chattering noise coming from the burner also. I am pretty sure the control box (part #287 962) is going bad....I can twist and squeeze slightly on it and it will start and stop the burner.

I am glad to hear you say that the burner can be rebuilt part by part. I had considered trying that route but was nervous about spending the money part by part and wondered if new was better.

There is a guy on ebay that sells a reman. control box for $420.00....but I am also nervous about what I will get. The best price I have found on the control box new is $680.00.

I am still in the process of troubleshooting and trying to figure out if I have one problem....a bad control box....or two....bad control box and bad burner.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Phil

[buswarrior]

If you figure....

Do some basic maintenance on the unit, needs done anyway, and see what happens?

Open it up, see what dirt is in it, put in a fresh nozzle, adjust the igniters, check condition of wiring.

Perhaps a corroded wire leading to a harness some place?

Sometimes we get lucky?

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[Phil H / Chicago]

Thanks buswarrior....I just finished doing the annual service, new nozzle and fuel filter. I did the best I could to inspect all wires and didn't see anything suspect. Have not disassembled the burner yet but may try that next.

Phil

[stevet903]

The troubleshooting/repair manual is here:

http://www.suremarine.com/manuals/webasto-repair-manuals/dbw2010-2020-300-repair.pdf

Mine didn't work reliably at all.  I found the power connection to the unit corroded, and whoever had put it together at some point had pinched two of the internal wires and broken most of the strands.  Fixed the wiring, adjusted the electrodes, put a new nozzle and fuel filter in just for good measure, and it's been working great ever since.  I always run mine at least once a month to get the fuel flowing through the unit to keep it from getting gummed up.

Steve

[Sean]

Did you clean the flame sensor when you did the service?  In my experience a dirty flame sensor can evidence the symptoms you described.

The flame sensor is basically a photocell, and it gets covered in soot over time, which can prevent it from properly detecting the flame.  I use WD-40 on a rag to clean the soot off.

-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com

[Phil H / Chicago]

Thanks Steve....I will print the manual and do some reading. We live fulltime in our coach so the unit gets used daily. And with Chicago winter coming I need to make sure it is properly working. I think maybe what I will do is start by replacing the control box and go from there.

Thanks Sean....yes we did clean the photocell while doing the service.

Phil

[Sean]

OK.

Despite dire warnings about no serviceable parts inside, yada yada, the control box is really little more than a bunch of relays on a circuit board.  It is possible to carefully pry the tabs up and slide the can off the base, then have a look at the board.  If you have a bad trace or a loose relay, or perhaps a cold solder joint, that might account for the symptom where it comes back after squeezing the box.  I would open it up and have a look -- might be something obvious.

If you can't find the trouble right away, have a look at the wiring diagram in the service manual.  You should be able to figure out which relay is going bad from the sequence of leads being energized.  Use a quality VOM to ensure that each signal is coming hot at the right time and that all the returns are good (e.g. from the flame sensor, thermal cutout, thermostat, etc.).  If you do have a bad relay in there, it is pretty easy to replace.

-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com

[Phil H / Chicago]

Thanks Sean....I like that idea....I am going to try to borrow an extra control box from a friend who has an old one and use in my aquahot while I take mine apart to inspect and see if I can identify any problems.

Phil

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Hi Phil,

Listen for normal start-up sequences. You may have a faulty blower if you hear popping noises.

1- Main blower comes on for a 20-30 second purge.[depending on model]
2- Electrodes begin to spark [1 second]
3- Fuel selonid opens and flame begins.
4- circulator pump comes on.

Good Luck
Nick-

[bryanhes]

Phil,

The control box is not difficult to take apart. I took mine apart last year and replaced two of the relays on the board, easy fix. If anyone needs a DBW 2010 I just posted one for sale.


Bryan

[gmcbuffalo]

Phil I had a problem with my unit and it turned out to be them Temperature limiter switch under the plastic cap make user you check those out.  There is three switches under that cap.