Seat Reupholstering ?
 

Seat Reupholstering ?

Started by PP, October 29, 2010, 03:47:06 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

PP

Anyone out there that has re-upholstered their driver or passenger seat, could you give me an idea how much fabric it takes. We have the seats out of our bus right now as we put the finishing touches to the new hardwood/laminated floors (pictures will be forthcoming when I find a hotspot and not dialup) and were planning to recover them or have them done before they go back in. We're going into the city tomorrow and are planning on looking at fabric among other things while we're there. (Don't get into town that often  ;D) Any help would be greatly appreciated (literally haha).
Thanks, Will and Wife

robertglines1

the fabric store should have a chair recovering chart for home chairs tells yardage..Skirts and all probably around 3 yrd each of 54 inch wide material.alot depends on material and pattern. would make sure I had plenty..
Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana

PP

Thanks Bob. The wife has done lots of sewing, including the wheel covers on the bus, but neither of us have ever tackled anything quite this challenging. After measuring, we were also thinking about 3 yds per minimum. If we find a fabric that we like and it goes with the existing decor, we're going to get 10 yds (5 for each seat). Even if we just drape it over them that should cover them up  ;D We jumped on the flooring project and are going to try to get the seats done also while we have access to a nice heated shop complete with power tools.
Again, thank you. We are following your project Prevost also. I'm not envious yet, but will be when you're finished haha. Will

mike802

Three yards each sounds about right, but it is important to take accurate measurements, as style, shape and size will alter yardage requirements.  I like to break the measuring down into square inches and then divide your total into the total square inches in each yard of 54 inch fabric.  Also things like nap, or patterns that must be matched will have a bearing on yardage requirements.  If the fabric you choose has a 24" repeat for instance, you will loose 24" of fabric wherever the pattern has to match.   If you choose a velvet, or similar fabric the nap should run in the proper direction, or the color may look different if the nap is mismatched, the nap is like a cats fur, smooth one way. whatever the needed yardage you come up with add 20% for error and always an extra yard or two on top of that.  If you are buying close outs you may want to buy even more because you may never be able to get more.  But even if it is regular line stuff the mills are always discontinuing fabrics and die lots can not be guaranteed.  It is always better to have extra than to come up a little short and not be able to get more.  Also the extra can be used to make repairs latter if needed.

Some seats have pleats, or special features sewn into the fabric, you may need to buy a special pleating foam to duplicate this.  Some seats may also have pleating foam sewn under all the fabric, This foam is usually 1/2" thick with a special backing to hold stitches.  Make sure the fabric you buy is rated for automobile use.  You will want the extra ultra violet protection used in this fabric to get the longest life.  You will also need welt cord if you plan on having welting, or piping on your seats.  5/32" is a standard size for auto seats covered with fabric, 4/32" for vinyl or leather, fiber flex is a good choice.

I hope you have a good sewing machine, with a welt sewn into your seem you will be looking at 4 layers of fabric, not counting any pleating foam, or any listing that may be needed to attach the upholstery to the seat frame.  Some home machines have been known to be powerful enough to put a needle through this, but you also want to be able to use a good heavy thread at least #69 in nylon, dacron or preferably a thread with an automotive rating for ultra violet protection.
Mike
1983 MCI MC9
Vermont

Melbo

I am always impressed with the information that is available on this board.

Keeps me reading and posting

Melbo
If it won't go FORCE it ---- if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway
Albuquerque, NM   MC8 L10 Cummins ZF

PP

Thanks Mike. After reading the post to the wife with all the info you provided, she's having second thoughts about tackling them. I'm still convinced we can do them, but then I'm the cheap bast..... ;D
You're absolutely correct Melbo. Thanks to all the great and knowledgeable people that post here, I for one feel anything is possible, Will

robertglines1

if she needs confidence..try with old bed sheet...just jump in. If you decide to use covered buttons I have the machine and will make you some..Bob
Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana

mike802

I wont sugar coat it Will, they will be difficult, much more involved than tire covers.  I don't know your wife's sewing skills, but many woman underestimate their ability's.  If the original covers are in decent shape they can be used as a pattern.  Turn them inside out and mark everything real good before taking them apart.  If both seats are the same keep one in tack for a referral.  It is important to use the same seem allowance and if you have a good camera take pictures, lots of pictures.  When marking I like to use part A sews to part A, them make alignment marks every 3 to 4 inches to control stretching.  Make these marks before the original seat cover is taken apart and transfer them onto the new parts before they are cut out.

If your seats have pleating foam sewn to the back side of your cover you will need to first measure the old piece you are replacing, if it has curves and they will on the outside of the seat make an oversize rectangle out of the new fabric, sew this onto the pleating foam and trace the old piece onto that, adding you alignment marks, then sew around the shape you just traced and then cut it out. For the alignment marks I like to fold the fabric and snip to make darts.  Sorry if this sounds confusing, I know it does until you actually get into it, then it should make sense.  One tip, keep ink pens far far far away from your fabric.

Sid Chavers puts out some good information, he has books and videos that your wife may want to look over before she starts this project. Just google Sid Chavers.  If you have any additional questions, or she decides to go forward with the project I will be glad to help in anyway I can.  Just send me a pm.
Mike
1983 MCI MC9
Vermont

robertglines1

Mike I also appreciate your comments: have passed them on to Judy..We wish we had thousands to spend on furniture in our coach project.we build our own! total fabric cost for our new coach which includes couch 15ft long,walls and headboard and 1 chair along with trim for window pillows and valances..total cost  $842  forgot foam for couch and chair and batting 6 rolls (50%off sale at Jo Ann's) another$210..one couch 1/2 the size would have cost $1800plus..we new nothing when we started..thanks to friendly people like yourself each project is getting better.  Bob and Judy  It is also a self pride do it yourself thing for us and gets project more family involved.
Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana

akroyaleagle

Mike, I too will add my thanks for great answers.

I understand the difficulty of doing RV chairs. I have a commercial machine and a couple of recliners I need to do also.

I have reupholstered many old pickups and cars with tuck 'n' roll and diamond tuck. They are easy.

My new dash ate my lunch for 2 months!

Keep up the great answers!
Joe Laird
'78 Eagle
Sioux Falls, South Dakota

PP

Sorry it has taken so long to get back here, but with living in the coach while still finishing the floors and everything else, the laptop keeps getting moved around until I can put my desk back and get it anchored again. We made it into  town, but we didn't find any fabric that spoke to us. We did find a couple of nice rugs, however. They spoke loud and clear, at least to the Missus.  ;D. I'm still putting the finishing touches to the floor. Even though the lounge, hall, bathroom, bedroom, and closets are finished now, there is still the entrance, steps, and driver's compartment. I got one side of the entrance done before the rains got too heavy  :'( to work with the door standing open, and I finished cutting and installing all the little pieces around the pedals, steer column and shifter tower. I promise pictures will be forthcoming. In the meantime, anyone that has done wood on their floors, I'm curious how you finished out around the pedals  ???. I cut the pieces close and glued them down, and although it looks good, I'm wondering if I put more work into it than I needed to  ;D. Thanks for all the help guys, especially the offers of personal assistance and cloth buttons. Sounds good, but at this time I'm leaning towards a professional shop. The fabric on them now is worn out and stuffing showing so they are definitely not coming back into the bus.
Again thanks, and I promise to get pictures here soon, Will and Wife